Canary Islands

The outdoor lover's winter playground, the walker's paradise and the beach bum's dream come true, the Canaries offer one of the easiest escapes from a snowy European winter. Avoid the mega-resorts and have yourself a more authentic, relaxing time.

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Yes, it really is like a permanent spring in the Canary Islands, with a particularly benign climate putting a smile on your face as soon as you hit the tarmac. Mean temperatures range from 18°C (64°F) in winter to about 24°C (75°F) in summer, though daily highs often reach 35°C (95°F). On a hot day at the beach, however, it can be pleasantly cool higher up. The snow atop Teide is a clear enough reminder that, in winter, some warm clothing is essential.

Transport

Getting around

Flying isn't the cheapest way to get around but, for inter-island trips, it can be much quicker than taking a ferry. Binter (tel: 902 39 13 92; www.bintercanarias.es) connects all seven islands with regular flights. Another airline that flits between them is the modest Islas Airways (tel: 902 47 74 78; www.islasairways.com).

Biking is a pleasant way to see the sights, but don't expect drivers to accommodate you. Bike lanes in urban areas are nonexistent, although beachside boulevards generally include space for bikes.

The islands are connected by ferries, 'fast ferries', and jetfoils. There are three main companies: Naviera Armas (tel: 902 45 65 00; www.navieraarmas.com), Fred Olsen (tel: 901 10 01 07; www.fredolsen.es) and Trasmediterránea (tel: 902 45 46 45; www.trasmediterranea.com).

A bus is called a guagua, pronounced 'wa-wa'. Every island has its own interurban service. They service most of the main locations, but in many cases there are few runs each day. Tenerife and Gran Canaria have impressive public transport systems that cover the whole of each island. Frequency, however, varies enormously.

All the major international car-rental companies are represented in the Canary Islands and there are plenty of local operators too. If you intend to stay for a while, it might be worth booking a car in advance, perhaps in a fly/drive deal. Remember to pack your driving licence, which is required for any vehicle over 50cc. You need to be at least 21 and have held a driver's licence for a minimum of two years. It's easier, and with some companies obligatory, to pay with a credit card. On the road, always drive with your licence, passport and rental agreement on board.

Getting there and away

Dozens of airlines fly into the Canary Islands, and all seven islands have airports.

Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote absorb nearly all direct international flights and those from mainland Spain, while the others are principally for inter-island hops.

There are two main airports on Tenerife. Tenerife Norte (Los Rodeos) handles just about all inter-island flights and most of those to the Spanish mainland. Other scheduled flights, and virtually all charter flights to the island, are channelled to the more modern Tenerife Sur (Reina Sofía).

Gran Canaria's airport is 16km (10mi) south of Las Palmas. Lanzarote's Guasimeta airport lies a convenient 6km (3.7mi) southwest of the capital, Arrecife.

The bulk of international flights directly serving the islands are charters.

Just about everyone flies to the Canaries. The only other option (apart from a very long swim) is to take the Trasmediterránea (tel: 902 45 46 45; www.trasmediterranea.com) ferry, which carries vital supplies and cars to the islands. It sets out from Cádiz, on Spain's Mediterranean coast, every Tuesday evening. After a long and often bumpy voyage, it arrives at Las Palmas de Gran Canaria the following Thursday. From here, it proceeds to Santa Cruz de Tenerife, where it arrives by mid-afternoon. At about midnight, it sails on to Santa Cruz de La Palma, arriving on Friday morning.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

The vast majority of travellers to the Canary Islands risk little more than sunburn, hangovers and overspending. Petty theft can be a problem in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and in the big south-coast resorts of Tenerife and Gran Canaria, but with a few simple precautions you can minimise the danger. Carry valuables under your clothes and be aware of people who get unnecessarily close to you. Never leave anything visible in cars and, if possible, don't leave anything valuable in the boot (trunk). Hire cars are targeted. Take care with your belongings on the beach, and don't leave anything valuable lying around your room. Use a safe if one is available, even though you'll almost always have to pay for the convenience.

Visas overview

The Canary Islands are part of Spain, thus all rules (for passports, visas, residency etc) that are pertinent to Spain, also apply here.

Spain is part of the Schengen Convention, an agreement whereby all EU member countries (except the UK and Ireland), plus Iceland and Norway, have abolished checks at common borders for nationals of those countries included in the agreement. Residents of one Schengen country do not require a visa for another such country. In addition, nationals of a number of other states, including the UK, Canada, Ireland, Japan, New Zealand and Switzerland, do not require visas for tourist visits of up to 90 days to any Schengen country. Various other nationals not covered by the Schengen exemption can also spend up to 90 days in Spain without a visa. These include citizens of Australia, Israel and the US. If you are from a country not mentioned in this list, you should check with a Spanish consulate as to whether you need a visa.