Cape Verde

Many know Cape Verde only through the haunting mornos of the 'barefoot diva'. To visit her homeland - a series of unlikely volcanic islands off the coast of Senegal - is to understand the strange, bittersweet amalgam of West African rhythms and mournful Portuguese melodies that shape her music.

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Cape Verde is pleasant year-round. Even during the so-called rainy season from mid-August to mid-October, weeks can go by without a downpour. Thanks to cooling ocean currents and offshore winds, Cape Verde has the lowest temperatures of any country in West Africa, and also some of the most moderate, ranging from a minimum night-time average of 19°C (66°F) in February to a maximum daytime average of 29°C (84°F) from May to November.

Summer temperatures, especially in the northern islands, can be cooler than in Europe, though the southern islands, especially Fogo, can get hot and sticky. From December to March you may need a sweater in the evenings, especially at higher altitudes. Winter months are also marked by gusty winds, which blow in dust all the way from the Sahara.

Transport

Getting around

There's a network of expensive internal flights between all inhabited islands except Brava; between Praia, Mindelo and Sal there are flights at least once daily. Cash is the only certain method of payment at TACV offices. There are also regular ferry services between islands, though schedules can be unpredictable. Polar (tel: 2615 223) runs most of these.

It's only really worth hiring a car on Santiago, Boa Vista and Fogo; Alucar (Praia tel: 2615 801; São Vicente tel: 2325 194) is the largest local operator. You'll need an international licence and should ask for a 4WD. Public transport on the islands is by aluguers, minibuses or trucks that collect passengers at unmarked stops (ask a local) and drop them wherever they like along the route. Taxis are generally cheap and plentiful in major towns, but expeditions further afield will cost you.

Getting there and away

Flying is the only realistic option for getting to and from Cape Verde. There are infrequent sea services, but they'll probably end up costing as much as a plane ticket. There are regular flights from Lisbon and less frequent flights from other European centres, including Amsterdam, Madrid, Munich and Paris.

Most flights land on Sal, although traffic through Praia is increasing. TACV, Air Sénégal and South African Airways run services from African and North American destinations, including Boston, New York, Atlanta, Johannesburg and Dakar.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Cape Verde is one of the most settled and peaceful places in Africa; the likelihood of falling victim to crime here is extremely low. Theft is always a possibility, however, particularly in crowded areas, on public transport, from hotels or in popular tourist spots. Travellers are advised to keep a close eye on all property, not to keep all valuables in the one place, to use reliable hotel safes for indispensable travel documents and to always lock cars, keeping all baggage out of sight.

Visas overview

All visitors need visas to enter Cape Verde.