Colombia

Vibrant cities with soaring skyscrapers, elegant port towns cut by cobbled alleys and bougainvillea-shrouded balconies, spectacular national parks from tropical to heavenly-high-alpine, cruise boats, party buses, late-night salsa dancing and glorious shopping. This is Colombia we're talking about!

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Colombia's proximity to the equator means its temperature varies little throughout the year. However, the temperature does change with altitude, which creates various climatic zones ranging from hot lowlands to freezing Andean peaks - you can experience completely different climates within just a couple of hours of travel. As a general rule, the temperature falls about 6ºC (43ºF) with every 1000m (3281ft) increase in altitude.

Colombia has two seasons: verano or la sequia (summer, or dry), and invierno or temproada de lluvia (winter, or wet). The pattern of seasons varies in different parts of the country, and has been greatly affected over recent years by El Niño and La Niña. For example, in the Andean region there are two dry and two rainy seasons per year. The main dry season falls between December and March, with a shorter and less dry period between July and August. This general pattern varies throughout the Andean zone.

The weather in Los Llanos has a more definite pattern: there is one dry season, between December and March, while the rest of the year it's wet. The Amazon doesn't have a uniform climate but is generally quite wet year-round.

Transport

Getting around

Avianca is Colombia's flagship airline. Others include AeroRebública, Aires and Satena. Fares can be high but newer airlines offer cheap promotions. Reconfirm your booking 72 hours in advance. There's an airport tax on domestic flights.

Although buses are slow and crowded, they provide the main form of transport and are cheap, efficient and extensive.

Taxis are good value and can be chartered for long trips.

Car and motorcycle travel can be expensive and dangerous, with theft the main problem.

Water transport is irregular and primitive.

When visiting Bogotá, use TransMilenio - a fast urban bus service.

In Medellín, use the city's high-speed metro.

Cycling isn't easy in Colombia. Road rules favor drivers and you'll fight traffic on main roads. However, most roads are paved and security is improving. Bike rentals are uncommon but you can buy one almost anywhere.

For something different, try a chiva (an old-style, wooden bus) or collectivo (a cross between a bus and taxi).

Getting there and away

Colombia has good and relatively cheap air links with Europe and North America. Most visitors use Colombia's major international airport in Bogotá - others include Cartagena, Barranquilla, Medellín, Cali and San Andrés. Departure tax is usually included in the cost of the flight.

There are road connections with Venezuela and Ecuador only, which are popular and easy. It's now also possible to cross the border to Panama on a small ferry that skirts the shore. You can't continue by land into Panama, though; the only option is to take a plane from there to Panama City. Travelers planning to cross at Arauca-El Amparo de Apure or Puerto Carreño-Puerto Páez should consult their embassy for security information.

Ports on the Pacific and Caribbean coasts make it possible to arrive or leave by boat. Sea traffic is busier on the Caribbean side: ports there include Baranquilla, Cartagena, Santa Marta and Turbo; its major Pacific port is Buenaventura.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Theft is the most common danger and is more serious in the larger cities. In crowded areas watch out for bag-snatching, pickpocketing, or distraction by a team of thieves. Be careful when drawing cash from an ATM - some cases of robbery have been reported. It's not a bad idea to carry a decoy bundle of small notes ready to hand over in case of an assault. If you are accosted by robbers, it's best to give them what they're after, but play it cool and don't rush to hand them all your valuables - they may well be satisfied with your decoy.

Although drugs - including cocaine and marijuana - are widely available in Colombia, never carry or buy them. The vendors may well be setting you up for the police or for extortion. The burundanga is a drug obtained from a species of tree that is widespread in Colombia and is used by thieves to render a victim unconscious. It can be put into sweets, cigarettes, chewing gum, spirits, beer - virtually any kind of food or drink - and it doesn't have any particular taste or odor. The main effects are loss of will and memory, and sleepiness lasting from a few hours to several days. Think twice before accepting a cigarette from a stranger or a drink from a new 'friend'.

Visas overview

Nationals of some countries, including most of Western Europe, the Americas, Japan, Australia and New Zealand, don't need a visa to enter Colombia. It's a good idea to check this before leaving, though, as visa regulations change frequently. All visitors get an entry stamp or a print in their passport from DAS (the security police responsible for immigration) upon arrival at any international airport or land border crossing - it says how many days you can stay in the country. The maximum allowed is 90 days, but DAS officials often stamp 60 or even just 30 days. Make sure you get an entry stamp or you'll have troubles later. Official money changers and banks will want to see your entry stamp, as will police if there are any problems. When departing the country, you'll also have to pay a fine and get a salvoconducto from a DAS office if you don't have a stamp. Similarly, make sure you have a departure stamp oryou'll have trouble the next time around.

You're entitled to a 30-day extension on your stay, which can be obtained from DAS in any departmental capital. The additional 30 days begin from the end of the visa already stamped in your passport (so there's no need to wait to the last minute). Most travelers apply for an extension in Bogotá.