Ecuador

While Quito wins on grandeur, Cuenca takes the cake for beauty. Founded by the Spanish in 1557, Ecuador's third-largest city is the colonial jewel of the south. Red-tiled buildings, handsome plazas and domed churches line cobblestoned streets - all above the grassy banks of the Río Tomebamba.

Before the 20th century

Cuenca's full name is 'Santa Ana de los cuatro ríos de Cuenca', named after the four rivers in the surrounding mountains.

The first inhabitants of the area date back to 8060 BC in the Cave of Chopsi. These people were nomadic hunters. Tools indicating their existence such as arrows and spears have been found throughout the Andean valley.

Cuenca is thought to have been founded around AD 500. Originally a Cañari settlement called Guapondeleg ('land as big as heaven'), the Incas conquered the Cañari after a bitter struggle and occupied the settlement. While they replaced Cañari architecture with their own, they refrained from suppressing the Cañari people. Instead, the Incas absorbed the Cañari's achievements in astronomy and agriculture into their own culture. The powerful Inca commander, Tupac-Yupanqui, soon ordered the construction of a major city at the site of present-day Cuenca. Its splendor and importance were to rival that of the imperial capital, Cuzco. The indigenous people told of sun temples covered with gold sheets and palaces built using the most skilled cuzqueño (Cuzcan) stonemasons. But what happened to Tomebamba, as it was called, is shrouded in mystery.

By the time Spanish chronicler Cieza de León passed through in 1547, Tomebamba lay largely in ruins and was sparsely populated. The Cuenca that exists today was founded in 1557 by Spanish explorer, Gil Ramírez Dávalos. The city achieved its independence on November 3, 1820. It grew steadily in importance during the colonial era, soon becoming the capital of one of three provinces that made up the nascent republic; the other two capitals were Guayaquil and Quito.

Modern history

During the 20th century, Cuenca prospered both economically and socially. Universities, industry and tourism expanded the city's population. Major exports included quinine and straw, while its cultural heritage was confirmed by the large number of writers, philosophers and artists to call the city home. In 1985, Cuenca's old cathedral (El Sagrario) was given a facelift in anticipation of a visit by Pope John Paul II to Ecuador.

Recent history

In 1999, Cuenca was honored by Unesco, which declared its historic center a World Cultural Heritage Site.

Since the economic crisis of 1999, many of Cuenca's people have chosen to migrate. Mamá Kinua's Cultural Tours operates trips to the indigenous community of Tarqui, a short distance outside Cuenca's center. All the money raised helps fund a health center and provides people with economic alternatives to migration. Cuenca's economy is currently based on industry and agricultural development.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Cuenca's high altitude means it's generally cool. The climate stays pretty much the same all year with average night-time temperatures lurking around 9°C (48.2°F) and the mercury climbing to about 19°C (66.2°F) during the day. The only two real seasons are the rainy season and the dry season. The highland dry season is between June and September while the rainy season falls between October and May - the latter can be on the chilly side, but it generally brings several hours of morning sunshine.

Average weather

• Temperature
• Rainfall

Transport

Getting around

It's easy to grab a taxi between the city center and either the airport or the bus terminal. From the front of the bus terminal, buses also depart regularly to the center. To get to the bus terminal from the center, you can use the bus stop on Padre Aguirre near the flower market. Most buses are clearly marked.

Local buses for Turi, 4km (2.5mi) south of the center, go along Av Solano.

Getting there and away

Cuenca's Aeropuerto Mariscal Lamar (tel: 286 2203; An España) is located 2km (1.2mi) from the city center. TAME flies daily to Quito and Guayaquil. Icaro also flies to both destinations.

Located about 1.5km (0.9mi) from the city center, Cuenca's bus terminal (tel: 284 3888; Av España) is served by dozens of companies. There are daily buses to Ingapirca, Jima, Gualaceo, Chordeleg and Sígsig. Buses to Parque Nacional Cajas leave from the Transporte Occidental stop, west of the center. There are two routes to Guayaquil: via Parque Nacional Cajas and Molleturo (3.5-4hr), and via La Troncal and Cañar (5.5hr). Buses leave hourly for Machala (4hr); a few continue to Huaquillas (7hr). Buses for Azogues (45min) leave frequently; many continue to Cañar (1.5hr) and Alausí (4hr). For Quito, there are buses every hour. There are several daily departures to Riobamba (6hr), Ambato (7hr) and Latacunga (8.5hr). Buses leave every hour to Loja (5hr) via Saraguro (3.5hr). For the southern Oriente, daily buses go to Macas via Guarumales (8hr) or via Limón (10hr). There are two daily departures with Cooperativa 16 de Agosto to Guayaquiza (6hr) along the rough and scenic road via Sígsig.

For car rental try Localiza, which has a branch at the airport and another a few hundred meters northeast of the airport.