El Salvador

Its name still evokes images of the brutal civil war fought throughout the 1980s, but the bloodshed is long over - the volcanic landscape remains the most turbulent aspect of El Salvador. Friendly locals like to chat, diverting your gaze from the gangs and refugees to beautiful broad valleys.

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This diminutive nation bakes, with year-round temperatures surfing from around 32°C (89°F) during the day and dropping to around a cozy 19°C (66°F) at night. The coastal lowlands are the hottest region. While the dry season peaks in summer, the middle months experience quite heavy rainfall. During the rainy season, it usually only rains at night.

Transport

Getting there and away

El Salvador's international airport, Aeropuero Internacional Comalapa, is 44km (27mi) southeast of San Salvador. The following airlines fly to/from San Salvador: TACA, American, Continental, Copa and Delta. There's a 30.00 departure tax.

It's a 45min drive to San Salvador. Catch a taxi or a colectivo van.

There are three first-class international bus lines plus a number of second-class lines, but they're not as safe or comfortable. In San Salvador, they leave from Terminal Puerto Bus.

There are four border crossings to Guatemala and three border crossings to Honduras, where a token departure tax is payable. Take a connecting microbus from Honduras to the Nicaraguan border. There's also a once-daily service to Costa Rica. From here, you can continue to Panama City or to the Mexican border.

When driving into El Salvador, show a license (international permits are accepted) and proof you own the car. To stay longer than 30 days, leave the country and drive back in.

Getting around

There is no regular domestic air service in El Salvador.

Take a boat around the Bahía de Jiquilisco. A passenger boat and car ferry travel across Lago Suchitlán.

The intercity bus service uses old American school buses painted in wild colors - terminals are chaotic and dirty. Information is rarely posted, but other passengers can point you in the right direction. Purchase your ticket onboard. Buses run frequently and are cheap. Services begin 04:00-05:00 and end 18:00-19:00.

By car, unmarked areas are frustrating. Gas can be found even in the smallest villages, but it's not cheap. Car insurance is available, but not required. There are car rental agencies in San Salvador. Drive on the right. Carjackings and theft are not common, but use common sense. Watch out for the locals' erratic driving habits and animals grazing on the road.

Taxi fares are negotiable.

If you're hitching, it's customary to give (or at least offer) a small payment.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Crime shouldn't deter travelers from El Salvador any more than it does from the rest of Central America. Be aware of pick-pockets on buses and crowded streets. Take common-sense precautions: carry as little as possible on day trips, avoid toting expensive backpacks, cameras, watches and jewelry. The more your clothing and travel gear blend in with the locals, the less chance of being targeted. Before traveling, make copies of your credit cards and important documents; carry a copy with you and leave one with someone at home who could fax them through in a pinch. After dark, take a taxi, even if the rates are a little steep. This is particularly important in San Salvador, San Miguel, Sonsonate, La Unión and La Libertad.

Most volcano climbs are best done with a police escort, partly for your safety and partly so you don't get lost on unmarked and intersecting trails. The service is free, but you must request it by phone or in person a day in advance (and preferably more). Officers are friendly and trustworthy.

Attacks on tourists are rare, but violence does occur. El Salvador has a disturbingly high murder rate: there are between 9 and 11 violent deaths daily. The vast majority of perpetrators or victims are gang-affiliated. Two major maras (gangs) operate in the country. Travelers are unlikely to encounter gang members since groups concentrate in neighborhoods with no outside appeal - the police also control most tourist areas. Still, visitors should avoid traveling at night. Guns and weapons are widespread, so never resist a robbery - it's not worth it.

Visas overview

Citizens of the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Switzerland, Norway, Japan, Taiwan, Brazil, Argentina, Mexico, other Central American countries, Israel, UK and EU member countries do not need a visa. However, you must purchase a single-entry tourist card (10.00) when entering the country. The standard length of stay is 30 days, but you can request up to 90 days - do so quickly before the official stamps your passport! If you leave and return within the allotted time, you can use the same tourist card. You are technically required to have a return or onward ticket, but this is rarely checked. Note that the Salvadoran tourist card is a large sticker which takes up a full page of your passport - be sure you have plenty of free space! For those who do need a pre-arranged visa, the cost is 30.00.

The new Central America-4 agreement allows for travel between the borders of Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua with one entry fee and one passport stamp (in this case, be sure you ask for the 90-day option). If you are traveling overland, please note the change; you do not have to pay for another tourist card. It's possible you will have to 'remind' some border guards about the agreement. The provision is relatively new (and few tourists make use of it) so the officers may be simply unaware of the rule.