El Salvador: health and legal

Dangers and annoyances

Crime shouldn't deter travelers from El Salvador any more than it does from the rest of Central America. Be aware of pick-pockets on buses and crowded streets. Take common-sense precautions: carry as little as possible on day trips, avoid toting expensive backpacks, cameras, watches and jewelry. The more your clothing and travel gear blend in with the locals, the less chance of being targeted. Before traveling, make copies of your credit cards and important documents; carry a copy with you and leave one with someone at home who could fax them through in a pinch. After dark, take a taxi, even if the rates are a little steep. This is particularly important in San Salvador, San Miguel, Sonsonate, La Unión and La Libertad.

Most volcano climbs are best done with a police escort, partly for your safety and partly so you don't get lost on unmarked and intersecting trails. The service is free, but you must request it by phone or in person a day in advance (and preferably more). Officers are friendly and trustworthy.

Attacks on tourists are rare, but violence does occur. El Salvador has a disturbingly high murder rate: there are between 9 and 11 violent deaths daily. The vast majority of perpetrators or victims are gang-affiliated. Two major maras (gangs) operate in the country. Travelers are unlikely to encounter gang members since groups concentrate in neighborhoods with no outside appeal - the police also control most tourist areas. Still, visitors should avoid traveling at night. Guns and weapons are widespread, so never resist a robbery - it's not worth it.

Visas overview

Citizens of the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Switzerland, Norway, Japan, Taiwan, Brazil, Argentina, Mexico, other Central American countries, Israel, UK and EU member countries do not need a visa. However, you must purchase a single-entry tourist card (10.00) when entering the country. The standard length of stay is 30 days, but you can request up to 90 days - do so quickly before the official stamps your passport! If you leave and return within the allotted time, you can use the same tourist card. You are technically required to have a return or onward ticket, but this is rarely checked. Note that the Salvadoran tourist card is a large sticker which takes up a full page of your passport - be sure you have plenty of free space! For those who do need a pre-arranged visa, the cost is 30.00.

The new Central America-4 agreement allows for travel between the borders of Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador and Nicaragua with one entry fee and one passport stamp (in this case, be sure you ask for the 90-day option). If you are traveling overland, please note the change; you do not have to pay for another tourist card. It's possible you will have to 'remind' some border guards about the agreement. The provision is relatively new (and few tourists make use of it) so the officers may be simply unaware of the rule.