France

Founded in the 11th century by William the Conqueror, Caen, capital of Basse Normandie, has taken a beating over the centuries. But the bombing and burning hasn't stopped it from being a thriving university city and excellent base for exploring the D-Day beaches and nearby Bayeux.

Before the 20th century

Founded in the 11th century by William the Conqueror, Caen was subsequently sacked and torched on 26 July 1346 by invading English armies, who killed 3000 of the town's residents. King Edward III led the invasion, hoping to loot what was at the time the richest town in Normandy. In the process, a copy of the 1339 Franco-Norman plan to invade England was found; this came in handy for propaganda purposes and to keep the funds to finance the war flowing. The English again took the town in 1417 and held it until 1450. The Wars of Religion caused Caen more suffering, and it fell to the Protestants in 1562. During the French Revolution, the town was a centre for the Girondins, a group of moderate republican politicians, many of whom were subsequently executed during the Reign of Terror.

The 19th-century construction of a canal, which parallels the Orne River and enters the English Channel at Ouistreham, opened up Caen. The city became an important port, largely importing coke and exporting steel.

Modern history

Six centuries after the city was ransacked by invading English armies, Caen's old town was levelled once more during the shattering bombardments of the WWII Normandy campaign. The city was bombed and set ablaze on D-Day, and by the time it was liberated by Canadian troops on 9 July 1944, over 80% of the city had been razed to rubble. During the battle, many Caen residents took refuge in the Abbaye aux Hommes, built by William the Conqueror so many centuries before.

The abbey along with its feminine counterpart, the Abbaye aux Dames, and the ramparts around the chateau, are practically all that remains of old Caen. The rest of the city was rebuilt in a typically utilitarian postwar style, using plenty of concrete and pale stone; as such, unlike Rouen, Bayeux and other towns in the region, Caen doesn't have a traditional Normandy feel.

Throughout the 20th century Caen developed into a major commercial and industrial centre, with a thermal power station and extensive steelworks along the Orne River, and manufacturing industries producing car parts, electronics, pharmaceuticals, chemicals and paper. Its university, founded in 1432 by Henry VI of England and central to the city's identity, was re-sited after war damage and reopened in 1957.

Caen's Museum for Peace was opened in the late 1980s. It gives an excellent overview of Europe's descent into total war, tracing events from the end of WWI and the Treaty of Versailles, through the rise of fascism in Europe and the French occupation, right up to the Battle of Normandy. Another section of the museum focuses on the Cold War and the prospects for world peace. And there's an underground gallery, located in bunkers used by the Germans during the battle for Caen in 1944, dedicated to winners of the Nobel Peace Prize - all very fitting for a city that's been in the wars.

Recent history

Caen continues to be a busy university city and commercial centre into the 21st century. Tourism is playing its part, too, as people increasingly use the city as a base for exploring nearby D-Day beaches and Bayeux. The plans to introduce a new ferry between Portsmouth, England and Caen/Ouistreham in 2009 will no doubt provide a further boost to tourism.

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Like other towns in the northwest region of France, Caen can get whipped by strong westerly winds and is prone to high humidity. It's also quite a foggy place. Summers are mild to cool: average temperatures range from 11-21°C (52-70°F) and the mercury rarely rises above 30°C (86°F). The occasional thunderstorm also hits the city during spring and summer. Average winter temperatures range from 2-8°C (36-46°F), dipping below 0°C (32°F) fairly regularly. Rainfall is steady throughout the year, although it's heaviest in autumn.

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Transport

Getting around

CTAC (www.twisto.fr) runs several of the city's efficient buses. In recent years Caen introduced a controversial 'guided light transit' (GLT) system - similar to a tram and thought unnecessary by much of the population during their construction. Lines run from the train station via the city centre and place St-Pierre, outside the tourist office. Opt for a value 24hr ticket over a single fare if you'll be using the system a bit.

For taxis call either 02 31 26 62 00 or 02 31 52 17 89.

Caen's modern heart is easy to navigate on foot. Avenue du 6 Juin links the centre, at the southern end of the chateau, with the canal and train station to the southeast.

Getting there and away

Caen-Carpiquet Airport (02 31 71 20 10) is 5km (3.1mi) west of the city. Regular services, mainly offered by Brit Air and Chalair Aviation, fly to several French cities via Lyon; the only regular UK destination is Manchester. Call 02 31 52 17 89 for a taxi from the airport to town centre. Brittany Ferries (www.brittanyferries.com) sail from Ouistreham, 14km (8.7mi) northeast of Caen, to Portsmouth, England (6hr, two to four daily).

Bus Verts (08 10 21 42 14) serves destinations including Bayeux (1hr, three daily, Mon-Fri), Courselles-sur-Mer (30min, hourly, five Sun), Deauville-Trouville (1.25hr, hourly) and the ferry port at Ouistreham (25min, six daily, Mon-Sat; one Sun). It also runs daily buses to Le Havre (1.5-2.5hr, four to seven daily). Most buses stop at Caen's bus station and place Courtonne. When leaving or arriving in Caen by bus, your ticket will be valid for public transport to or from the bus station.

The A13, a toll road, connects Caen with Paris, while the toll-free A84 will get you into Brittany. Car rental places - mostly by the train station - include Hertz, Europcar, Avis and ADA.

Caen is on the Paris-Cherbourg train line. There are regular services to Paris' Gare St-Lazare (2.5hr, 10 direct daily), Bayeux (20min, 18-20 daily), Cherbourg (3.25hr, 12 daily), Pontorson (2.5hr, nine or 10 daily) and Rouen (2hr, six to 10 daily). Visit the SNCF Boutique (8 rue St-Pierre) for information and reservations.