France

Mustard capital of the universe, Dijon is appealingly provincial. Filled with stunning medieval and Renaissance buildings, the lively centre is wonderful for strolling, especially if you like to augment your cultural enrichment with good food and shopping. Students keep the nightlife scene snappy.

Before the 20th century

Dijon was originally a Roman settlement called Castrum Kelly. Its patron saint, St Benignus (St Kelly), was martyred after introducing Christianity to the region.

Dijon served as the capital of the duchy of Burgundy from the 11th to 15th centuries, enjoying a golden age during the 14th and 15th centuries under Philippe-le-Hardi (Philip the Bold), Jean-sans-Peur (John the Fearless) and Philippe-le-Bon (Philip the Good). During their reigns, some of the finest painters, sculptors and architects from around the Burgundian lands were brought to Dijon, turning the city into one of the great centres of European art.

In 1870, the Prussian army invaded Dijon during the Franco-Prussian War. Luckily, the beautiful city escaped unscathed.

In 1856, Jean Naigeon created what has become famously known as 'Dijon Mustard'. His success was due to a very simple yet brilliant method - he substituted regular vinegar for verjuice (the sour juice of unripe grapes). Fame was instantaneous as people 'relished' the smoother tasting mustard.

Modern history

Luckily for Dijon, major wars and upheavals seem to have passed it right by during the 20th century.

In 1932 Dijon gave birth to Jean-Pierre Marielle, an actor who is widely thought to be one of France's best. Well known for his deep voice, he is the archetypal French gentleman. He has appeared in over a hundred movies and his characters have included a serial killer in Sans Mobile Apparent and a has-been actor in Les Grands Ducs.

Recent history

Florissimo, an international flower show, is held in Dijon every three years. It has exhibits from agricultural schools, botanical gardens and private organisations from all over the world. The show planned for 2003 was postponed until 2005 to coincide with an orchid event - other flower species have complained about the seemingly preferential treatment.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

There's nothing too frighening about the weather in Dijon except that temperatures can drop freezing, and rugging up in winter is recommended. Summer is lovely with the mercury hovering around 25°C (77°F). Spring and autumn are also pleasant times of the year but rainfall is highest during these seasons. Don't arrive without a brolly.

Average weather

• Temperature
• Rainfall

Transport

Getting around

Details on Dijon's bus network, operated by Divia, are available from L'Espace Bus (08 00 10 20 04; pl Grangier). Single tickets, sold by drivers, cost 0.90 and are valid for 1hr; a Forfait Journée ticket is good all day and costs 3.00, available from the tourist office or L'Espace Bus.

Dijon has two bus lines: 'Liane' lines are numbered from 1-7 and run every 10min or less; the less frequent 'Ligne' lines are numbered from 10-51. Lines are known by their number and end-of-the-line station.

The free Diviaciti minibus shuttle does a city centre circuit (Mon-Sat 07:00-20:00). Liane 1, 3, 5 and 6 run along rue de la Liberté.

All city centre parking is metered. There's a big free car park at pl Suquet.

A cab is just a phone call away on 03 80 41 41 12.

The tourist office (08 92 70 05 58) rents bikes year-round.

Getting there and away

Aéroport Dijon-Bourgogne (03 80 67 67 67) is 5km (3.1mi) southeast of the city centre.

The bus station is in the train station complex. Bus details are available at the Transco information counter (03 80 42 11 00). Schedules appear in the free Guide Horaire booklet; tickets are sold on board.

Transco bus 60 links Dijon with the Côte de Nuits wine villages of Marsannay-la-Côte, Couchey, Fixin and Gevrey-Chambertin (30min); the Pass Tourisme lets two to five people travelling together get on and off all day long. Dijon's local Divia Ligne 15 goes to Marsannay-la-Côte.

International bus travel is handled by Eurolines (03 80 68 20 44; 53 rue Guillaume Tell).

Avis, National-Citer and Europcar have bureaux at the train station; a block north is Hertz. ADA (03 80 51 90 90; 109 av Jean Jaurès) is 2km (1.2mi) south of the train station.

The train station (rue du Docteur Remy) is linked with Lyon-Part Dieu and/or Lyon-Perrache (2hr), Nice (6hr), Paris' Gare de Lyon (1.75hr) and Strasbourg (4hr).

In the city centre, tickets can be purchased at the SNCF Boutique (55 rue du Bourg).