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The cosmopolitan port of Marseille (sometimes known as 'Marseilles') is not only France's oldest city but one of its proudest. From its groundbreaking rap music to its ubiquitous football team, from its ancient traditions to its modern and dynamic cultural life, this is truly a city like no other.
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A Perfect Day
By Emilie Filou
I start the day with brunch at Pain & Cie. It's a tad pretentious, but just off cours Estienne d'Orves and the Vieux Port, and I like my breakfast! After filling up on goodies, I make my way to the historic Le Panier quarter, on the other side of the Vieux Port. There are some irresistible shops there such as La Compagnie de Provence and 72% Pétanque, which sell divine soaps and tasty local products. Then I pop into the Centre de la Vieille Charité museum, a stunning building that houses great archeological and ethnological collections.
Depending on budget and hunger, lunch is either at Madie Les Galinettes on the quayside or a picnic in Le Jardin du Pharo on the other side of the Vieux Port. Views here take in the Vieux Port, the ferry port, the Château d'If and neighbouring Frioul Islands; it's incredibly atmospheric.
In the afternoon, heat permitting, I cycle along the corniche with one of the city's vélo (bicycles you can pick up and drop off at about 100 sites across Marseille) to the Parc Balnéaire du Prado, with a stop at the infinitely pretty Vallon des Auffes. If the heat is too much to bear, bus 83 will do the job instead. There are some nice beaches there and I spend the rest of the afternoon alternating swimming with sizzling.
As for dinner, if money is no issue, I head straight to Péron for sundowners and the most idyllic dinner with sea views on the wooden deck terrace. And if I have to be reasonable, I go to Chez Jeannot in the Vallon des Auffes and book a rooftop table (summer option), or spend the night at La Part des Anges, a fabulous gourmet wine bar that serves knock out food and wine (great winter option).
There is no special time of year to visit Marseille as the city is good for tourism throughout the year. Even in January and February, it is possible to dine outdoors if the sun is shining. Spring and autumn are probably the most pleasant times of year. Temperatures remain mild into November. It is hot in the summer, but rarely unbearable thanks to the sea and the fresh mistral wind.
Average weather
Transport
Getting there and away
The Marseille-Provence international airport is 28km (17.5mi) northwest of Marseille in the town of Marignane. It's served by direct flights from 80 destinations, including most French airports and European cities, Algeria, Morocco, Tunisia, Egypt and Gabon. Air France is the major carrier, followed by Air Littoral and Air Liberté. The Paris-Marseille flight is Air France's most popular domestic route, and takes just one hour and 15 minutes.
The high-speed TGV Méditerranée Paris-Marseille line opened in June 2001, slashing the rail journey to a mere three hours and making it possible to cover the London-Marseille distance in just under seven hours. Regional trains run from Marseille to Aix-en-Provence, Nîmes, Arles, Orange, Avignon, Toulon, St-Raphaël, Cannes, Antibes, Nice, Monaco and Menton.
Long-distance buses head to Marseille from points all over Western and Central Europe, Scandinavia and Morocco. French inter-regional bus transport is extremely limited, however, due to government policy favouring the state-run rail system. Marseille has provincial bus connections with towns such as Aix-en-Provence, Avignon, Arles, Cassis, Digne-les-Bains and Carpentras.
The main southbound road route from Paris is the A6 to Lyons and A7 Autoroute du Soleil; Paris is 782km (484mi) from Marseille. The A8 heads east from Marseilles to Nice and beyond into Italy, where it becomes the A10. Ferries link Marseille with Spain, Corsica, Sardinia, Tunisia and Algeria.
fast facts
| Full name | Marseilles |
|---|---|
| Currency | Euro, EUR (€) |
| Population | 798430 |
| Languages |
Catalan (other) French (official) Basque (other) Breton (other) Corsican (other) |
| Time zone(s) | GMT/UTC: +1 |
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