France

Divine golden-limestone neoclassical buildings glow in contrast with stern grey Gothic, the red Romantic and the very, very latest architectural wonder, the new Pompidou. Gorgeous by day and glorious by night, the best way to see popular Metz is off-peak on a very long, very leisurely walk.

Before the 20th century

The name Metz derives from its first inhabitants, a Celtic tribe named the Mediomatrici - during their stint, the town was called Divodurum. Its position at the junction of several roads helped it become one of the principal towns of Gaul, and the Romans occupied it from the 1st century BC until the 5th century AD, using it as a military post.

Christianity came to the town in the 3rd century and it became a bishopric during the 4th century. The town was fortified during this century to ward off marauding Goths from the east. In 451 Metz was captured by Attila and plundered by his Huns. Toward the end of the 5th century, through peaceful negotiations, Metz came under the control of the 'long-haired kings', the Merovingian Franks.

In the 6th century they made it the capital of the Austrasia kingdom. Metz remained a part of the Carolingian Empire until 843 when the empire was divided among the three grandsons of Charlemagne. It then became the capital of Lotharingia, under King Lothar, after whom the region Lorraine is named. After the death of Lothar II, control of the territory went back and forth between eastern and western Francia until coming under the Holy Roman Empire. In the 12th century, after the burgesses gradually campaigned and attained more freedom, Metz was a prosperous, free city in the Holy Roman Empire.

Metz became a stronghold of Protestantism during the Reformation. In 1552 Henry II of France (a Catholic) was asked and consented to protect the town. In return Emperor Charles V attacked the city from October 1552 to January 1553; Metz defended itself admirably. In 1648, Metz, along with Toul and Verdun (the territory of the three imperial bishoprics), was ceded to France under the Treaty of Westphalia and Metz set about heavily fortifying itself. In 1790 when the French National Assembly divided the land into districts, Metz became the capital of Moselle.

During the Franco-Prussian War, Metz was under siege for two months and eventually surrendered to the Germans. Under the Treaty of Frankfurt (1871), Metz became part of Germany.

Modern history

At the conclusion of WWI, Metz was returned to France by the Treaty of Versailles in 1919. During WWII, Metz was occupied once more by the Germans from 1940 to 1944. Metz was extensively rebuilt and extended after both wars.

In 1971 the University of Metz was founded. Today it has three campuses and 15,000 students.

Recent history

Today Metz is known for its communication and technology industries and is a centre for the production of cars, mechanical equipment, electricals, cement, leathergoods, and food and tobacco products.

'The Green City' refers to the large number of public parks and gardens in Metz - an impressive 25 square metres per person!

Every other year, Metz hosts Europe's largest hot air balloon festival; marvel at in excess of 400 balloons taking to the skies. A new annual men's tennis competition, the Moselle Open (Open de Moselle, www.opendemoselle.com) commenced in October 2003.

In an eagerly awaited landmark cultural event, the Centre Pompidou-Metz (www.centrepompidou-metz.com) will open in 2008 in the recently transformed Amphitheatre district in Metz. The plans show a unique and striking building, designed by Shigeru Ban and Jean de Gastines, with three galleries and a 77m spire. Its large draped skirt of a roof is based on the hexagonal weave of a Chinese bamboo hat.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

The Lorraine region has a semi-continental climate, which means in Metz, summers can be hot. Temperatures usually average a pleasant 22-24°C (71-75°F). Winter days sit just above zero (32°F), but can occasionally become quite bleak and frigid. Even in May and October it dips below zero a couple of days in each month. Rainfall is consistent throughout the year.

Average weather

• Temperature
• Rainfall

Transport

Getting there and away

Metz is on the A4, which links Paris and Reims with Strasbourg, and on the A31 from Dijon to Luxembourg.

Launched on 10 June 2007, the new TGV Est Europeen (www.tgv.com) connects Metz with Paris in just 80 minutes. Metz's train station (place du Général de Gaulle), spiffed up for the TGV, is on the line linking Paris' Gare de l'Est (3hr) with Luxembourg (50min). About 50 direct trains a day go to Nancy (40-60min), and a few to Strasbourg (1.25-1.75hr) and Verdun (1.25hr). You can also travel direct to Frankfurt and Stuttgart in just over 2 hours.

Getting around

For car rentals, try Europcar (tel: 03 87 62 26 12) or National-Citer (tel: 03 87 38 09 99), both found in the train station's arrival hall.

For a taxi, call Radio Taxis de Metz (tel: 03 87 56 91 92).

TCRM (www.tcrm-metz.fr) runs many bus services in Metz and surrounds. All bus lines pass through place de la Republique.

Bikes can be hired for 5 a day from Railway Station and rue d'Estrées.