France

More and more people are flocking to Montpellier, charmed by its historic central district and its vibrant cultural scene. Studying in the sun, drinks on the Place de la Comédie, daydreams in the shadow of grand old mansions - and all a volleyball toss from the beach.

Before the 20th century

Montpellier sits on the plain of Bas-Languedoc (Lower Languedoc). Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Visigoths and Moors all passed through Languedoc before it came under Frankish control in the 8th century. The Franks were happy to leave affairs in the hands of local rulers and around the 12th century Occitania (today's Languedoc) reached its zenith. At the time, Occitan was the language of the troubadours and the cultured speech of southern France. However, the Albigensian Crusade, launched in 1208 to suppress the 'heresy' of Catharism, led to Languedoc's annexation by the French kingdom. The treaty of Villers-Cotterêts (1539), which made langue d'oïl the realm's official language, downgraded Occitan. Continuing to be spoken in the south, it enjoyed a literary revival in the 19th century, spearheaded by the poet Frédéric Mistral, and is nowadays more often called Provençal.

Montpellier is one of the few cities in southern France without a Roman heritage. Founded by the Counts of Toulouse, it's first mentioned in a written document in 985. By medieval times, it had become a prosperous city with trading links all over the Mediterranean. Its scholastic tradition is a long one: Europe's first medical school was founded here in the 12th century.

Between the 17th and 18th centuries, Montpellier's wealthier merchants built grand private mansions with large inner courtyards. Fine examples are Hôtel de Varennes, a harmonious blend of Romanesque and Gothic, and Hôtel St-Côme, the city's first anatomy theatre for medical students and nowadays its Chamber of Commerce.

At the eastern end of place Royale du Peyrou, a wide, tree-lined esplanade, is the Arc de Triomphe (1692); at its western limit, the Chateau d'Eau. Leading from this hexagonal water tower is the 18th-century Aqueduc de St-Clément. Off blvd Henri IV, is the Jardin des Plantes (1593), France's oldest botanic garden. Opposite is Cathédrale St-Pierre, with its disproportionately tall 15th-century porch.

Modern history

Montpellier's population swelled dramatically in the 1960s when many French settlers left independent Algeria and settled here.

About 20km (12.5mi) southeast of Montpellier, is La Grande Motte. Purpose-built on a grand scale back in the 1960s to plug the tourist drain southwards into Spain, its architecture, considered revolutionary at the time, now comes over as fairly heavy and leaden, contrasting with the more organic growth of adjacent Grau du Roi, deeper rooted and a still-active fishing port.

Recent history

In 1977, plans for the Antigone District began. Built on the site of the former Joffre barracks between the old city centre and the River Lez, it features grand neo-classical design by Ricardo Bofill and boasts giant classical motifs. The buildings in this area mainly include low-income housing and public amenities.

In 1988, the Corum building opened. Designed by Claude Vasconi, it holds a conference centre with a huge exhibition space and an opera house.

These days, 425000000 is being invested in a second metro line that will cut across this most pedestrian-friendly of cities, where more than 12,000 parking spaces around the centre encourage motorists to leave their cars behind.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Montpellier and it's region have a Mediterranean climate, similar to that of Provence and characterised by hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters. Northeast winds can be common in summer. In winter, the drop in temperature, due to the wind, can be significant; when the Mistral wind blows through the Rhône Valley, the effects are felt as far as Montpellier.

Transport

Getting there and away

Montpellier's airport is only 8km (5mi) southeast of town. Air France flies at least four times daily to Paris (Orly and Roissy). Ryanair operates daily to and from London (Stanstead).

The bus station is an easy walk from the train station. Hérault Transport runs hourly buses to La Grande Motte. Eurolines has buses to Barcelona and most European desinations. Linebus has services mainly to Spain.

Major destinations from Montpellier's train station are Paris' Gare de Lyon by TGV, Carcassonne, Millau and Perpignan. More than 20 trains daily go to Nîmes and Narbonne.

Getting around

A shuttle bus service arrives and departs every 15 minutes from Montpellier's airport.

A quiet and comfortable tramway crosses the city from north to south until midnight, with connections to existing bus lines, which service the entire region.

Driving in the centre city is difficult (narrow streets, one-way streets, full parking lots). Montpellier encourages cycling and has over 100km (60mi) of bicycle track. TaM Vélo, an admirable urban initiative, rents town bikes and electric bikes.