France

The cobblestoned city of Poitiers is packed with history and resplendent Romanesque churches, but it doesn't dwell too heavily on its past. A futuristic theme park perched on its outskirts, and a large student population (taking lessons in an ancient university) keep things lively.

Before the 20th century

Poitiers was founded by the Pictones, a Gaulish tribe, but was captured by the Romans in 56 BC; they called it Limonum. The Romans built up the city, and numerous reminders are still evident, such as extensive ruins uncovered when the large Cordeliers shopping centre was built in the city centre about a decade ago.

Christianity was introduced in the 4th century. A pivotal turning point in Poitiers' (and indeed France and Europe's) history came in AD 732. Somewhere near Poitiers (the exact site is not known), the cavalry of Charles Martel defeated the Muslim forces of Abd ar-Rahman, governor of Córdoba, thus ending Muslim attempts to conquer France and preventing France from falling under Muslim rule as Spain had done.

In the early Middle Ages, the city was the capital of Poitou, the region governed by the Counts of Poitiers. From 1152 to 1204, the English held Poitiers and neighbouring provinces as the result of the dowry that Eleanor of Aquitaine brought to her 1152 marriage to Henry Plantagenet (later Henry II of England), after having her marriage to Louis VII (of France) annulled. Eleanor of Aquitaine frequently resided in the city, which she had embellished and fortified. Architects adopted architectural elements from Gallo-Roman buildings to create roman (Romanesque) masterpieces like the Église Notre Dame la Grande. Poitier's remarkable Romanesque churches are in part a legacy of Eleanor of Aquitaine's financial support.

Incessant struggles between the Capetians and England's King Edward III (a Plantagenet) over the powerful French throne degenerated into the Hundred Years' War (1337-1453). The Battle of Poitiers was fought between the Kingdom of England and France at Poitiers in 1356. It resulted in the second of the three great English victories of the war (the others being at Crécy and Agincourt).

The University of Poitiers was founded in 1431 by Pope Eugenius IV and granted a royal charter by King Charles VII. In the 16th century, the university exerted its influence over the city's cultural life, and was ranked second only to Paris. Of the 4000 students who attended it at the time, some went on to become famous: Guez De Balzac, François Rabelais, René Descartes and Francis Bacon, to name a few. After temporary closure during the French Revolution when provincial universities were abolished, the University of Poitiers reopened and added new faculties. Today the university remains a lynchpin of the city.

Modern history

Poitiers was bombed heavily during WWII, particularly the area round the railway station. The city's 20th-century revitalisation has been strong - Poitiers has good road and rail communications and is today a commercial and administrative centre.

Among the 20th-century natives of the city was the influential French philosopher Michel Foucault. His influence extends across the humanities and social sciences and into applied and professional areas of study.

Recent history

Poitiers is a rapidly growing, modern, industrial city - its population has more than doubled in the past 50 years. Today residents number around 89,000, and 25% of inhabitants are university students. And where there are students, there's nightlife and an active cultural scene. While Poitiers is generally off the tourist radar, overlooked in favour of the nearby Atlantic coast or elegant Bordeaux to the south, a visit to this city brings its own rewards.

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Poitiers has a temperate climate with mild winters - daytime winter temperatures are rarely very cold, hovering around 9°C (48°F). Nights are naturally cooler but the mercury rarely dips below freezing. Summer days are usually mild and offer sightseeing at a very agreeable 25°C (77°F) average, but on some days the temperature can climb to around 30°C (86°F). Rainfall is a year-round occurrence, however - pack an umbrella and rain jacket, particularly if you're visiting between October and January.

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Transport

Getting there and away

Poitiers-Biard airport is just west of the city. Ryanair offers direct services to and from London, and Airlinair flies to Lyon, where there are connections to a number of French and European destinations.

The train station (08 36 35 35 35; blvd du Grand Cerf) is about 600m downhill (west) from the old city and has direct links to Bordeaux (1.75hr), La Rochelle (80min), Nantes (3.25hr) and many other cities. The TGV links Poitiers with Paris' Gare Montparnasse (1.5hr), with 12 services daily.

For drivers, Poitiers is on the A10 motorway, 325km (202mi) southwest of Paris, and 250km (155mi) north of Bordeaux.

Getting around

Strolling Poitiers' history-ridden streets is the best way to get a feel for the city's past. Along the pavements, red, yellow and blue lines correspond with three self-guided walking tours of the city, detailed on a free city map handed out by the tourist office.

The Vitalis bus network (www.vitalis-poitiers.fr in French) covers the city and surrounds. From the train station, buses 3, 6, 8 and 9 go to the city centre.

There are taxi stands in front of the train station and city hall (Hôtel de Ville), or you can order a taxi by phoning Taxis Radio on 05 49 88 12 34. Drivers can opt for street parking, car parks or the 'parcobus' programme, offering park-and-ride services from four car parks on the outskirts of town. Bikes can be hired from Cyclamen (05 49 88 13 25; 60 blvd Pont Achard).