French Guiana

French Guiana is a country of pristine rainforests that has both the luck and misfortune of being colonized by France. It's the wealthiest region of this South American corner, meaning that everyone from Brazil to Suriname tries to cross its borders in the hope of high-paying jobs and decent unemployment benefits.

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French Guiana is a wet country: even when it's not raining, the air hangs heavy with humidity. The country's tropical rainforests top out at around 30°C (85°F) and receive over 250cm (100in) of rain a year. The rain falls heaviest from January to June, with May seeing the worst of it. Cayenne, the capital, and Guiana's other Atlantic coast settlements are less muggy than inland areas, but that's not saying much.

Transport

Getting around

Air Guyane has scheduled flights to St Georges, Saül and Maripasoula from Cayenne. There's a daily bus service from Cayenne to St Laurent du Maroni via Kourou, Sinnamary and Iracoubo. Taxis collectifs (minibuses), which are faster, much more comfortable and only slightly more expensive, run along the same route. Cars and motorcycles can be rented in Cayenne, Kourou and St Laurent.

River transport into the interior is possible, but unless you take an expensive tour it requires patience and good timing. Because private cars are numerous and roads are fairly good, hitching is a realistic - but risky - alternative. Never hitch along the road from Regina to St George.

In Cayenne, local buses service the beach areas of Rémire-Montjoly, but general public transport is limited, so you may need a taxi. Buses don't run on Sundays. Cayenne-Rochambeau international airport is 16km (10mi) southwest of Cayenne. Taxis to/from the airport are available.

Getting there and away

Not surprisingly, French Guiana has decent air links with Europe, especially France. Within South America flights to Brazil connect with flights to the rest of the continent. Flights to the US are mostly to Miami via Guadeloupe and Martinique. International departure tax is about 20.00 (usually included in ticket price), except for flights to France, which are regarded as domestic and therefore have no departure tax.

It's possible to cross over to Suriname from St Laurent du Maroni by taking the passenger ferry to Albina. From there, there are road connections to Suriname's capital, Paramaribo. There are also launches from Guiana's St Georges to Oiapoque in Brazil.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Rural French Guiana is safe, but the larger towns are not, especially at night. There has been an increase in crime and drug trafficking through the country in recent years, and you'll often find customs roadblocks staffed by gendarmes (police) at Iracoubo and dotting the road towards Régina. Both locals and foreigners may be thoroughly searched for drugs.

Visas overview

Passports are obligatory for all visitors, except those from France. Visitors should also have a yellow-fever vaccination certificate. Australian, New Zealand, Japanese, EU and US nationals, among others, do not need a visa for stays up to 90 days. Those who need visas should apply with two passport photos at a French embassy and be prepared to show an onward or return ticket; the cost of a visa is about 40.00. Officially, all visitors, even French citizens, should have onward or return tickets, though they may not be checked at land borders.