Ghana

If an award were given for the country with the friendliest people in West Africa, Ghana would be a strong contender. Spend a few hours in the breezy capital at Accra, and you'll swear the wind and waves off the Gulf of Guinea have infused the land and people alike with equatorial warmth.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

The refreshing Gulf of Guinea breezes keep the coast a bit cooler than in the north with year- round high 20°C (low 70°F) temperatures the norm. Unless the slightly wetter months of May and June deter you, any time of the year is a good time to visit. In Northern Ghana, May to October sees the most rainfall while the other months have plenty of sun and high 30°C (high 90°F) days to cook under.

Transport

Getting around

The oh-so-adventurous (read: unreliable and uncomfortable!) Yapei Queen makes 24-hour passenger runs across Lake Volta from Akosombo, 104km (65mi) northeast of Accra at the base of Lake Volta, to Yeji, more than 200km (125mi) away on the lake's northwestern shore. The steamer stops at many villages on the way. From Yeji, ferries continue to Buipe, 100km (62mi) farther northwest, and Makongo, 15km (10mi) east; you can arrange ground transport to Tamale from either destination.

Ghana's road network is in decent shape, though there are some badly potholed stretches between Kumasi and Tamale, and on the coastal road between Accra and Aflaoand. You're bound to run into an occasional police checkpoint, though they're usually just angling for a 'dash' (the ubiquitous kickback). Car rental is expensive but available in Accra. Otherwise, most Ghanaians get around in taxis, tro-tros (minibuses) and mammy wagons (generally some sort of converted pickup truck). Traffic accidents are common and care should be taken if driving.

The Greyhound buses connect most major towns and some smaller ones, but their service isn't fantastic and you may find some routes better serviced by tro-tros and share taxis. The comfortable but slow railway service connecting Accra, Kumasi and Takoradi in a single-track triangle is once again operating but, again, you may find road transport a less frustrating alternative.

Getting there and away

Ghana International Airlines took over from the now defunct Ghana Airways in late 2005 and flies between Accra and London. The airport is also served by several other African carriers and major Western airlines. The 35.00 departure tax is included in the ticket price.

Ships connect Tema, 25km (16mi) east of Accra, with ports in Nigeria, Côte d'Ivoire, Cameroon and South Africa. By land, there are buses, taxis, tro-tros (minibuses) and pickup trucks that run between Ghana and Burkina Faso, Côte d'Ivoire and Togo. Border formalities for travellers with visas are usually minimal; greasing a palm or two may speed things up. Watch your pockets at crowded border posts.

Health & Legal Requirements

Visas overview

All visitors are required to have a visa, except for citizens of countries belonging to the Economic Community of West African States (ECOWAS).