overview

A bustling city full of energy, Athens is a superb example of ancient and modern existing in harmony. High on a hill you’ll find the Acropolis, one of the most impressive examples of ancient ruins in the world. The Parthenon meanwhile remains Athens’ greatest symbol - famed for its architectural symmetry. After a day’s sightseeing, a trip to Athens wouldn’t be complete without a visit to one of the local Tavernas. Here you’ll be treated to delicious fresh fish, mouthwatering stuffed vine leaves and arguably the best olives in Europe along with a fine selection of local wine and liqueurs.

history & culture

Before the 20th century

To appreciate Athens, it's important to be aware of the city's traumatic history. Unlike most capital cities, Athens' history is not one of continuous expansion; it is one characterised by glory, followed by decline and near annihilation, and then resurgence in the 19th century, when it became capital of independent Greece.

Accounts of Athens' early days are inextricably woven with mythology, making it difficult to be sure what really happened. We do know, though, that the hilltop site of the Acropolis, endowed with two copious springs, drew some of Greece's early Neolithic settlers. Later, with the rise of city-states, the Acropolis provided an ideal defensive position, and by 1400 BC, it had become a powerful Mycenaean city.

Around 1200 BC Greece fell into a long dark age, of which very little is known, but in the 8th-century BC a peaceful Athens became the artistic centre of Greece. Next came a period of social reform, followed by unrest and subsequent tyranny. Athens didn't shake off oppression until 510 BC, when Sparta stepped in to help. Following the defeat of the Persian Empire, Athens' power grew enormously. It established a confederacy on the island of Delos, demanding tributes from islands for protection against the Persians. The money was used to transform the city. This was Athens' golden age: monuments were built on the Acropolis, and drama and literature flourished. Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides; sculptors Pheidias and Myron; and historians Herodotus, Thucydides and Xenophon all lived at this time.

Sparta, however, wasn't prepared to play second fiddle, and increasing hostilities triggered the Peloponnesian Wars in 431BC. After 27 years of fighting, Sparta gained the upper hand, and Athens slid from its former glory. The century wasn't a total loss, as it did produce three of the west's greatest orators and philosophers: Socrates, Plato and Aristotle.

Under Roman rule, Athens continued to be a major seat of learning, and Roman emperors graced the city with many grand buildings. After the subdivision of the Roman Empire into east and west, the city remained a cultural and intellectual centre until its schools of philosophy closed in 529 AD. Between 1200 and 1450, Athens was overrun by a motley crew of opportunists, including Franks, Catalans, Florentines and Venetians. The Turks invaded in 1453 and settled in for 400 years.

In the early stages of the War of Independence (1821-29), fierce street fighting saw the city change hands several times between Greek liberators and Turks. In 1834, Athens replaced Nafplio as the capital of independent Greece, and King Otho set about repairing the war-torn city. Bavarian architects created a city of imposing neoclassical buildings (most of which have since been demolished) and tree-lined boulevards.

Modern history

The historical event which, more than any other, shaped the Athens of today was the compulsory population exchange between Greece and Turkey that followed the signing of the Treaty of Lausanne in 1923. The population of Athens virtually doubled overnight, necessitating the hasty erection of concrete apartment blocks to house the newcomers.

Along with the rest of Greece, Athens suffered appallingly during the German occupation of WWII and in the civil war that followed. The expansion of Athens accelerated during the 1950s and 60s, when the country began the transition from an agricultural to an industrial nation. The colonels' junta (1967-74) tore down many crumbling old Turkish houses and the neoclassical buildings, all the while failing to tackle the infrastructure problems resulting from the rapid, chaotic growth of the city. By the end of the '80s the city had developed a sorry reputation as one of the most traffic-clogged and polluted in Europe.

Recent history

Since the 1980s, fundamental changes have taken place, the most dramatic in the 1990s. Athens has a conspicuously wealthier society, though there are still major economic disparities and a rural-city divide.

Authorities have embarked on an ambitious program to modernise the city, with key elements being the expansion of the road and metro networks and the new international airport at Spata. Billions have been poured into city development, and since pulling off a successful Olympic Games in 2004, Athens regained some of its old glory.

But the optimism and fiscal good times were short-lived: the global financial crisis, political malaise and widespread disenchantment with the country's governance combined to darken Athens' mood. The extraordinary December 2008 riots, sparked by the police shooting of a teenage boy in Exarhia, were a black mark in Athens history, the worst social unrest in decades.

where to stay

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where to eat

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what to do

There are a variety of activities in Athens to keep your fitness and fun going. Diving enthusiasts will be pleased restrictions previously aimed at protecting antiquities have been eased. Numerous agencies offer charters and sailing trips, and a few provide classes.

Top Attractions

Erechtheion
Anafiotika
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Zappeio Palace
Zappeio Gardens
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Filopappou Hill
Hill of the Nymphs
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A Perfect Day

By Andy Symington

I'm not a huge morning person normally, but it's worth getting up early in Athens, as most of the ancient sites close at . Though I can't do antiquities without first stopping at one of my favourite cafes for a Greek coffee, nice and strong. I take it sketo (without sugar) and it sets me up for the morning. Of course, I'm going to visit the Acropolis during my stay, and will spend at least a day at the fabulous National Archaeological Museum, but today I have other sights in mind. I head straight for the Ancient Agora, where I admire the noble temple of Hephaestus and browse the museum, especially the fascinating ceramic fragments once used for the ostracism (exile) of unpopular politicians (ah, those were the days!). The pretty Byzantine church of the Holy Apostles also catches my eye. Then I head along pedestrianised Ermou, to the Keramikos (once the burial place of ancient Athens), enjoying the Acropolis views. After a light lunch on a terrace in nearby Thisio, I jump on the metro and head to Kolonaki to one of my favourites: the Museum of Cycladic Art, with its curious and beautiful ancient figurines. While I'm in the area, I take advantage of the views by heading up Lykavittos Hill. It's a pretty hot day, so the funicular to the top is the easy option. The views at the top are stunning, and the walk down through scented woods is very pleasant. Then I head into touristy but charming Plaka for a coffee at the excellent Café Plaka. Nearby is one of my favourite dinner spots, Taverna tou Psara. But today I have other ideas for the evening meal and head to fashionable Psirí, a suburb transformed from seedy to trendy in the blink of an eye. I do as the locals do and eat late, after . There are dozens of intriguing places to choose from and, handily, I'm right in the middle of some of the city's most cutting-edge nightlife for late night frolics!

when to go

Athens has a typically Mediterranean climate. In July and August, the mercury can soar to 40°C (100+°F) in the shade, but relief can be found in the meltemi, a strong northerly wind that sometimes sweeps the eastern coast of mainland Greece.

Average weather

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money & costs

Main Currency


Currency: Euro (EUR)
Symbol: €

  average room cost average meal cost
Deluxe:   40+
High: 140+  
Mid: 80-140 15-25
Low: 40-80 10-15

getting around

Transport

Getting around

The sparkling new metro system has made getting around the centre of Athens relatively painless, and the extension of the whole network should ease the city's notorious traffic congestion. Athens also has an extensive bus and trolley (electric cable bus) network.

Getting there and away

The state-of-the-art international airport is the primary gateway to Athens for most visitors, and - for transit passengers - it even has its own museum! In addition to flight, a well-run bus system, trains and ferries from the islands and Italy are also popular methods of arrival.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Traffic can be stressful in Athens especially when hailing taxis during peak hour. Be wary of a small percentage of dishonest taxi drivers.

The heat in summer can be stifling, so drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration and heat exhaustion, and wear sunscreen, sensible light clothing and a hat.

Crime, especially theft, is traditionally low in Greece, but unfortunately it is on the rise. The worst area is around Omonia in central Athens - keep track of your valuables here, especially on the metro and at the Sunday flea market. The vast majority of thefts from tourists are still committed by other tourists; the biggest danger of theft is probably in dormitory rooms in hostels and at camping grounds. Make sure you do not leave valuables unattended in such places. If you are staying in a hotel room, and the windows and door do not lock securely, ask for your valuables to be locked in the hotel safe - hotel proprietors are happy to do this.

fast facts

Full name Athens
Currency Euro, EUR (€)
Population 3700000
Languages Greek (official)
Time zone(s) GMT/UTC: +2
Voltage 220V
Hertz 50 Hz
Plugs European plug with two circular metal pins

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