Honduras

Honduras is the original banana republic, but travel here is easy, enjoyable and inexpensive. The slow pace, natural beauty and low-profile tourism make it particularly appealing to travelers who, well-armed with insect repellent, enjoy getting off the beaten track.

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The mountainous topography of Honduras means that climate varies significantly depending on altitude. Mid-altitude temperatures are fairly moderate with regular sunshine making the mercury climb from 15-20°C (59-68°F) to about 28°C (82°F) during the middle of the day. Rainfall is low to moderate with a patchy wet season from May to October. Lowland and coastal regions experience less of a temperature range with warmer nights and slighty less rainfall, though the Caribbean coast is wet year-round. Hurricane season is from June to November.

Transport

Getting around

Domestic flights have recently increased in frequency. It's easy to fly to the Bay Islands from La Ceiba, Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula, and to fly between these three major cities. More air routes into La Moskitia are making the remote area more accessible. There are frequent buses to most towns; the first usually leaves at the crack of dawn, the last late in the afternoon. Boats and cayucos (dugout canoes) are common around the Bay Islands, along the Caribbean coast, and in La Moskitia. There are taxis and moto-taxis in most towns but they're not metered - negotiate a fare beforehand. Car rental is available in bigger towns and cities, but it's not cheap - rental rates and gas quickly add up. Hitching a ride (un jalón) is generally easy in rural areas where trucks often stop to pick up passengers. Be aware that hitching is never entirely safe and Lonely Planet does not recommend it. It's wise to travel in pairs and be sure to let someone know where you plan to go.

Getting there and away

There are flights to and from Tegucigalpa, San Pedro Sula and Roatán with frequent connections to other Central American capitals and many destinations in North America and Europe. The departure tax on international flights is around 30.00. Border crossings are open daily from early morning to late afternoon.

While there is no tax for entering or exiting by land, officials sometimes charge a small 'fee'; unless it's blatantly ridiculous, it's best to pay. The main crossings to Guatemala are at Agua Caliente, El Corinto and El Florido; to El Salvador at El Amatillo and El Poy; and to Nicaragua at El Espino, Guasaule and Las Manos. Frequent buses serve all crossing points, but most don't cross the borders - you have to walk to the other side and connect with another bus. The only regularly scheduled international passenger boat service is the small boat that runs twice weekly from Puerto Cortés to Dangriga and Belize City (Belize). Otherwise it may be possible to arrange passage with a fishing or cargo vessel if you pay your way. Negotiate directly with the captain. On the Caribbean coast, you may find boats around Puerto Cortés, La Ceiba, Trujillo or the Bay Islands. The most common destinations for international boats are Puerto Barrios (Guatemala), Belize, Puerto Cabezas (Nicaragua), and the Caribbean islands. On the Pacific coast, try San Lorenzo for boats to Nicaragua or El Salvador.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Honduras has a very high crime and violence rate, though the vast majority of travelers experience no problems. Pickpocketing and petty theft are the most common, and assault is possible. Take ordinary precautions - don't wear flashy jewelry, walk around with your camera out or pull out wads of cash. Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula are the worst places for street crime; the downtown areas of both are fine during the day, but less so after dark. Consider taking a cab when it gets late. If you are mugged, do not resist.

In general, small towns are safer than the big cities. Watch yourself on the north coast, especially on the beach: avoid leaving items unattended and stay away at night. It seems to be a favorite tactic of thieves to wait in the trees along a deserted stretch of beach, especially after dark, and wait for someone to come by.

Visas overview

Citizens of most European countries, the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and Japan normally receive 90-day tourist cards when entering the country. Upon arrival you will fill out a short immigration form, the yellow portion of which will be stapled or folded into your passport. Don't lose it! This form will be collected when you depart and stamped if you seek an extension on your stay. Once inside Honduras, you can apply for an extension once, for a total stay of 180 days. After that you must leave the country for at least three days and then re-enter.