India

India is a kaleidoscope of experiences. It’s vast, vivid and intoxicating, and has some of the most luxurious hotels in the world, many in former maharaja palaces. There’s much to marvel at here. Northern India is where most visitors usually explore first. The capital, Delhi is a mix of ancient fortresses and modern skyscrapers, while Agra is home to the breathtaking Taj Mahal and ‘The Pink City’ of Jaipur to incredible forts, palaces and bazaars, with the mighty Amber Fort close by. It’s still possible to catch sight of the Bengal Tiger at Ranthambore National Park and India has some amazing tented safari camps. In the far north are the foothills of the Himalayas renowned for their yoga retreats. Head south and the laidback beaches of Goa and the backwaters and rice boats of Kerala are waiting to seduce you.

Top Accommodation

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  The Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra

  India

  Enjoy unparalleled panoramics of the magnificent Taj Mahal

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  Marari Beach Resort

  India

  Set on the sandy shores of the Arabian Sea, this eco-friendly luxury hideaway is encompassed ...

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  The Oberoi Vanyavilas

  India

  A man-made lake runs through the resort

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  Taj Umaid Bhawan Palace

  India

  Named after the grandfather of the present Maharaja of Jodhpur, this Palace was built between ...

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Top Restaurants

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  Amanbagh, Ajabgarh

  India

  Located in the Aravalli Hills in northern Indian, Amanbagh provides the perfect backdrop for exploring ...

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  Marari Beach Resort

  India

  Set on the sandy shores of the Arabian Sea, this eco-friendly luxury hideaway is encompassed ...

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  Taj Lake Palace

  India

  Arriving at the Taj Lake Palace by boat, one is slowly mesmerized by this surreal ...

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  Banjaar Tola

  India

  One of two Safari lodges operated by Taj Hotels and Resorts and &Beyond, The Banjaar ...

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India has 8 climactic zones. The weather is hot most of the year. The coolest weather is from December to February. The unpleasantly hot weather is from March to June. Monsoon rains usually begin in June to October. The best time to visit is from October to March.

Transport

Getting there and away

India's major international airports are Mumbai (Bombay), Delhi, Kolkata (Calcutta) and Chennai (Madras); there are other international airports at Ahmedabad, Amritsar, Bangalore and Kochi, although these service far fewer international flights. See www.indianairports.com for details.

An onward or return air ticket is usually a condition of the Indian tourist visa, so few visitors buy international tickets inside India. Only designated travel agencies can book international flights, but fares may be the same if you book directly with the airlines.

The most popular overland routes between India and Nepal are Birganj-Raxaul Bazaar, Sunauli-Bhairawa and Kakarbhitta-Siliguri. If you're heading from Kathmandu or Pokhara to Delhi or elsewhere in northwestern India, then Sunauli is the most convenient entry point; to reach Kolkata or most of eastern India, Birganj is the best place to cross the border; and to get to Darjeeling, it's easiest to go via Kakarbhitta. It's fairly easy to travel between Kolkata and Dhaka overland. The only border crossing currently open between India and Pakistan is at Attari between Lahore and Amritsar. This and all other border crossings are by road only.

Phuentsholing is the main entry and exit point between India and Bhutan but you now need a full Bhutanese visa to enter the country, which must be obtained at least 15 days before your trip from a registered travel agent listed under the Department of Tourism, Bhutan (www.tourism.gov.bt).

Getting around

India's major domestic airline, the government-run Air India (which now includes Indian Airlines), has an extensive network, although with the recent opening of the Indian skies, there are now scores of private carriers servicing many destinations within India. These carriers include Jet Airways (rated as India's best airline), Jagson Airlines, Spice Jet, IndiGo and Kingfisher Airlines.

The Indian Railways system is deservedly legendary and Indian rail travel is unlike any other sort of travel on earth. At times it can be uncomfortable and frustrating, but it's also an integral part of the Indian travel experience. You should try to pick up the key points of Indian train etiquette as quickly as possible, otherwise you'll find yourself hopelessly attempting to defend your own private space. There are a number of different classes and a number of different trains: you want express or mail trains, but try all the different classes just for the hell of it. The Indian reservation system is labyrinthine and worthy of anthropological study, but be patient because it's one of the few bureaucracies in the country that actually works. When booking tickets, take advantage of the tourist quota allotment if one exists. You'll find it easier to reserve a seat this way. The best way of sourcing updated railway information is to use relevant internet sites such as Indian Railways and the useful www.seat61.com/India.htm.

Buses vary widely from state to state, but there is often a choice of buses on the main routes - ordinary, express, semi-luxe, deluxe, deluxe air-con and even deluxe sleeper. Government buses are supplemented by private operators on many routes. Private buses tend to be faster, more expensive and more comfortable and can make a lot of sense on longer jaunts. Bus travel is generally crowded, cramped, slow and uncomfortable. This is the good news. The bad news is the rugby scrum you often need to negotiate in order to board, and the howling Hindi pop music which blares from the tinny speakers. Buses are the only way to get to Kashmir and the best way to get to Nepal from Uttar Pradesh; they are generally faster than trains in northern Bihar and in large areas of Rajasthan.

You can hire a car and driver very easily, but you need nerves of steel and excellent karma to consider driving yourself. Cars are usually rented on a daily (ie 8hr) basis and come with a limited number of kilometres per day. For long trips, negotiate a package deal and ensure this includes the driver's expenses. If you're planning a long trip, it's wise to go for a short spin with your prospective driver just in case you don't like his braking ability.

Motorcycling around India (especially on an Enfield Bullet) has become a popular pastime, though it's a hazardous endeavour and not for the amateur two-wheeler. Bicycles are a great way to get around India's smaller (less traffic-filled) towns and can usually be hired for a pittance. Long-distance touring, however, is not for the faint-hearted or the weak of knee. If you're thinking of bringing your own bike, think twice about bringing your state-of-the-art 10-speed unless you want it to be poked, probed and perved at every time you stop.

Local transport includes buses, taxis, auto-rickshaws, cycle-rickshaws and tongas (horse-drawn carriages). Taxis may have meters, but don't expect them to be working in more than a handful of cities. Three-wheeled auto-rickshaws are generally half the price of a taxi and allow the passenger much better inhalation of diesel fumes. Cycle-rickshaws have all but disappeared from the centres of major Indian cities but are still an essential part of the transport network in smaller towns. Be sure to agree on a fare beforehand.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Most of the time, India is no more dangerous than anywhere else, but certain areas are particularly prone to insurgent violence - specifically Kashmir, the Northeast States, some remote tribal regions and, less frequently, parts of Bihar and West Bengal. Curfews and strikes can close the roads (as well as banks, shops etc) for days on end in sensitive regions like Kashmir. International terrorism is as much of a risk in Europe or America, so this is no reason not to go to India, but it makes sense to check the local security situation carefully before travelling (especially in high-risk areas).

Theft is a risk in India, as it is anywhere else. On buses and trains, keep luggage securely locked (mini-padlocks and chains are available at many train stations) and lock your bags to the metal baggage racks or the wire loops found under seats; padlocking your bags to the roof racks on buses is also a sensible policy.

Many private travel agencies make extra cash by scamming travellers for tours and travel tickets. Make sure you're clear what is included in the price of any tour (get this in writing) to avoid charges for hidden 'extras' later on.

Dozens of locals and foreigners drown every year on Goa's beaches alone, even confident swimmers who venture into (deceptively) calm seas. Be aware that the sea can have very dangerous rips, undertows and currents; always inquire locally to find out safe places to swim and preferably have someone keep a watch while you take a paddle.

India has its fair share of scams, but most problems can be avoided with a bit of common sense and an appropriate amount of caution. Scams change as tricksters try to stay ahead of the game, so chat with travellers and tourism officials to keep abreast of the latest cons.

Visas overview

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