overview

An important centre of Islamic culture in a Hindu-dominated state, Hyderabad is southern India's counterpart to the Mughal splendour of Delhi, Agra and Fatehpur Sikri. Quick to embrace technology, Hyderabad is also known as 'Cyberabad', as a growing class of techies and cyber kings make their mark.

history & culture

Before the 20th century

Hyderabad owes its existence to a water shortage. Towards the end of the 16th century, the banks of the Musi River proved to be a preferable location for Mohammed Quli, of the Qutb Shahi dynasty. The royal family abandoned Golconda Fort and established the new city of Hyderabad there. In 1687 it was overrun by the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb. Subsequent rulers of Hyderabad were viceroys, installed by the Mughal administration in Delhi. In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderabad an independent state with himself as leader. The dynasty of the nizams of Hyderabad began, and the traditions of Islam flourished. Hyderabad became a focus for arts, culture and learning and the centre of Islamic India. Its abundance of rare gems and minerals - the world-famous Kohinoor diamond is from here - furnished the nizams with enormous wealth.

Modern history

In the early 19th century the British established a military barracks at Secunderabad, named after the nizam at the time, Sikander Jah. When Independence came in 1947, the then nizam of Hyderabad, Osman Ali Khan, considered amalgamation with Pakistan, but tensions between Muslims and Hindus increased. Military intervention saw Hyderabad join the Indian union.

Recent history

Today, the west side of Andhra Pradesh's capital is, with Bangalore, the seat of India's mighty software empire; it goes by the name 'Cyberabad' and generates jobs, wealth and posh lounges with abandon. Across town from all this sheen is the old Muslim quarter, with centuries-old Islamic monuments and even older charms. An important centre of Islamic culture, Hyderabad is southern India's counterpart to the Mughal splendour of Delhi, Agra and Fatehpur Sikri, and a sizable percentage of Hyderabad's population is Muslim. The city gracefully combines Hindu and Islamic traditions - while a strategically placed 17.5m/57ft-high buddha looks on.

where to stay

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what to do

Top Attractions

Mecca Masjid
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Salar Jung Museum
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Charminar
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A Perfect Day

By Amy Karafin

The best days are the ones that start around , after I've had a few cups of masala chai and Hyderabad's rush-hour chaos has settled into rushed off-hour chaos. En route to the Old City, another cup of tea is in order at Minerva Coffee Shop, where I look out on the Musi River - the whole reason Hyderabad exists in the first place (a long story involving the Qutb Shahis, Golconda Fort, a water shortage and a few plagues) - and take in the delicious architecture of Osmania General Hospital, whose name comes nowhere near describing the building's dreamy grandeur. Reflecting on how much I dig the seventh nizam's taste in architecture, I head towards Charminar, getting sidetracked by a series of stalls selling nothing but sparkly, embroidered handmade shoes. After extended haggling and a long search for the right size of sequined, beaded and belled slippers for my niece, I decide that the provision of such slippers to every four-year-old girl in the world should be mandatory.

I have trouble finding the new HEH, The Nizam's Museum. No one seems to notice or care that there's a sprawling compound of exquisite (but tired) structures whose history dates back more than 200 years. In the museum, I look at the sixth nizam's 72m/236ft-long wardrobe (it's said he never wore the same thing twice). And because it's Hyderabad and they don't do things like prohibit touching the exhibits, I'm allowed to fondle the silk pyjama pants of the man who was once the richest person on earth.

I make my way over to the newly restored Chowmahalla Palace, another architectural wonder that no one thinks about. But first I stop at Hotel Shadab, which, as usual, is packed with businesspeople, families and girlfriends in burkas having lunch. The veg biryani, which only Hotel Shadab can do properly, is worth the wait. At Chowmahalla, I count the nizams' huge, old Belgian-crystal chandeliers (there are 19).

On my return to Abids I have a cup of masala chai and wind down to the day's visions of lost majesty.

when to go

During the hot season, temperatures in Hyderabad can sometimes approach those of the northern plains of India. In April and May temperatures may rise to 40°C (104°F) but during the rest of the year the climate is temperate. The cooler season is typically tropical in temperature when warm, sunny days are moderated by dry heat and pleasantly cool evenings. December and January are usually the coolest months. Rainfall is generally moderate compared with the coastlands.

Average weather

Average temperature in Hyderabad
Average rainfall in Hyderabad

money & costs

Main Currency


Currency: Indian Rupee (INR)
Symbol: Rs

getting around

Transport

Getting around

Lots of useful local buses originate at Koti bus station, so if you come here you might get a seat. The 'travel as you like' ticket, available from bus conductors, permits unlimited travel anywhere within the city on the day of purchase. There are places around Nampally station where you can rent a car and driver; City Cabs is reliable for local taxis. For longer trips, try Banjara Travels or Ravi's Tours and Travels.

Getting there and away

Hyderabad has air, road and rail links to most major Indian cities. Most international flights go via Mumbai (Bombay). Airline offices are generally open to Monday to Friday, with a break for lunch, and to on Saturday. Hyderabad's long-distance bus stations are mind-bogglingly efficient. Mahatma Gandhi bus station serves all parts of the state and interstate, and has a computerised advance booking office. Secunderabad's Jubilee bus station operates buses to Bidar (4hrs, four daily) and Bangalore (12hrs, five daily), as well as a daily Volvo AC super-deluxe bus to both Bangalore (10hrs) and Chennai (12hrs). Secunderabad, Hyderabad (also known as Nampally) and Kacheguda are the three major train stations. Most through trains (not originating in Hyderabad) leave from Secunderabad and stop at Kacheguda, a convenient set-down for Abids.

fast facts

Currency Indian Rupee, INR (Rs)
Population 5500000
Languages Punjabi (official)
Gujarati (official)
Telugu (official)
Marathi (official)
Kannada (official)
English (essential)
Kashmiri (official)
Bengali (official)
Tamil (official)
Urdu (official)
Hindi (official)
Time zone(s) GMT/UTC: +5.50

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