Italy

Sardinia is only a few hours by ferry from mainland Italy but can seem a world apart. Cagliari, the island's capital, is a class act that hums with cosmopolitan charm yet retains a palpable old-fashioned feel. There's lashings of history and culture, plus Italy's longest beach just up the road.

Before the 20th century

The Phoenicians first established themselves around modern-day Cagliari in the 8th century BC, but it was not until the Carthaginians took control of what they called Karel or Karalis (meaning 'rocky place') around 520 BC that a town structure began to emerge.

The Romans attached particular importance to Karalis and Julius Caesar declared it a Roman municipality in 46 BC. For centuries it remained a prosperous port at the head of the grain trade with mainland Italy, but with the eclipse of Rome's power came more turbulent times.

Vandals, operating out of North Africa, waltzed into the city in AD 455 only to be unseated by a resurgent Byzantine Empire in 533. Cagliari thus became capital of one of four districts, which later became the medieval provinces called giudicati. By the 11th century, weakening Byzantine influence (accentuated by repeated Arab raids) led Cagliari and the other districts to become virtually autonomous.

The emerging rival sea powers of Genoa and Pisa were soon poking their noses around and in 1258 the Pisans took the town, fortified the Castello area and replaced the local population with Pisans. A similar fate awaited them as the Catalano-Aragonese took over in 1326. In the ensuing years of conflict around the island, the Catalano-Aragonese managed to keep Cagliari. The Black Death swept through in 1348, followed by frequent repeat episodes of the plague in the succeeding decades.

With Spain unified at the end of the 15th century, the Catalans themselves were subordinated to the Spaniards. Cagliari fared better than most of the island under Spanish inertia and mismanagement, and in 1620 the city's university opened its doors.

The dukes of Savoy (who in 1720 became kings of Sardinia) followed the Spanish precedent in keeping Cagliari as the viceregal seat and it endured several anxious events (such as the 1794 anti-Savoy riots). From 1799 to 1814 the royal family, forced out of Piedmont by Napoleon, spent much time in Cagliari protected by the British Royal Navy.

The first street lighting appeared in 1811 and a regular postal service with Genoa was established in 1835. Meanwhile King Carlo Felice had built a modern highway to Sassari that still bears his name today. Cagliari continued to develop slowly throughout the 19th century. Parts of the city walls were destroyed and the city expanded as the population grew.

Modern history

Cagliari was heavily bombed in WWII, and in 1948 the city was awarded a medal for the bravery of its people. Reconstruction commenced shortly after the end of the war and was partly complete by the time Cagliari was declared capital of the semi-autonomous region of Sardinia in the new Italian republic in 1949. A good deal of Sardinia's modern industry, especially petrochemicals, has since developed around the lagoons and along the coast southwest as far as Sarroch.

One of the most important postwar successes was the elimination of malaria from the Sardinian coast in the 1950s - this allowed the development of coastal tourism that today forms a pillar of Sardinia's economy.

Recent history

Sardinia's single biggest headache is lack of water. As demand grows in the cities and expanding tourist resorts, the problem becomes more acute. In 2002 the drought was so severe that Cagliari was down to four hours of running water a day.

Other problems facing the island are relatively high unemployment, poor infrastructure and administration, and unchecked tourist development. There is a delicate balance to be struck between modernisation and preserving the island's unique native character.

On a more positive note, there has been renewed interest in and appreciation of traditional Sard culture and artisanship, which were repressed for so many centuries.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Sardinia has a mild Mediterranean climate, defined by hot, dry summers followed by mild winters with light rainfall. The island is renowned for its seven-month summer and in a good year you could be happily stretched out on the beaches in April and as late as October, when temperatures still hover around 20°C (68°F).

If you can, avoid visiting during the broiling, super-crowded months of July and August. In the depths of winter (November to February) some of the island goes into hibernation.

Average weather

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Transport

Getting around

Buses run almost hourly to connect Cagliari's airport with the city centre (ARST station in Piazza Matteotti). The trip normally takes 10-15 min.

Getting around the city on foot, although a little tiring at times in the hilly tracts around Castello, is generally the best option.

CTM (070 209 12 10) buses have routes across the city and surrounding area. They come in handy for the Calamosca and Poetto beaches. Pay per ride, or with a biglietto giornaliero (day ticket).

Driving in Cagliari is a pain, although given the geography of the town (one big hill) you might want to consider renting a scooter for a day or two. Parking a car in the city centre generally means paying. Either buy special tickets to leave on the dashboard of your car from newspaper stands or pay one of the attendants.

There are taxi ranks at Piazza Matteotti, Piazza della Repubblica and on Largo Carlo Felice. You can call for one on 070 40 01 01 from 05:30 to 02:00. Outside those times you might have difficulty.

Getting there and away

Cagliari's Elmas airport (www.aeroportodicagliari.com) is 6km (3.7mi) northwest of the city centre and links Sardinia with many major Italian cities, and some European destinations.

The Stazione Marittima (ferry terminal) is in the heart of Cagliari just off Via Roma. Ferries depart regularly for Palermo and Trapani (Sicily), as well as Naples, Livorno and Civitavecchia on the mainland.

For bus journeys around Sardinia, the main ARST intercity bus station is on Piazza Matteotti. PANI buses to Oristano (1.5hr), Nuoro (3.5hr) and Sassari (3.25hr nonstop) leave from outside the Stazione Marittima. The ticket office is in the port building itself. For Iglesias (1-1.5hr), Carbonia, Portovesme (2hr) and the Sulcis area, FMS buses leave from Via Colombo 24. Buy tickets from the nearby Bar Mura.

The main Trenitalia station is found on Piazza Matteotti. Trains service Iglesias (1.5hr) and Carbonia (1.25hr) in the southwest, while the main line proceeds northwards as far as Sassari (4.25hr) and Porto Torres via the towns of Oristano (1-2hr) and Macomer. A branch line from Chilivani heads out for Olbia (4hr) and Golfo Aranci.

The FdS train station for trains travelling north to Dolianova, Mandas and Isili is on Piazza Repubblica.

The SS131 Carlo Felice highway links Cagliari with Porto Torres via Oristano and Sassari. It is the island's main dual-carriage artery. Another highway, the SS130, scoots east to Iglesias.

The only way to really see Sardinia is by renting your own vehicle; train and bus services are reliable but can be limited in the interior especially outside high season. The big international car-rental agencies are represented at Cagliari's airport and there are also several at the port.