Italy

Cosenza has an amazing surprise clasped to its chest. Struggle through its urban outskirts and tangle of flyovers to find the medieval core, a higgledy-piggledy pile of buildings rising above the confluence of the Crati and Busento rivers. Explore its narrow alleys and steep stairways, and you'll find a fascinating town, pretty but not prettified, untouristed, with a touch of the Wild West about its dilapidated shopfronts. Cosenza is home of Calabria's most important university, and its theatre hosts an excellent opera season. It's also the gateway to La Sila's mountains and is a major transport hub. There's a riverside Friday morning market.

Before the 20th century

Italy's deep south is well off the beaten track and is frequently dismissed by refined and affluent northerners as the land of terroni (peasants). Yet the south is terribly ancient; its history can be traced back some 8000 years.

During the second Punic war (BC 218-202) Cosenza was the capital of Southern Italy's Bruttii tribe, who, after helping Hannibal, were dispersed from their homes in 204 BC and declared public slaves. The Romans took over and Cosenza flourished. Many stunning churches and buildings were erected during Roman rule. Until its fall, Cosenza belonged to the Third Region of the Western Roman Empire.

In AD 410 the barbarian Goth King Alaric I besieged Cosenza, having arrived en route from Rome with a hefty booty (never found). The town got back up on its feet when he died of malaria shortly after.

Cosenza's archdiocese was founded in the 6th century AD; over time it maintained its power and today has over 130 parishes.

In 1222 King Frederick II visited the city and the famous Piazza del Duomo (still a tourist attraction) was built for the occasion.

In the 16th century, Cosenza's cultural significance grew because of the Accademia Cosentina, whose members included the brains Bernardino Telesio, Aulo Gianni Parrasio, the Martirano brothers and Antonio Serra. This philosophical hub won Cosenza the nickname 'Athens of Calabria'.

Overall, there was much suffering and chaos for Cosenza, with numerous wars throughout its time. It eventually became a republic in 1799, but not before occupation by the Byzantines, Saracens (around 988 the Saracens and the Lombards destroyed the town in a fight), Normans (Cosenza became Calabria's capital as a feudal dukedom of the Normans), Angevins (house of Anjou), and Spain (in 1500 Great Captain Consalvo de Cordoba occupied Cosenza). Even when Cosenza was a republic other countries tried to muscle in, and from 1806 to 1815 Cosenza fought against French domination. If all this wasn't enough to contend with, the town was rocked frequently by earthquakes - in 1783, 1854, 1870, and 1905.

Modern history

Fascist dictator Mussolini entered WWII on Germany's side in 1940; Cosenza was hit by Allied bombs, but luckily most of its attractions weren't destroyed. Unfortunately what was hit and restored was rebuilt in a featureless style. In WWII's aftermath, the whole south became the frontline for the 'Battle for Wheat', an initiative aimed at making Italy self-sufficient when it came to food. Even today the south is covered in wheat fields, olive groves and fruit arbours.

Recent history

In the past Cosenza was a sophisticated and lively city and these days its university draws students from throughout the province. Cosenza knows how to exploit its historical heritage; it offers many cultural activities and is a beautiful town that is not yet overexposed.

Its widely distributed sights and attractions force you to engage with the landscape and locals on a level impossible in more urban, sophisticated Italian cities.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Summers are long, hot and dry so sleeping can sometimes be difficult on summer nights. Winter temperatures tend to be relatively moderate, with daytime averages not too far below 10°C (50°F. November and December get a fair torrent of rainfall so are probably not the best months to visit.

Average weather

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Transport

Getting around

The main drag, Corso Mazzini, runs south from Piazza Fera (near the bus station) and intersects Viale Trieste before meeting Piazza dei Bruzi. Cosenza isn't geared for tourism and what little there is of accommodation, restaurants, banks and tourist assistance is all within about 10min walking radius of this intersection. Head further south and cross the Busento River to reach the Medieval part of town. Cosenza's handful of sights are all located in the old town, which you enter by crossing the River Crati over the Ponte M Martire. To get the best out of this town, and indeed the whole of the south, your own transport is an advantage and, at times, essential. For car hire try Amigoautos (9714 9 83 99) or Europcar (0984 40 47 31). For a taxi, call 0984 2 88 77. Amaco (0984 30 80 11) buses 15, 16 and 28 link the centre and Stazione Nuova.

Cycling is a national pastime and moped/motorcycle touring is also popular. In summer, motorcyclists swarm here to tour the scenic roads.

Getting there and away

Cosenza is a major transport hub. It is off the A3 autostrada, and SS107 connects the city with Crotone and the Ionian coast, across La Sila.

The main bus station is northeast of Piazza Fera. Services leave for Catanzaro (1.5hr, 8 daily), Paola (40min, 10 daily) and towns throughout La Sila. Autolinee Preite (0984 41 30 01) has 6 buses daily along the north Tyrrhenian coast, while Autolinee Romano (0962 2 17 09) serves Crotone, as well as Rome and Milan.

The main train station, Stazione Nuova (0984 2 70 59), is about 2km (1.2mi) northeast of the city centre. Trains go to Reggio di Calabria (2.75hr, 15 daily), Naples (3.5hr, 13 daily) and Rome (5.5hr, 12 daily), as well as most destinations around the Calabrian coast. There is a twice-daily train running between Cosenza and San Giovanni in Fiore. The scenic train route, Ferrovie della Calabria (www.ferroviedellacalabria.it), has its terminal beside the old train station and serves La Sila and other small towns around Cosenza.