Italy

Look around the verdant, mist-cloaked area known as the Langhe and you'll spot a medieval castle perched atop every peak, rolling hillsides awash with vines, vines, vines and, higher up, hazelnut groves hiding truffles. Gourmets flock to Italy's 'secret' region for its wine trail and gastronomy.

Before the 20th century

There is evidence of inhabitation in the Langhe region (Alba and surrounds) as far back as the Stone Age. The area was inhabited by the Ligurians who invaded the area around 500 BC. In Roman times Alba became a significant trading centre along the river Tanaro. The octagonal perimeter wall in Albe was built by the Romans and still shapes the old part of town.

Langhe is dotted with picturesque towns ranging from 100 to several thousand inhabitants and it seems as if every town has a castle or a tower. Barolo's castle (Castello dei Marchesi Falletti di Barolo) was built in the 10th century. In the heart of the village, the Regional Enoteca for Barolo wine is now based there; a place where tourists can visit to sample and purchase the region's wines. Several other towns in the region host 'enotecas' (wine libraries or stores, often with a cafe attached) in their castles, including Mango (Enoteca Regionale del Moscato), Borgomale, Grinzane Cavour (first regional enotect in Piedmont).

Monesiglio Castle in Monesiglio (13th C), with its Romanesque-style columns and arches, is a fine example of the typical architecture of the region.

Modern history

Alba has many beautiful old churches. The most famous are the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, Church of San Giuseppe and the Church of Santa Caterina.

In 1946, Confectioner Pietro Ferrero founded the company Ferrero after he invented a product that developed into Nutella. The home of Ferrero, producers of the famous Ferrero Rocher chocolates, Nutella, Tic Tacs and the Kinder chocolate range is in Alba. Still family-owned, it is a substantial employer in the area (around 16,000 employees). You'll be able to smell the chocolate, but the factory is unfortunately a no-go zone for tourists.

The Slow Food Movement (www.slowfood.com) was founded by members from Bra, Serralunga d'Alba and Barolo in 1986. A non-profit organisation, it was founded on the concept of eco-gastronomy - 'a recognition of the strong connections between plate and planet'. Now 82,000 members strong and in 107 countries, its campaigns support good, clean and fair food, and has a philosophy against globalisation of food production, frenetic lifestyles and unhealthy eating habits.

Recent history

These days Alba, the heart of the Langhe, is a chic, sophisticated town.

Home to many food and wine festivals and a growing number of tourists; the Vinum wine festival occurs at the end of April, the Moscato and Asti Spumante cocktail festival takes place in Mango in April, Cortemilia celebrates its most famous product with its Sagra Della Nocciola (Hazelnut Fair) in the last week of August, and the Truffle ('tartufu') Festival happens in Alba in early October.

In Alba on the first Sunday in October it's time for Donkey Palio. Locals dress up as elegant 13th-century noblemen and scruffy commoners to parade the streets and loudly cheer on the donkey race.

Alba's fastest growing industry these days is tourism, as more and more travellers are eschewing the big cities for a different type of holiday. Showcasing local food and wine, and the popularity of gourmet tours has boosted demand for local produce. This 'new agricultural economy' has reversed the drain of youth from the country to the cities.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Langhe is beautiful year-round. The climate is Mediterranean and mild - the Italian Riviera is only 48km (30mi) to the south east. The short winters are mild - temperatures rarely fall below zero - although you may experience damp and fog in the depth of winter. Spring and autumn are long and pleasantly warm, but with plenty of rain. In summer it's hot and dry; on the hilltops sea breezes provide some relief.

Average weather

• Temperature
• Rainfall