Italy

In a country filled with superstar cities and a surfeit of historic sights, Padua (Padova in Italian) can hold her head high. Less than 40km (24.8mi) from Venice, the city beckons with arcaded streets and grand squares, an historic university, a venerated saint and masterful frescoes by Giotto.

Before the 20th century

As long ago as the 6th century BC the Veneti tribe had an important centre here, later known as Patavium under the Romans. The Lombards made short work of the place in 602, virtually razing it. The comeback was slow, but by the 13th century, when it was controlled by the querulous counts of Carrara, Padua was a burgeoning independent city-state. The Carrara counts encouraged cultural and artistic pursuits (when they weren't busy warring with all and sundry), and established the Studium, the forerunner of the university, in 1222. The foundation of the Basilica del Santo, dedicated to St Anthony, followed 10 years later. Venice put an end to the Carrara counts' passion for conquest when the Republic incorporated Padua into its growing land empire in 1405.

Padua remained under Venetian rule until the fall of the Republic in 1797. In 1798 Venice and most of the Veneto passed to Austria. The region became a playing piece to be shunted around among the great powers; for an eight-year interlude it was tied to Napoleon's Kingdom of Italy before reverting to Austria in 1814.

The Austrians were very unpopular and in 1848 Padua joined the long list of rebels who rose up against the established order across Europe. In 1866 the Battle of Königgrätz finally gave Italy the opportunity to push the Austrians out of the Veneto. Five years after the proclamation of a new united Italian kingdom in 1861, the Veneto region joined it.

Modern history

Shakespeare called Padua a 'nursery of arts' in The Taming of the Shrew, and most of that play's action is set here. In modern times, however, industry has come to share centre stage with arts, science and academic pursuits in the town and surrounds. Padua has grown into the economic and communications hub of the region, in part thanks to its position in the geographical centre of the Veneto.

After heavy Allied bombing during WWII, Padua's city was rebuilt and industry began to flourish. Corn and saw mills, distilleries, factories, foundries, agricultural machine and automobile works have all been established, and such industry continues to attract job-seeking immigrants to the city. There is a growing number of labourers of Eastern European origin.

Recent history

It's true, in tourism terms Padua suffers in the shadow of its magnificent neighbour, Venice. What city could compete with such a superstar? Still, with all its historic attractions, religious connections, industry and student life, Padua offers a better taste of real life Italian-style than the watery wonderland-turned-theme-park of Venice. Join the locals in the bars for a spritz (the classic early-evening apéritif in the Veneto) and enjoy the less-touristy ambience.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Padua can be hot, humid and somewhat energy-sapping in summer, so you'll probably want to break your sightseeing with stops for drinks and/or gelati. In July and August the humidity can bring cracking storms in the evening.

Winter daytime temperatures aren't too bad, and January, February and March are the months with the least rainfall, so days can be crisp and stunning (if there's no fog). The most agreeable temperatures occur in spring and autumn, but this coincides with the wettest months (April-May and October-November), so don't forget to pack an umbrella.

Average weather

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Transport

Getting there and away

The closest airports are at Venice and Verona.

The easiest way to get between Padua and Venice is by train (30-40min). Regular trains link Padua with other northern cities like Bologna, Vicenza, Verona, Milan and beyond. The station is about 500m north of the Scrovegni Chapel. Local buses run into the centre from in front of the train station.

Regular SITA buses (049 820 68 44) from Venice (45-60min) arrive at Piazzale Boschetti, 200m south of the train station. From Padua you can get buses to nearby attractions such as Montegrotto Terme and the Colli Euganei, and as far afield as Genoa. Often you're better off with the train, however.

For drivers, the A4 (Turin-Milan-Venice-Trieste) passes to the north, while the A13, which connects the city with Bologna, starts at the southern edge of town. The two motorways are connected by a ring road.

Getting around

Local ACAP bus 10 will get you to Piazza Cavour from the train station, while bus 12 goes to Prato della Valle, south of the city centre. Buy tickets at tobacconists and stamp them in the machines on the bus.

If you're walking into the centre from the train station, you'll cross the main waterway flowing through town, and immediately on your left will be the Scrovegni Chapel.

The city centre is small enough to enjoy on foot, with attractions generally within walking distance of each other. Alternatively, from April to October an open-topped sightseeing bus offers a hop-on, hop-off service around the city's major sights.