Italy

Parma is a household name thanks to Parmigiano reggiano (good old Parmesan cheese) and Italy's best prosciutto, Parma ham. The local produce is unrivalled but don't be surprised if you almost miss a couple of meals trying to take in the many fine sights in this ancient home of dukes.

Before the 20th century

Parma has been a bit of a transport hub since around 183 BC. Via Emilia divides the city from east to west and, while still a major route, it was originally the main drag of the Roman colony that replaced the Etruscans here. Over time Huns, Goths, Lombards and Franks would all take a turn to make their mark on this plentiful locale - sometimes that mark was more a mission to sack and destroy.

As a pilgrimage pit stop on the way to Rome, Parma grew in the Middle Ages and was increasingly pimpled with castles, hospitals and inns. In 1064, the University of Parma was founded, now one of the world's oldest universities. No doubt Parma had learnt about the importance of location by this time - the city increasingly struggled with its neighbours to control trade routes over the Po River.

In the 11th century Parma threw its lot in with the Holy Roman Empire against the papacy and even furnished two antipopes. In the following centuries internal squabbling largely determined the city's turbulent fate, as it fell successively to the Visconti family, the Sforzas, the French and finally - sweet revenge - the papacy.

The Farnese family became Dukes of Parma in the pope's name from 1545 to 1731, when the Bourbons took control, making Parma a pawn in European power games. Don Philip of Bourbon, son of Spain's Philip V, and his wife, Louise Elisabeth, daughter of France's Louis XV, ushered in a period of peace and frenetic cultural activity.

Another powerful European royal house - the Hapsburgs - briefly controlled the Duchy of Parma in the 18th century until the Bourbons returned with an enlightened secular spirit to transform the duchy into a modern state. The building of strong industrial foundations accompanied a civic boom that lasted up until the Napoleonic Wars. Parma then became part of the First French Empire.

The Battle of Waterloo in 1815 meant different things to different people. While Napoleon, defeated, headed into miserable exile, Marie-Louise of Austria, his second wife and a Hapsburg, fared better. After her heady few years as Empress of all France, she was left with the dukedom of Parma, Piacenza and Guastella. She ruled until 1847, with a level of moderation and good sense uncommon for the time.

Pass-the-Parma-parcel continued as the Bourbons once more landed the duchy. Around this time, the much-decayed University of Parma was revitalised and Verdi composed his greatest works nearby, but the overall scene was of bloody instability that ended only with Italy's 1860 unification.

Swallowed by Emilia-Romagna (its capital, powerful Bologna), Parma was no longer an independent territory. Sidelined and overshadowed, Parma was in crisis but slowly the city found its place in the region. Industry was a key to recovery - Barilla, the Parma-based pasta multinational, got its start here in 1877 - and surrounding districts regained their manufacturing might towards the end of the century.

Modern history

Italy had become one state - but not one big, happy family. Political struggles between the right and left made for turbulent times. In industrial Parma, trade unions were strong and the city was stalled by a 36-day general strike in mid-1908.

Parma FC - the 1990s giants of Italian football and twice-winner of the UEFA cup - kicked off in 1913. A stadium quickly followed in 1923 - the 29,000 seater, Stadio Comunale Ennio Tardini. Initially named the Verdi Football Club after local music luminary, Parma FC quickly progressed into higher leagues.

Meanwhile, Fascism was rising. In the unstable years following WWI, during which new-born Italy suffered much death and depletion - Benito Mussolini's squadristi, or Blackshirts, made the Po Valley their stronghold. Breaking strikes and crushing the local socialist movement, the Blackshirt gangs became intent on taking all strategic positions in Italy ahead of their power-taking march on Rome.

In 1922, the citizens of Parma dramatically held back the Fascist wave - if only for a moment. When Italo Balbo led his Blackshirts into Parma's Oltretorrente quarter, he was met by People's Assaulters, or Arditi del Popolo, who pushed back the incursion. Parma was certainly the only Emilian city to hold out and its gutsy display is considered the first instance of such resistance in Italy.

Again the site of resistance during German occupation in WWII, Parma was lucky to escape the worst of the bombing. However, Parma's railway station and sidings did become Allied targets in 1944 and a nearby 17th-century palace also copped the blast. The city was liberated by Allied forces in April 1945; Nazi collaborator Mussolini was strung up in the street in nearby Milan.

Post-war Parma and its fertile countryside continued to grow prosperous. In 1961, the youthful Calisto Tanzi founded a small pasteurisation plant in nearby Collecchio - it became the multinational Parmalat.

Recent history

The region surrounding Parma has come a long way since wheels of the local cheese were accepted as currency. However the production of parmagiano reggiano (the cheese the English call Parmesan) and Parma ham (Italy's best prosciutto) are still key regional exports.

Parma's rich agricultural history has generated a thriving industrial present - multinationals Barilla and Parmalat are still growing strong in their home town. It makes sense that, in 2004, Parma became the permanent home of the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA), an agency of the European Union.

Although the Dukes of Parma are long-deposed, the title continues in name. Parma's real ducal legacy, however, is architectural splendour that visitors can enjoy in the present - including the handiwork of some of Italy's great names.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Parma, located between the Po Valley plain and the Apennine range, is blessed with a pleasant microclimate. Although inland, a sea breeze is said to temper and dry the air so that Parma escapes both serious alpine chills and the worst of lowland humidity.

As spring turns to summer (April-June), Parma is at its best. Warm, but not stifling, these salad days are free from the scorching heat of July and August.

A long, sometimes severe, winter ensures low temperatures and some snowfalls. The city is cloaked by fogs from November to February.

Rain is plentiful for most of the year (this is Italy's food basket after all) so be prepared with an umbrella or waterproof coat.

Average weather

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Transport

Getting around

Over 20 TEP bus lines (www.tep.pr.it, in Italian) crisscross the city and outlying suburbs of Parma, departing from the bus station on Piazzale dalla Chiesa.

Plentiful parking surrounds the car-free centre of the old town - try the underground car park on Viale Toschi or the many meters near the station.

In the squares and cobbled lanes of the historic centre, bicycles rule. The municipality rents out bicycles - conventional and electric - from Parma Punto Bici (www.parmapuntobici.pr.it, in Italian; Viale Toschi 2; 9:30-13:00 & 15:00-18:30).

For the local taxi service, call 0521 25 25 62.

Getting there and away

Parma's train and bus stations are close together on Piazzale dalla Chiesa at the northern edge of the city's historic centre.

Frequent trains (www.trenitalia.com) connect Parma with Milan (1.25hr), Bologna (1hr), Brescia (2hr), Modena (30min) and Piacenza (30min).

TEP (www.tep.pr.it in Italian) operate buses throughout the region, including into the Apennines. There are up to six daily buses connecting with Busseto (1.25hr) via Soragna (1hr).

Parma is on the A1, linking Bologna and Milan, and just east of the A15, which runs to La Spezia. Via Emilia (S9) passes right through the town.

The closest large airports are at Bologna and Milan (Linate).