Italy

An unashamed resort town, Sorrento lines the cliffs that look over the water to Naples and Mt Vesuvius. According to Greek legend, it was here that the Sirens, those mythical provocateurs of pure voice and dodgy intent, lurked, trying to lure Homer's Ulysses and his men.

Before the 20th century

Ancient Sorrento's foggy origins have Phoenician and Greek fingerprints scattered faintly around the crime scene right up to the first solid sandal prints which leave no doubts about a Roman stay. Throughout their time Sorrento's reputation as a popular seaside resort increasing exponentially as villa after villa sprung up, elbow to elbow with lovely sea views. The only hiccup was the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD, which caused plenty of damage in town, though not in comparison to Pompeii, Herculaneum and Stabia, which were completely destroyed. The city, once named Surrentum after the oft quoted story of the sexy sea sirens who would entice sailors to an early exit with their gyrations and enchanting songs, found itself slave to many masters long before more famous cities were even thought of. When Rome fell over the Goths moved in, followed by the Longobards, who spent a long time hanging around laying an ultimately unsuccessful siege to the well defended city. In 552 the Byzantines rolled through and made merry until a variety of local chest thumpers sent them packing and turned the area into a Dukedom, subject to Saracen raids and battles between whoever could raise an army and find someone to fight. The Normans under Ruggero stopped all that rot in 1133, binding the town's fate to that of Naples and the greater area. Turkish pirates took their turn in 1158, looting the town after a naughty slave opened the front gates and let them in. The citizens by this time were well fed up with all the skulduggery and decided to throw up some nice big walls and keep a better eye on the slaves in the hope of keeping future plunderers outside the door. From then on into the 19th century Sorrento grew and grew as a holiday resort. It even started attracting well-to-do's like Lord Byron and Goethe. Soon other chaps followed and the honour roll of those who have enjoyed the delights of Sorrento - John Keats, Walter Scott, Wagner and Nietzsche among them - would make any dinner party interesting.

Modern history

Sorrento seemed to dodge much of the upheaval taking place across Europe in the 20th century. The Amalfi coast including Sorrento was used as an R&R centre by Allied troops stationed in the Middle East and Italy during WW2. Noted guests continued to flock to the resort - Gustav of Sweden, Fernando of Bulgaria, even Ronald Reagan. The real boom along with tourism was the growth of citrus product, especially lemons, along the Costa Amalfitana, sparking a postcard and tea-towel bonanza through town featuring all manner of lemon and lemon-related images under Sorrento's proud name.

Recent history

Sorrento's recent history has been one of minor controversies and major fine weather. Drunk American sailors causing havoc (1999) and the 56th annual International Whaling Commission meeting (2004) are typical breaking news stories among the ancient cliffs and villas.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Sorrento sweats in the summer and even though temperatures can drop to less than 10°C (50°F) in winter, it really is pretty hard to freeze along this coastline. The rain is at its heaviest in November and December.

Average weather

• Temperature
• Rainfall

Transport

Getting there and away

At least 12 SITA buses run daily between Sorrento and Amalfi, looping around Positano; more than 10 buses also run to Ravello. Buses leave from outside the Circumvesuviana train station. Trains run to/from Naples via Pompeii and Ercolano. Hydrofoils leave to/from Capri and to/from Naples. All depart from the port at Marina Piccola, where you can buy your tickets.

Getting around

There is a bus service from Piazza Tasso to the port at Marina Piccola. Tickets are available at tobacconists, newsagents and bars. Several rental companies hire out scooters and cars. Taxis are also available.