Mauritania

Mauritania is venturing through towns blanketed in sand, crossing moon-like plateaus, taking camel treks across dunes, travelling the longest, dustiest train in the world and gazing at ancient Saharan architecture. One thousand-mile stare coming up.

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In a mostly hot and dry climate, December to March on the Atlantic coast provide the nicest conditions. The mercury usually stops around 30°C (86°F) during these months and the humidity is that little bit lower than the rest of the year so things don't get too stuffy. Moving inland closer to the Sahara simply trades the humidity for higher temperatures and no sea breeze to offset it.

Transport

Getting there and away

Regular flights to Nouakchott from Paris are available. You can also fly from Casablanca and Algiers a couple of times a week, as well as catch flights from Dakar, Bamako, Banjul and Abidjan. There are also charter flights direct to Atâr (near Chinguetti) from Paris with Point Afrique. Air tickets are much cheaper in Mauritania than the rest of Africa, so never purchase return tickets from other African countries; buy two one-way tickets instead. Border disputes, although calmer now than in recent years, still occur. The adventurous might consider the following options. Bush taxis from Senegal can take you as far as the border crossing to Rosso, where a ferry connects to more taxis on the Mauritanian side. From Dakar the trip takes up to 12 hours. The Morocco convoy days are over. Coming from the north, it's easy to hitch a ride with other travellers from a Dakhla campement (guesthouse) - people usually charge 20.00 to 40.00 per person. It's a challenging drive through the desert, and drivers are usually happy to take people along to cover the costs of a guide and to help with digging the vehicle out of the sand. The route is an adventure - a first taste of the desert, like a scene from Mad Max, scattered with car wrecks and people appearing from nowhere. There's less traffic from south to north, but it's possible to get a lift this way too. You could also club together with other travellers and arrange a bush taxi for the journey. It is possible to travel to Mali in your vehicle or via sporadic public transport. From Nouâdhibou to Nouakchott 473km (293mi), and the 1100km (680 mi) onwards to Nema is asphalted all the way. The journey to Bamako can be done in three days, but that's pushing it. Although the main crossing point to Mali has been closed for most of the decade, it should be possible to cross at other points, such as south of Kiffa. Consult with officials from either country before attempting this journey.

Getting around

Air Mauritanie runs regular internal flights to Nouâdhibou, Atâr, Néma and other towns, but bear in mind their safety checks are not considered up to international standards. Book early. Bush taxis and trucks ply all the major routes also, but the roads are often bad and the trips slow and long. There is a train in Mauritania, too which is an experience rather than just a means of transport. It runs from Nouâdhibou to Zouérat, carrying iron ore and uncomfortable passengers. There's one passenger car, dusty and crowded, or the daring can travel for free in the open-air iron-ore trucks. Driving is possible through some of Mauritania, but should never be attempted alone, and hardly ever without a guide. Of 7660km of roads, 866 are paved. Going off-piste, a knowledge of deserts and winds is required, making it an unattractive option for many travellers. Hire cars are expensive, but are available in Nouakchott, Nouâdhibou and Atâr.

Health & Legal Requirements

Visas overview

Visas are required for most visitors, apart those from various other African countries. They are available from your local Mauritanian embassy or on the border with Morocco.