Mexico

Cabo's legendary 'Marlin Alley' has lured sportfishing aficionados for decades, but these days whale-watching, golfing and partying are edging out this traditional favorite pastime. If that's not your cup of tequila, spend an extended siesta on miles of postcard-perfect beaches.

Before the 20th century

The original Cape locals were the Guaycura, who roamed the region as nomadic hunter-gatherers and survived contact with the occasional European explorer until the 17th century. Few records of their civilization survive, though evidence suggests they practised polygamy, possibly because tribal warfare had created a shortage of men. In the 16th century, the myth of an all-woman land of warriors rich in gold reached Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés, who promptly dispatched four expeditions but, after finding only hostile land and locals, eventually beat a retreat.

Meanwhile, the Los Cabos area became an important stopover for the so-called Manila galleons - boats loaded with silk, perfumes and other treasure traveling from Acapulco to the Philippines. Their presence attracted numerous English pirates, most famously Thomas Cavendish, who sacked the prized Spanish galleon Santa Ana in 1587.

In the 17th century, the Spanish crown decided to take another stab at settling Baja California and this time they brought out the army of God; Jesuit missionaries established a string of missions throughout Baja, although not in Cabo proper. The town remained a sleepy fishing village, far removed from civilization, until well into the 20th century.

Modern history

By the 1930s Cabo's population was still only 400 people strong; many of them worked in the town's rather successful cannery. After WWII, word that the waters off Los Cabos were teeming with billfish reached sportfishers in North America, among them Hollywood royalty. The town's popularity with anglers and luxury boaters swelled the population to about 1500, especially after the completion of the Carretera Transpeninsular, which rolled into the area in 1974. The next big boost to accessibility was the construction of an international airport north of nearby San José del Cabo in 1986.

Recent history

Today, Cabo San Lucas is in the throes of development, with a gaggle of developers and hustlers offering time shares and condos. Seasonal visitors see the population soar to more than 50,000. Some luxury developments have been controversial, particularly Pedregal, a gated hill-top community catering to the filthy rich. With over 3000 private vacation homes, dozens of hotels, several golf courses and other infrastructure, Cabo San Lucas has firmly established itself as a major Mexican holiday resort.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Summer in Cabo San Lucas can get pretty tumultuous. The months from May to October are the hottest and wettest of the year, and can see in the occasional hurricane. The 'winter' months (December and January), when the temperature still averages around 24°C (75°F), are calmer.

Average weather

• Temperature
• Average Humidity
• Rainfall

Transport

Getting around

The main stop for buses that travel around Cabo San Lucas is on the corner of Blvd Lázaro Cárdenas. Bus drivers will stop on request at any of the beaches or hotels along the Los Cabos Corridor en route to San José del Cabo.

From the airport, private taxis are convenient but pricey and only really worth it if there's a group of you. Airport shuttle vans are cheaper. Some hotels offer discounted pick-up service.

The streets of Cabo San Lucas are often clogged with cars and parking can be difficult, especially in the peak tourist season (March and April). There is a public carpark at the southern end of Blvd Marina, where you can leave your car and explore the city on foot. Some of the more upmarket restaurants are beginning to offer valet parking.

Getting there and away

Los Cabos International Airport is 43km (26mi) northeast of Cabo San Lucas and 10km (6mi) north of San José del Cabo. The big US airlines and the local Mexican airlines make regular flights to and from the USA. Departure tax is levied on international flights but are usually included in your ticket fee. There are regular shuttle buses from the airport to Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo.

Buses arrive at and leave Cabo San Lucas from the terminal at the junction of México 19 and the Cabo bypass. These buses also serve Todos Santos (1.5hr), La Paz (2.5hr, or 3.5hr via San José del Cabo) and Tijuana (24hr). If you have your own car, you can drive to Cabo San Lucas on either the México 19 or the Carr Transpeninsular from La Paz.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

A major annoyance is the gauntlet of time-share salespeople lined up along Blvd Marina like buzzards on a fence. They will try to entice you with free meals, drinks or rounds of golf if you attend a 'short' tour and presentation. Don't be fooled: this could take up half of a vacation day. Because nearly their entire income comes from sales commissions, they will put serious pressure on you to take advantage of the 'unique opportunity' offered by buying into their properties. Ignore them as best you can.