Mexico

Ixtapa is a glitzy, government-planned resort with fine beaches, a marina, golf courses and budget-bursting hotels. On the flip side, nearby Zihuatanejo seduces tourists with its beautiful bay and peaceful coastal ambience - take a morning stroll by the pier to meet the pelicans and the fisherfolk.

Before the 20th century

Mexico's Pacific coast has a distinct ancient history that is unique in all of Mesoamerica. Archaeologists and art historians treat this area as a unified region, defined by its tradition of shaft or chamber tombs, underground burial chambers at the base of a deep shaft. The oldest of these have been dated as far back as 1900 BC, but the most significant were probably built between 1500 BC and 800 BC.

Much of what is known about the cultures of west Mexico is based on the excavation of these tombs and the analysis of the clay sculptures and vessels found within. The ceremonial centers around the tombs suggest a fairly developed spiritual and religious life. Shaft tombs are found nowhere else in Mesoamerica, but they are found in Ecuador and Colombia. It's quite likely that maritime exchange between western Mexico and northern South America began some 3000 years ago.

Around the close of the Classic period, a metal-working tradition made its appearance in western Mexico. A comparison of these copper artifacts with those found in Ecuador demonstrates striking similarities, leading archaeologists to conclude that contact between western Mexico and northern South America continued well into the Postclassic period.

The Spanish arrived in Mexico in 1519 and soon traveled to Zihuatanejo.

Modern history

Ixtapa was a coconut plantation and nearby Zihuatanejo a sleepy fishing village until 1970, when Fonatur - the Mexican government's tourism-development organization - decided that the Pacific coast needed a Cancún-like resort complex. Ixtapa was selected for its proximity to the US, warm average temperatures, tropical vegetation and lovely beaches. Fonatur bought up the coconut plantation, laid down infrastructure and rolled out the red carpet for hotel chains and real-estate developers.

Recent history

Today, Ixtapa's big hotels line Playa del Palmar - a long, broad stretch of white sand that's often overrun by parasail and jet-ski outfits. Other tourist drawcards include the Ixtapa Club de Golf Palma Real and the Marina Ixtapa Golf Club. Scuba diving is also a popular pastime in the warm, clear waters. Another recent addition to Ixtapa's kitsch and glitz is Magic World - an aquatic park with slides and pools, you know the deal.

Zihuatanejo is much larger than Ixtapa; its suburbs continue to grow, spreading around Bahía de Zihuatanejo and climbing the hills behind town. It draws tourists for very different reasons to its resort neighbor, the main one being peace and quiet. Marine life is abundant here due to a convergence of currents, and the visibility can be great for scuba diving. Sportfishing is also a popular pursuit - sailfish are caught year-round. Small-scale fishing is still the city's economic mainstay, so the seafood here is simply divine.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

It's hot, really hot, around here, with temperatures hovering between 30 and 33°C (86-91°F) all year. If you're visiting between May and early November, bring an umbrella - rainfall isn't heavy, but grey clouds frequently lurk overhead. From late November to late April it's slightly cooler, but much drier. Be aware that hurricanes can occur in September and October.

Average weather

• Temperature
• Rainfall

Transport

Getting around

For transport between the two towns, frequent local 'Directo' and 'B Viejo' buses do the trip in 15 minutes.

From Zihuatanejo, the 'Correa' route services the Central de Autobuses. Catch it on Juárez at the corner of Nava. 'Playa La Ropa' buses head south on Juárez and out to Playa La Ropa about every half hour. 'Coacoyul' colectivos heading toward Playa Larga depart from Juárez near the corner of González every five minutes.

Ixtapa has plenty of taxis. Always agree on the fare before climbing into the cab. Prebooked services can be arranged by telephone.

Ixtapa has several places that rent out motorbikes; you usually need a driver's license and a credit card. If you're not an experienced motorcyclist, Mexico is not the place to learn.

There are several car rental companies in Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo. If you're heading into the Michoacán highlands, the scenic toll-road Hwy 37D will save you hours. Gas up before you leave town; there's a long Pemex-less stretch of road before Nueva Italia.

Getting there and away

Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo International Airport (tel: 554 20 70) is 13km (8mi) southeast of Zihuatanejo, just off Hwy 200, heading towards Acapulco.

Both long-distance bus terminals are on Hwy 200, about 2km (1.2mi) northeast of Zihuatanejo center (towards the airport) - the Estrella Blanca terminal is a couple of hundred meters further from the center than the smaller Estrella de Oro terminal.

For airport transport, private colectivo (shared) vans service Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo from the airport, but don't run in the other direction. From Ixtapa, you'll need to grab a taxi. From Zihuatanejo, jump on a public 'Aeropuerto' colectivo departing from Juárez near González.

The Central de Autobuses, northeast of Zihuatanejo, services both towns.

In Ixtapa, buses stop along the main street, in front of all the hotels.

In Zihuatanejo, buses depart from the corner of Juárez and Morelos. Buses marked 'Zihua-Ixtapa-Playa Linda' continue through Ixtapa to Playa Linda, stopping near Playa Quieta on the way. Manzanillo-bound buses continue to Puerto Vallarta (14hr) and Mazatlán (24hr).

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

A study published by the Mexican government's environmental agency, Profepa, cited 16 of the country's beaches as having unacceptably high levels of bacterial contamination. At the top of the list were Playas La Ropa, Las Gatas and Municipal, all on Bahía Zihuatanejo. This is the result of insufficiently treated sewage flowing into the bay. Ocean currents in winter keep the bay flushed out, but at other times of the year (particularly late summer and during periods of rain), you should use your discretion (and your nose) when deciding whether or not to swim.