Mexico

Sit beneath a palapa (palm tree) on a stretch of white sand in La Paz and you'll swear you're in a Corona commercial. Few places are finer for watching a Baja sunset than on the splendid malecón (waterfront boulevard), as ferries from the mainland quietly sail into the port of Pichilingue.

Before the 20th century

In 1535 Hernán Cortés established Baja's first European settlement on Península Pichilingue, just north of La Paz. However, despite the discovery of pearls in the Gulf of California, it was soon abandoned due to indigenous hostility and food and water shortages. By the late 16th century, England and Holland were disputing Spain's maritime hegemony, and buccaneers were raiding Spanish ships throughout the world. The treasure-laden galleons that sailed from Manila to Acapulco were especially popular targets, and the pirates often used Bahía de La Paz as a staging area for raids upon the galleons. After the turn of the century, in response to incursions by Northern Europeans, Viceroy Gaspar de Zuñiga y Acevedo of New Spain (Mexico) granted Sebastián Vizcaíno a license to exploit the pearl fisheries of the Cape Region and establish settlements to discourage privateers. Though Vizcaíno renamed Bahía de la Santa Cruz as Bahía de La Paz (Bay of Peace), he abandoned the idea of a settlement there due to the shortage of supplies and the area's limited agricultural potential. In 1720 the Jesuits established a mission, but epidemics and indigenous uprisings led to its abandonment 29 years later.

Modern history

La Paz was briefly occupied by US Marines during the Mexican-American War, then attacked by William Walker during his attempt to annex Baja California to the USA. Mining at nearby El Triunfo, along with pearling and fishing in the gulf, contributed to the city's post-independence growth. La Paz' political status advanced with the grant of statehood to Baja California Sur in 1974, when it was made the state capital.

Recent history

Money Magazine recently rated La Paz as the best place in the world to retire, perhaps due to the medical facilities available and the completion of two major shopping centers.

These days, La Paz is home to three leading Marine Biology Institutes (UABCS, CIBNOR and CICIMAR). Sitting on the Gulf of California - one of the most bio-diverse bodies of water in the world - it is easy to see why. In addition, ecotourism is its major source of tourist income; people visit La Paz to enjoy both its marine and terrestrial wildlife.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

This region of Mexico is famous for its warm temperatures and, in La Paz, you'll be reminded of the meaning of the word 'hot'. While the cooler months hover around 23°C (73°F), the warmer period around the middle of the year frequently reaches 35°C (95°F). Rainfall is low year-round, so forget your umbrella - just pack a snorkel and some sunblock!

Average weather

• Temperature
• Rainfall

Transport

Getting around

The government-regulated minivan service Transporte Terrestre travels to/from the airport. There are also private taxis, but they may be shared.

There are several car-rental agencies. All have offices at the airport and along the malecón (waterfront boulevard).

Getting there and away

The airport, Manuel Marquez De Leon (tel: 122 14 86; Transpeninsular Hwy Km 9) is about 9km (5.5mi) southwest of the city. There's an immigration office here. Aeroméxico has flights every day except Sunday between La Paz and Los Angeles, and daily flights to Tijuana and mainland Mexican cities. Aerolitoral, in the same office, flies daily to Loreto and Tucson. Aero California operates daily nonstop flights to Los Angeles and Tijuana, and to mainland Mexican destinations including Los Mochis (for the Copper Canyon Railway), Mazatlán and Mexico City. It also has branch at the airport.

Ferries to Mazatlán and Topolobampo leave from the ferry terminal at Pichilingue, 23km (14mi) north of La Paz. The Mazatlán ferry is operated by Sematur. Baja Ferries operates from the La Paz-Topolobampo line; tickets and information can be obtained in La Paz. Tickets for both Sematur and Baja Ferries can also be obtained in Pichilingue.

The ferry to Mazatlán departs in the afternoon on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, arriving the following morning; return ferries leave Mazatlán on Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

The Topolobampo ferry sails in the morning Monday through Sunday. The return ferry leaves at night Monday through Sunday. Arrive at the pier three full hours prior to departure. Vehicle rates, which are paid in addition to passenger fares, vary with vehicle length. Officials require a vehicle permit - obtain one at the Banjército ferry terminal.

ABC and Autotransportes Águila both leave from the downtown bus terminal (cnr Malecón and Av Independencia) along the malecón (waterfront boulevard). There's an immigration office near the center.