Mexico

Oaxaca is a Spanish-built city of narrow streets with a special atmosphere; at once relaxed and energetic, remote and cosmopolitan. Situated in the rugged southern state of the same name, Oaxaca has a large indigenous population, flourishing markets and some superb colonial architecture.

Before the 20th century

The Aztec settlement here was called Huaxyácac (meaning 'In the Nose of the Squash'), from which 'Oaxaca' is derived. The Spanish laid out a new town around the existing zócalo (main plaza) in 1529. It quickly became the most important place in southern Mexico.

Eighteenth-century Oaxaca grew rich from exports of cochineal, a red dye made from tiny insects living on the prickly pear cactus, and from the weaving of textiles. By 1796 it was probably the third-biggest city in Nueva España, with about 20,000 people (including 600 clergy) and 800 cotton looms.

Modern history

In the last two centuries, seismic movement has done much to shape Oaxaca. In 1854 an earthquake destroyed much of Oaxaca city. It was decades before Oaxaca began to grow again, under the presidency of Porfirio Díaz. In the 1890s its population exceeded 30,000. Then in 1931 another earthquake left 70% of the city uninhabitable.

Recent history

Oaxaca's major expansion has come in the past two decades, with tourism, new industries and rural poverty all encouraging migration from the countryside. The population of the city proper has almost doubled in 25 years, and together with formerly separate villages and towns it now forms a conurbation of perhaps 450,000 people.

In May 2006, a teachers' strike in Oaxaca city escalated into violent political demonstrations. Protests against the state government resulted in the creation of the Popular Assembly of the Peoples of Oaxaca (APPO), which declared itself de facto governing body in Oaxaca state. Anti-government protestors have since been calling for the resignation of governor Ulises Ruiz Cortez.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

There is perhaps no finer place in the world to be than Oaxaca in the winter: daytimes are toasty and the nights are just cool enough to make you grateful for the contrast. Summers, by contrast, are hot and muggy.

The average high in Oaxaca city ranges from 25°C (77°F) in December and January (the coldest months, when lows average about 8°C (46°F) to about 30°C (86°F) from March through May, the hottest months.

Average weather

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Transport

Getting there and away

Direct flights to/from Mexico City (1hr) are operated by Mexicana, Aviacsa and Azteca. Aviacsa also flies daily to Acapulco, Tijuana and Hermosillo, and Aeroméxico flies to Tijuana and Tuxtla Gutiérrez. Continental has flights to/from Houston, Texas. Click Mexicana flies to/from Tuxtla Gutiérrez, continuing to/from Villahermosa, Mérida, Cancún and Havana. Aero Tucán provides the half-hour trip to Puerto Escondido and Bahías de Huatulco on the Oaxaca coast, as well as to Puebla and Tuxtla Gutiérrez. Aerovega flies a seven-seater to/from Puerto Escondido and Bahías de Huatulco.

Terminal de Autobuses de Primera Clase (1st-class Bus Station; Calz Niños Héroes de Chapultepec 1036) is 2km (1.2mi) northeast of the zócalo. Also known as the Terminal ADO, it's used by UNO, Maya de Oro, ADO GL, ADO, OCC/Cristóbal Colón, Sur, AU and Cuenca.

The Terminal de Autobuses de Segunda Clase (2nd-class Bus Station; Las Casas) is 1km (0.6mi) west of the zócalo; the main long-distance companies using it are Estrella del Valle/Oaxaca Pacífico, Fletes y Pasajes, and Transportes Oaxaca-Istmo.

It's advisable to buy your ticket a day or two in advance for some of the less frequent services, including buses to San Cristóbal de Las Casas and the better services to the coast. Autoexprés Atlántida (La Noria 101) runs 14-seat Suburban vans via the Hwy 175 to Pochutla, the jumping-off point for Puerto Ángel, Zipolite, Mazunte and other nearby beaches. Also by Hwy 175, EV/OP runs 2nd-class buses to Pochutla and Puerto Escondido from its Armenta y López terminal (Armenta y López 721), 500m south of the zócalo. From the 2nd-class bus station, EV/OP runs ordinarios to Pochutla and Puerto Escondido, and buses to Santa Cruz Huatulco.

Cristóbal Colón runs buses by the Salina Cruz route to Bahías de Huatulco. Some continue to Pochutla and Puerto Escondido. Other services to Puerto Escondido go from the 2nd-class bus station.

Getting around

Oaxaca airport is 6km (3.6mi) south of the city, 500m off Hwy 175. Transporte Terrestre combis from the airport will take you to anywhere in the city center. You can book a combi seat from city to the airport, a day or more ahead, at Transportes Aeropuerto.

You can rent good mountain bikes at Bicicletas Pedro Martínez or Bicicletas Bravo.

Most points of importance in the city are within walking distance of each other, but you might want to use city buses to and from the bus stations.

Buses between the 2nd-class bus station and the center pass slowly along congested streets, and it's almost as quick to walk.

'Centro' buses head toward the centre along Trujano, then turn north up Díaz Ordaz. Going out to the 2nd-class bus station, 'Central' buses head south on Tinoco y Palacios, then west on Las Casas. There are several guarded parking lots in the city center.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

It's best not to go up on Cerro del Fortín (Fort Hill), the hill with the Guelaguetza auditorium, except for special events such as the Guelaguetza festival. It's a well-known haunt for robbers.

If traveling by bus (especially 2nd-class) between Oaxaca city and coastal destinations, keep a close eye on your personal possessions, as thieves lurk on buses and beaches.