Mexico

This handsome colonial city in the pine-clad Valle de Jovel is surrounded by delightful Tzotzil and Tzeltal villages where age-old customs are spiced with modernity. It's a magnet for travelers wanting to learn a little Spanish, absorb the bohemian atmosphere and soak up the lively bar scene.

Before the 20th century

Diego de Mazariegos founded San Cristóbal as the Spanish regional base in 1528. Its Spanish citizens made fortunes from wheat, while the indigenous people lost their lands and suffered diseases, taxes and forced labor.

However, the church afforded some protection against colonist excesses. Dominican monks reached Chiapas in 1545, and made San Cristóbal their main base. The town is now named after one of them, Bartolomé de Las Casas, who was appointed bishop of Chiapas and became the most prominent Spanish defender of indigenous people in colonial times.

San Cristóbal was the Chiapas state capital from 1824 to 1892.

Modern history

San Cristóbal remained relatively isolated until the 1970s, when tourism began to influence its economy. Recent decades have seen an influx of indigenous villagers into the 'Cinturón de Miseria' (Belt of Misery), a series of impoverished, violence-ridden, makeshift colonies around San Cristóbal's periférico (ring road). Many of these people are here because they have been expelled from Chamula and other communities as a result of internal politico-religious conflict. Most of the craft sellers around Santo Domingo church, and the underage hawkers around town, come from the Cinturón de Miseria.

San Cristóbal was catapulted into the international limelight on January 1, 1994, when Zapatista rebels selected it as one of four places in which to launch their revolution, seizing and sacking government offices in the city center before being driven out within a few days by the Mexican army.

Recent history

Zapatista insurgency continues. In 2006, the rebels returned to San Cristóbal to launch 'The Other Campaign', a campaign in which rebels toured Mexico to spread their message.

Despite political and social tensions, San Cristóbal's future as a magnet for travelers looks secure, with a burgeoning tourist sector and cultural scene, a booming property market and a growing middle class.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

San Cristóbal has a very temperate climate. The rainy season is from May to October, with the heaviest rainfall in June, September and early October - mornings often start dry and fairly bright, but are often followed by heavy afternoon downpours. Between November and April, warm sunny days are the norm. The hottest months are April and May, when temperatures climb to 35°C (95°F).

Average weather

• Temperature
• Rainfall

Transport

Getting around

Combis go up Rosas from the Pan-American Hwy to the city center. Taxis are available within the city; rates increase after 23:00. Los Pingüinos rents decent-quality mountain bikes with a lock and maps. You'll need to deposit your passport or credit card. It can also advise on good and safe routes. Also friendly, Croozy Scooters, run by a pair of young Australians, rents well-maintained 90cc scooters. The price includes insurance, maps and helmets; deposit your passport.

Getting there and away

San Cristóbal's airport, about 15km (9.3mi) from the city center, has no regular passenger flights.

There are around a dozen bus terminals, mostly on or just off the Pan-American Hwy. The 1st-class terminal of OCC, is also used by ADO and UNO 1st-class and deluxe buses, and 2nd-class Transportes Dr Rodulfo Figueroa (TRF) buses. Tickets for these lines are sold at Ticket Bus in the center of town. The Avisa (2nd-class) terminal is west of OCC along the highway; 1st-class AEXA and 2nd-class Ómnibus de Chiapas share a terminal on the south side of the highway; various vans and colectivo (shared) taxi services have depots on the highway in the same area.

Car rental is available; discounts may apply if you pay in cash.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Though there have been no notable Zapatista-related incidents affecting travelers for some time, those planning to travel off the main roads in the Chiapas highlands, the Ocosingo area and far eastern Chiapas should keep an ear to the ground. Take local advice about places to avoid.

In San Cristóbal itself and along the main roads, politically related dangers are minimal. The far east of Chiapas, through which the Carretera Fronteriza passes, is an area where illegal drugs and migrants are smuggled into Mexico. It has a dangerous reputation - be gone before dark.

Highway holdups targeting tourist-carrying vehicles are a danger on Hwy 199 between Ocosingo and Palenque. Travel by day, preferably early, to minimize risk.

Indigenous villages are often very close-knit. Their people can be suspicious of outsiders, particularly those with cameras. You may put yourself in physical danger by taking photos without permission. If in doubt, ask.