New Zealand

This waterside city has a strong pulse and a nautical twinkle in its eye. Its location on a thin stretch of the North Island, sandwiched between the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea, is complemented by the lush subtropical forests of nearby hills and the volcanic terrains of nearby islands.

Before the 20th century

Maori oral history maintains that the Maoris came to the islands of New Zealand in waka (canoes) from other parts of Polynesia. Of all the waka that visited the region, the ones carrying the Tainui, whose descendants were known as Ngaoho, have had the most lasting impact. These waka called in at many places before being hauled across the isthmus where Auckland is now situated to Manukau Harbour. Archaeological evidence of human settlement dates back some 800 years, with the earliest sites mainly located along coastlines and harbour mouths. The picture that emerges is one of a distinctly Polynesian society that depended on fishing, the gathering of shellfish and edible plants and (increasingly as the centuries passed) agriculture. Until the 17th century, when tribes from the north and south challenged the isthmus dwellers, things were relatively peaceful. However, by the time European settlers arrived in 1839, tribal warfare, disease and destruction of the area through hunting and forest clearance had depleted the Maori populations.

A pivotal date for Auckland is 1840. The year began with the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, commonly seen as New Zealand's founding document. In Auckland, local chiefs gathered at Karaka Bay, Awhitu and Mangere to sign or put their marks to the document that promised protection of Maori land if the Maori recognised British sovereignty. In this year too, William Hobson, Lieutenant-Governor of New Zealand, chose Auckland as the capital of the new colony, named for his naval commander George Eden (Lord Auckland). The city retained this distinction until 1865, when Wellington took over as capital.

During the township's early years, relations with the Maori seemed quite cordial. Maoris, in fact, supplied most of the fresh produce for the township; they traded widely and provided labour for public works and other projects. However, despite the treaty, the encroachment of European settlers on Maori land was continuous, leading to a series of skirmishes and conflicts. Barracks were built in Auckland and British troops called up. Most of the fighting took place in Waikato; some, however, occurred on the southern borders of the Auckland region, around Pukekohe and Clevedon. This had a devastating effect on local Maoris and many settlers also suffered heavy losses. Maoris themselves refer to the Land Wars of the 1840-60s as Te Riri Pakeha (White Man's Anger), and claim, as did some European observers of the day, that they were only defending their land and their culture. The result was massive confiscations of land, the ramifications of which are still being addressed today.

Modern history

The turn of the 20th century was an era of social and economic reform that made New Zealand a world leader in social welfare: the vote for women, the old-age pension, a national child-welfare program, minimum wages and a 40-hour working week were all brought in. However, the country suffered heavily in WWI, with one in every three men aged between 20 and 40 killed or wounded fighting for Britain. The suffering continued during the Great Depression and WWII, when war was declared in the Pacific, and New Zealand was directly threatened. The Pacific War also brought many American servicemen to Auckland, and their influence still remains in some quarters. Things began looking up again in the post-war years, especially when Auckland hosted the Empire Games in 1950.

In the 1980s New Zealand declared itself a nuclear-free state, causing some friction with the US, whose warships were refused entry, and the French, who were testing nuclear weapons in the Pacific. In 1985 French secret service agents sank the Greenpeace ship Rainbow Warrior in Auckland Harbour. The 70s and 80s also saw further friction between indigenous and non-indigenous populations, with a resurgence of Maori consciousness. In 1985 the Treaty of Waitangi was revisited, and while race relations remain an issue, Maori culture is now a significant part of the city's self-image.

Recent history

Perhaps the most significant event of the 1990s - at least a great cause for national celebration - was New Zealand boat Black Magic's historic win in the America's Cup race in 1995. Auckland's waterfront was given a facelift for the event in 2000, when the triumph was repeated. Team New Zealand subsequently lost 2003's challenge to landlocked Switzerland - whose boat was skippered and crewed by NZers. Auckland is the fastest growing city in New Zealand and it shows no signs of slowing down.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

• 

  SPQR

  Auckland

  Dress up for a night out at this ivy-covered hot spot, well known for Roman-style ...

  more

  

  2 ratings

  1 review

With a mild climate and stunning natural surroundings, Aucklanders are bound to lead a healthy outdoor lifestyle. Boating is an Auckland institution: there are some 80,000 pleasure boats in the city. The plentiful beaches also offer swimming, surfing and other water sports.

Top Attractions

Stevenson Discovery Centres Parnell 0 ratings 0 reviews	Alberton House Mt Albert 0 ratings 0 reviews
John Leech Gallery City Centre 0 ratings 0 reviews	NZ Film Archives Newton 0 ratings 0 reviews

Auckland's maritime climate ensures that temperatures never go to the extremes they would if the city were landlocked. Temperatures usually stay in the mid 20°s (high 70°Fs) in summer, and rarely fall near freezing in winter (June-August) - although the ground in some sheltered low-lying areas may at times receive a coating of frost. In summer the weather can become quite humid.

Average weather

• Temperature
• Humidity am/pm
• Rainfall
• Sunshine

Transport

Getting around

Due to rampant privatisation during the 1980s, Auckland's public transport system is run by a hodgepodge of different operators, none of which seem to co-operate. As a result there are few integrated public transport passes. The Auckland Regional Council is trying to sort out the mess and runs the excellent Maxx (www.maxx.co.nz) information service, covering buses, trains and ferries. The website has an excellent trip-planning feature.

Getting there and away

Most international flights to New Zealand go through Auckland. Direct flights connect to and from west coast USA; east coast Australia and Perth; London and Frankfurt, and several cities in Asia.

There are regular bus services between Auckland and most larger towns and tourist areas; they operate from the SkyCity Coach Terminal on Hobson St. There's an early morning train to Wellington daily, stopping at a number of tourist destinations.

Hiring a car and driving around New Zealand is easy.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Although it's no more dangerous than other developed-country cities, violent crime does happen in Auckland, so it's worth taking sensible precautions on the streets at night.

Theft, primarily from cars, is a major problem, and travellers are viewed as easy marks. Avoid leaving valuables in vehicles, no matter where it's parked. If the crown jewels simply must be left behind, pack them out of sight in the boot (trunk) of the car - but carry your passport with you, just in case.