Peru

A vast, polluted metropolis in the middle of Peru's desert coastline, Lima is an economic magnet for struggling highland and Amazonian villagers. A vibrant city with friendly people, it quickly snares the curious traveler with fine museums, striking architecture and richly historical neighborhoods.

Before the 20th century

The fertile valleys surrounding modern-day Lima supported agriculture-based settlements from around 5000 BC onwards, evidence of which has been found throughout the city. It is believed that a series of droughts and severe flooding destroyed these early communities. The most significant site from this period is the temple complex at Pachacmac which remained a place of pilgrimage and worship for peoples throughout pre-Columbian Peru, including the Wari and the Inca, until it was ransacked by the Spaniards.

The city of Lima began life in 1535 courtesy of Francisco Pizarro, who founded the city on January 6, the same day as the Catholic feast of Epiphany, or Day of the Kings - Lima is often referred to as the City of Kings. Subsequent disputes over jurisdictional powers broke out among the Spanish conquistadors and, in 1541, a member of a conflicting Spanish faction assassinated Pizarro in Lima. In 1569, the Spanish colonial administrator Francisco de Toledo arrived in Peru. Over the ensuing 14 years, he established a highly effective, although harshly repressive, system of government. Toledo's method of administration consisted of a government of Spanish officials ruling through lower-level Peruvian officials who dealt directly with the indigenous population. This system lasted for almost 200 years.

Lima continued to grow in importance and, in 1551, the University of San Marcos, the first in the New World, was founded here. In 1567, the Jesuits arrived, immediately founding schools and colleges - they also introduced the printing press. Owing to its harbor at nearby Callao, the town of Lima developed rapidly and was the center of the Spanish trade monopoly, which lasted until the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713.

Argentinian General José de San Martín proclaimed Peru's independence from Spain on July 28, 1821 in Lima. It was later, during the government of Mariscal Ramon Castilla, that a railway was built between the cities of Lima and Callao, the first railway in South America. During this time, gaslight and the telegraph were installed and slavery was abolished.

In 1881, Lima was attacked during a war with Chile. The national library was turned into a barrack, and many valuable books and manuscripts were destroyed or sold as waste paper. Works of art were carried away or broken by the victorious Chileans, who occupied the town for nearly three years. After the attack, Lima endured the political rivalries of Cáceres and Iglesias, and there was civil unrest until Nicolas de Piérola became president for a second time in 1895.

Modern history

Life was more or less rosy in Lima until about 1920, when there was a sudden population growth. This was a result of the city's rapid urbanization and industrialization, which generated a wealth that was simply not trickling down to the rural areas. Rural Peruvians began flocking into Lima, putting enormous strains on the city's infrastructure. In 1919, the urban population stood at 173,000; within 20 years, it had trebled.

Recent history

Lima's growth - and growing pains - have continued at an astonishing pace and the city has become too big to support itself. With only a few wealthy and middle class suburbs, the majority of people live in poverty with inadequate housing and a lack of food, and unemployment is rife. As the population continues to expand, it seems Lima will end up swelling beyond bursting point.

On March 20, 2002, a few days before a visit by US President Bush, a car bomb exploded near the US Embassy in Lima, killing 10 people. It was thought to have been detonated by the guerrilla group Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path), who had caused political instability throughout the 1980s. In May 2003, the government declared a state of emergency when teachers, farmers and government workers went on strike for a month. The recent re-emergence of the Shining Path rebels, and the concurrent growth in cocaine manufacturing and shipping activities in rural areas, are equally troubling.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Lima is warm and sticky across the seasons, with very little rainfall. January through March brings warm, humid days with temperatures of about 26°C (79°F), and nightly lows which hover around a pleasant 20°C (68°F). The afternoon humidity relaxes a little during March and April, and the sun washes over the countryside. Between April and December, however, garúa (coastal fog) shrouds the sun.

Average weather

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Transport

Getting there and away

Lima's Aeropuerto Internacional Jorge Chávez (tel: 595 0606; www.lap.com.pe) services most international and domestic flights. Dozens of non-Peruvian airlines fly into Lima from North, Central and South America and Europe. Peru is vast - it's worth considering domestic flights. LAN Peru and Taca offer domestic flights, as do Aero Condor Perú, Star Perú and Tans Perú. There's a departure tax (cash only, payable in Peruvian soles or US dollars) of about 28.00 on international flights and around 6.00 on domestic flights.

The airport is best served by taxi. Buses ply the route south along Alfonso Ugarte for a pittance but are not recommended if you have a lot of luggage. From Lima, flagging a taxi on the street and bargaining can be cheap. There are also hotel buses but these require advance booking and are usually not cheap.

Buses are slow, but they do service Lima from Bolivia, Chile and Ecuador. You'll need to produce your passport at several checkpoints along the way. Interprovincial buses cover long-distance trips. From Lima, there are buses going to all major cities and towns, though the level of comfort and service varies. Armed robberies on night buses are not unheard of, so travel on a day bus (or fly) if you have the option.

You can access Lima's port of Callao by ocean liner and cheaper freight vessels. However, departures are infrequent and often expensive. If you crave adventure, travel by riverboat from Colombia or the mouth of the Amazon in Brazil to Iquitos. Be warned though, the journey is not easy and conditions are far from luxurious.

Lima is the starting point for the Ferrocarril Central Andino, the highest railway in the world. The breathtaking trip to Huancayo is a must for train buffs, but services usually run only during summer holidays.

Getting around

The local buses are called micros and combis (minibuses or vans). Although cheap, they're almost always crowded beyond bursting point and belongings can go 'missing'. When getting off a bus, call baja (go down) or a la esquina (at the corner). Local buses service all parts of Lima, including Miraflores and Barranco. Combi routes are usually not numbered, so listen for the conductor to yell out the names of the major streets and destinations.

There are taxis everywhere in Lima, though most of them are unofficial. Official registered taxis, which can be called by phone or picked up at taxi stands outside hotels and shopping malls, are considered the safest mode of transport. You can flag down a cab in the street but this is risky. Always settle on a price before you get in. Meters are not used.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Lima suffers from opportunistic crime. While you are unlikely to get physically hurt, travelers do regularly have their belongings stolen and muggings can happen. The basic precaution is to look as little like an affluent traveler as possible: don't wear expensive watches or jewelry; use a small pocket-sized camera; carry your money as loose pocket change; move around confidently; and don't use a map unless seated at a cafe or restaurant: it's a dead giveaway.

Central Lima and the area around the bus terminals have many pickpockets, but even ritzy Miraflores has opportunist thieves. Take extra care on the beaches with your belongings, and look out for gangs of youths playing soccer - they've been known to mug hapless lone travelers. Use taxis to get around at night, and generally adapt a streetwise attitude to keep out of potential strife.