Senegal

Tropical Senegal is lauded for beauties both natural and urbane. With its suave capital, Dakar - many travellers' favourite amongst the larger African cities - and its entourage of internationally known musicians, Senegal brings in more visitors than any other country in the region.

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Senegal's climate is pleasantly tropical, with Dakar ranking as one the coolest, breeziest spots in West Africa. The country's average daily temperatures range from 18°C (65°F) to 31°C (87°F). In the north and central parts, the wet season lasts from July to September, while in the Casamance it's about a month longer on either end. Rainfall averages range from 300mm (12in) in the north to as much as six times that in the south; Dakar gets over 600mm (24in) annually. The dry season (December to April) is the time of the hot, dry harmattan winds.

Transport

Getting there and away

There are plenty of good connections between Europe and Senegal, particularly from Paris, which is well-served by regular flights as well as charter companies. Senegal is also well linked to other destinations in Africa, including Bamako, Banjul, Abidjan, Bissau, Nairobi, Addis Abeba and Johannesburg. There's even a direct connection to New York with South African Airways. Most airline offices are on or near the Place de l'Indépendance in Dakar, as are most travel agencies, some of which can have better deals.

The main entry points to the Gambia are along the Trans-Gambia Highway, at Karang and between Vélingara and Basse Sante Su, although there are many more routes.

Bush taxis run regularly from Dakar to Rosso, at Senegal's border with Mauritania, from where you catch a pirogue across the river. The whole journey can be done in a day if you leave early. Bush taxis also run from Tambacounda (12 hours from Dakar) to Labé, Guinea, though if you take that option be prepared for a long and rocky ride. Bissau can be reached by bush taxi from Ziguinchor.

Banjul is easily reached by road, and there are frequent bush taxis from Dakar.

The Dakar-Bamako train is the classic way to travel overland to Mali, though it's notoriously unreliable and derailments are frequent. There are two trains, one on Wednesdays and one on Saturday: each takes 40 hours. The train has a bar-restaurant car, or you can buy cheap food at stations along the way. Hold on tight to your valuables: this train is a notorious haunt for pickpockets.

Getting around

Air Sénégal International has daily flights from Dakar to Ziguinchor, and less frequent connections to Cap Skiring (only during high season), Tambacounda and Saint-Louis.

The main roads between Dakar, Kaolack, Ziguinchor and other large towns are covered by buses (cars mourides, buses carrying 30 to 40 people) and Ndiaga Ndiaye (minibuses with between 15 and 30 seats).

The best option for long-distance travel is a sept-place taxi (bush taxi). On the main routes, these are usually Peugeot 504s with three rows of seats, and though they are fairly battered, and you're squeezed in with 6 other passengers, they are your safest, most comfortable and reliable option of travel. Fares are reasonable; buses are about a third the price of bush taxis (though you pay in travel time and fatigue), and minibuses are somewhere in between. There's normally a small extra charge for luggage.

Train services around Senegal have been cut and your options are limited to a twice-weekly service to Thiés and Tambacounda (and on to Bamako in Mali).

An excellent ferry service runs between Dakar and Ziguinchor. It adheres to international standards of safety, is reliable and tends to be a lot more comfortable than travel by battered bush taxi (and cheaper than flying).

Car hire is not cheap - often twice as much as hiring a taxi's service for the same long-distance drive - but many of the big international companies have offices in Dakar. Some smaller outfits have cheaper deals available.

Health & Legal Requirements

Visas overview

Visas are required for all foreigners, except nationals of Canada, the EU, ECOWAS countries, Israel, Japan, South Africa and the US, who may visit for up to 90 days without a visa.