Spain

It may seem an austere city, with its dark stonework and a reputation for reactionary politics, but a healthy Basque culture enlivens Pamplona, the capital of the fiercely independent Navarra. Enjoy meanderings along narrow streets or relax in the vast green belt on the edge of the inner city.

Before the 20th century

The Romans called the city Pompaelo, after its founder, Roman general Pompey the Great. It was a significant town by the 2nd century, complete with baths and a forum. The Romans were succeeded by the Visigoths and then, briefly, by the Muslims. Navarra has been a melting pot of dynastic, political and cultural aspirations and tensions, ever since Charlemagne rampaged across the Pyrenees from France in 778. The city achieved great things under Sancho III in the 11th century and its position on the Camino de Santiago ensured its prosperity.

In the 15th century, Pamplona and its kingdom were captured and assimilated by the Kingdom of Castile and consequently became autonomous.

Philip II ordered the southwest of the city, the citadel, to be reconstructed and Pamplona soon became a fortress.

The 19th century saw many regional wars. At the time of the Napoleonic Wars, Pamplona was occupied by the French (1808-13). Pamplona fought in favour of the Isabelian monarchy during the Carlist Wars of 1833 and 1872, unlike Navarra, which fought for Don Carlos.

Modern history

Pamplona's bullring was rebuilt in 1923. It seats 19,529 people, and is the third largest in the world, after the bullrings of Mexico and Madrid.

Pamplona is home to both the Universidid de Navarra, founded in 1952, and the Universidid Publica de Navarra, established in 1987 by the government of Navarra.

Twentieth-century prosperity saw an expansion of the city. While Pamplona has maintained its medieval layout and fort, the centre has slowly expanded to include suburbs.

Miguel Indurain is quite possibly Pamplona's favourite son. He won the Tour de France fives times, from 1991 to 1995.

Recent history

In 2003 an increase in Pamplona's population was recorded. This was most likely due to a rise in immigration, particularly from South America, with much employment offered at the Volkswagon factory in Landaben.

Pamplona's local football team is CA Osasuna and their home ground is Estadio Reyno de Navarra. The stadium, formerly called El Sadar, has a capacity of 19,553 people.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Pamplona's sub-Mediterranean climate means that weather can change dramatically from one season to the next.

The cold kicks in around late October and can get quite chilly with temperatures in the single digits. Winter also falls victim to sporadic showers typical of the Basque country at this time of year, so grab that extra layer when venturing out in the evening.

Temperatures can sizzle during summer, regularly hitting the mid-thirties (mid-nineties Fahrenheit), and are often very dry. Storms have also been known to break the heat, so you'll need to pack your umbrella with your sunscreen.

Generally, Pamplona enjoys a mild climate. Spring and autumn are great times to visit as the weather is near perfect, with moderate sunny days and practically no crowds.

Average weather

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Transport

Getting there and away

Pamplona's airport, about 7km (4mi) south of the city, has regular flights to Madrid and Barcelona. There's an ATM and car rental desks. Bus 16 from the main bus station (25min) drops you down the hill from the airport, so heavy cases are a genuine drag.

From the main bus station (Calle Conde Oliveto 8) buses leave for most towns throughout Navarra, although service is restricted on Sunday. Regular buses run to Bilbao (1.75hr), Vitoria (1.5hr), Logroño (1.5hr), San Sebastián (1hr), Soria (2hr), Madrid (5hr) and Barcelona (5hr). Regional destinations include Olite (40min, 16 buses daily), Javier (1hr, 2 daily), Estella (1hr, 10 daily), Tudela (1.75hr, 8 daily) and Puente La Reina (30min, 10 daily).

Trains run to/from Madrid (4.5hr, 3 daily), Barcelona (6hr, 3 daily), San Sebastián (2hr, 3 daily), Vitoria (1hr, 4 daily) and Tudela (1.5hr, 5 daily).

The A15 autopista connects Pamplona with San Sebastián, although the N121 is a more scenic - and free - alternative. The N135 leads east into the Pyrenees, while the N240 heads west to Vitoria and Burgos and east to Aragón. For Logroño take the N111.

Getting around

Pamplona is a relatively easy city to navigate with most things within walking distance. For longer trips within the city, urban buses, or villavesas, are the way to go with more than 20 bus lines operating during the day and 9 at night.

Pamplona's train station is linked to the city centre by bus 9 from Paseo de Sarasate every 15 minutes. Tickets are also sold at the Renfe agency (Calle de Estella 8; 09:00-13:30 & 16:30-19:30 Mon-Fri, 09:30-13:00 Sat).

There are two taxi companies in town: Radio Taxi (948 221 212) & Tele Taxi (948 232 300 or 948 230 000). It is difficult to hail a taxi on the street in Pamplona, so calling ahead is recommended.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

El Encierro, or 'the running of the bulls', takes place from 6 to 14 July each year. Since records began in 1924, 13 people have been killed. Many of those who run are full of bravado (and/or alcohol), and have little idea of what they're doing. This is not an activity to be recommended as it is indeed dangerous, but if you're tempted, try to run with someone experienced. Above all, don't get trapped near a bull that has been separated from the herd - a lone, frightened 500kg bull surrounded by charging humans can be lethal. Keeping ahead of the herd is the general rule. As part of your preparation, familiarise yourself with the course. For more info check out www.sanfermin.com.