Thailand

Known to its inhabitants as the ‘City of Angels’ and the political and spiritual capital of Thailand, Bangkok is a melting pot of experiences and you’ll soon be swept up in the buzz of this fascinating destination. A vast, sprawling city, the list of things to see and do is endless. Amongst the highlights, make sure you save time to visit The Grand Palace with its gleaming spires and nearby Buddhist temples; take a cruise along the Chao Phraya river, and visit one of the floating markets. And after all that culture, enjoy a spot of retail therapy in one of the impressive shopping malls.

Before the 20th century

Before becoming Thailand's capital in 1782, Bang Makok or 'Place of Olives' (now Bangkok) was an outlying district of Thonburi, a town founded as a trading post in the mid-16th century. Due to its proximity to Siam's capital, Ayuthaya, the town also developed military significance. In the 18th century a fortress was built on the banks of the Chao Phraya and a great iron chain hung across the river to block unwelcome arrivals.

In 1782, King Rama I, the founder of the long-running Chakri dynasty, moved the capital to Bangkok on the other side of the river, believing it was an easier location to defend. Using thousands of Khmer prisoners of war, city walls were built, the canal system was expanded, and new temples were erected by artisans from Ayuthaya. When the construction of the new capital was finished in 1785, it was given a new name: a tongue-twister comprising 164 letters which referred modestly to divine gems, unconquerable lands and divine shelters. The name was mercifully shortened to Krung Thep ('City of Angels'), but the city is still known by its old Bangkok moniker to most of the outside world.

The first half of the 19th century in Bangkok saw a frenzy of temple building under the rule of Rama III, while the definitive moment of his successor's turn at the throne was the construction of the city's first road alongside the river in 1861. More roads were soon added and, well before the turn of the century, horse-drawn carriages and rickshaws had replaced watercraft as the favoured mode of urban travel.

Modern history

In the first decades of the 20th century the city grew in all directions and numerous roadways were added to carry new motorised forms of transport. In 1932 Thailand established a constitutional government and Bangkok became the hub of a vast but still expanding public service. In WWII the Japanese briefly occupied parts of the city and following the war Bangkok quickened its pace towards modernisation. From the mid-1960s the city became a favourite 'rest and recreation' spot for foreign troops involved in the Vietnam conflict and the sex trade continues to this day in the form of various nightclubs and massage parlours. After riding a double-digit economic boom through the 1980s, Bangkok was hit hard by the economic crisis that swept Asia in 1997 - a crisis that came with warning signs which few local and international observers chose to acknowledge.

Recent history

Today Bangkok can be found reprising its role as the financial hub of mainland Southeast Asia. In 2000, charismatic conservative warhorse Samak Sundaravej unexpectedly won the city's governorship on an anti-corruption platform. He subsequently had a curse placed on the city's crooked cops.

In 2003, the revelations by massage parlour owner Chuwit Kamolvisit of the seedier side of the industry - and police involvement therein - led to a major political scandal. But 2004 proved to be no less eventful. The avian flu crisis saw large swathes of the city temporarily quarantined while thousands of birds were slaughtered. Planned reforms of zoning regulations, intended to close all entertainment establishments by midnight, reportedly led to a mafia revolt and government capitulation, but not without drawing widespread public condemnation. Then resentment overflowed when plans were announced to privatise utility companies.

In early 2006, controversy in the capital revolved around the tax-free sale of Prime Minister Thaksin's telecommunications business after passing favourable legislation. Protesters took to the streets to demand his resignation over this blatant conflict of interest. The city was split neatly into two long-standing social classes: the wealthy intelligentsia against Thaksin and the working class who support him. Thaksin held a snap election, which resulted in even more controversy and his decision to step down as prime minister. The street protests ceased in part out of respect for the King who celebrated his 60th year on the throne in June 2006.

But in September 2006, the instability led to a military coup against Thaksin's caretaker government. The coup leaders suspended the Constitution, banned all political activity and protests, censored the media, arrested members of Parliament, declared martial law, dissolved Parliament and cancelled upcoming elections. With interim Prime Minister Surayud Chulanont at their head, they undertook to restore democratic government within a year. Following a successful referendum on a draft constitution, general elections were held at the end of December 2007. Samak Sundaravej of the People's Power Party (Palang Prachachon) became Prime Minister in January 2008.

Top Accommodation

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  Mandarin Oriental Bangkok

  Bangkok

  Bangkok's oldest and most celebrated hotel

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Top Restaurants

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  Mandarin Oriental Bangkok

  Bangkok

  Bangkok's oldest and most celebrated hotel

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  The Peninsula Bangkok

  Bangkok

  Facing the west bank of Chao Phraya River.

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Bangkok has the usual array of sporting and fitness possibilities you'd expect in a city of this size, including golf, swimming, squash, bowling, gyms and even polo. You can also learn Thai boxing or one of several strains of Thai martial arts.

Thailand has a tropical climate with hot weather between March and May. The monsoon runs from June to October when it’s still hot and humid with torrential rains. The best time to travel is November to February when it’s cooler. Southern islands are best from June to September.

Average weather

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Transport

Getting there and away

Bangkok is a major travel hub, so it has plenty of direct flights from capital cities in Asia, Australia, Canada, Continental Europe, the UK and USA. Bangkok is one of the cheapest cities in the world to fly out of, due to the Thai government's loose restrictions on air fares and close competition between airlines and travel agencies.

Bus and train services to southeast Asian countries are not so reliable, direct or fast.

Getting around

Getting around Bangkok may be difficult for the uninitiated, but once you're familiar with the transport system the whole city is accessible. The main obstacle is traffic, which moves at a snail's pace during the day. This means advance planning is a must when you're attending scheduled events or making appointments. If you can, avoid the traffic and travel by river, canal or Skytrain.

Bangkok was once called the 'Venice of the East', but much of the original canal system has been filled in for road construction. Many smaller canals are hopelessly polluted and would probably have been filled in by now if it weren't for their important drainage function. Fortunately, in recent years several canal-boat services have been revived on the medium-sized canals.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Considering its size, Bangkok is a relatively safe city. But you should be smart: don't wander down dark alleyways alone and always protect against theft (use a hotel safe and conceal valuables). You are more likely to be conned out of your money than have it forcibly removed. Be wary of friendly strangers offering touring advice: this is usually a long and costly introduction to the gem scams, in which travellers are sold worthless jewels and jewellery for a king's ransom. Tuk tuk drivers offering 10.00 rides are another gateway into the scam scene: tailors that overcharge, jewellery stores selling costume as heirlooms, etc. Ignore anyone who says that the Skytrain or major attractions are closed for a holiday or cleaning. This is yet another popular start to the gem scam. More likely to happen in the girlie-bar world are druggings with cigarettes, food and drink followed by a house cleaning of valuables.