Party island Ko Samui has long been the locale of choice for paradise-seeking voyagers of all stripes. Its turquoise waters and sun-bleached, sandy bays are lined with multiple bungalows and resorts, a plethora of restaurants to satisfy hungry epicureans, and thumping nightlife providing a soundtrack to the temperate, starry nights.
Before the 20th century
Ko Samui was first settled by sea-farers from Hainan Island in southwest China, and coconut cultivation was the main activity long before jet-skis and swimming pools became the norm. Perhaps due to this early influence, Samui culture differs from that of other islands in southern Thailand; and its inhabitants refer to themselves as chao samǔi (Samui folk) rather than Thais.
Modern history
Drawn by the island's white-sand-fringed coconut plantations and simple farming way of life, Samui was 'discovered' by intrepid globetrotters over 30 years ago.
Word about this hidden paradise spread fast, and during the '80s Samui burst onto the international radar among renowned hot spots like Bali and Goa. Since then, transport infrastructure to the island has improved dramatically and Samui has boomed becoming an accessible slice of tropical life for the masses.
Recent history
Nowadays many of the resorts, restaurants, bars and other tourist enterprises are owned or operated by Bangkok Thais or Europeans, so you have to get into the villages to meet true chao samǔi.
Today you can choose to stay in thousands of different rooms and bungalows, from fan shacks to presidential suites. You can dine in cloth-napkin style with full silver service or grab a hamburger faster than you can say takeaway.
Busy shopping strips peddle fashion knock-offs and, come nightfall, thump with bars flogging beer, cocktails and fun well into the night.
And if all this holidaying in Thailand is stressing you out, spas and health resorts cater to the 'wellness' holiday market and promise to pamper you back to strength.
Rapid development has not come without a price, however. Environmental concerns are often swept aside in the scramble to build and the one million annual visitors to the island are starting to put a strain on resources.
Samui residents and businesspeople are starting to formulate policies to deal with the social and environmental challenges of development.
Top Accommodation
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Banyan Tree Samui
Koh Samui
Tropical getaway situated in the private cove of eastern Koh Samui
Top Restaurants
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W Retreat Koh Samui
Koh Samui
W Retreat boasts a ‘Whatever Whenever’ tailor-made concierge service
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Six Senses Samui
Koh Samui
Fantastic panoramas out to the Gulf of Thailand
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Banyan Tree Samui
Koh Samui
Tropical getaway situated in the private cove of eastern Koh Samui
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Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui
Koh Samui
An exotic hillside retreat
Top Attractions
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Hin Lat Falls
Samui Highlands 
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Ang Thong National Marine Park
E of Ko Samui
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Na Muang Falls
Samui Highlands
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Wat Hin Lat
Samui Highlands
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A Perfect Day
By Brandon Presser
The ultimate day on Samui is all about indulgence. I like to start the day lying on the powder-soft sands of Chaweng Beach - undoubtedly the island's best beach (even though it's the most built-up). Lunch is a must before leaving the area. Although some of the foodie favourites are only open in the evening, there's still a vast assortment of places to tempt the palate. I like nursing a fruit smoothie while soaking up the ultra-chic, ultra-minimal atmosphere at the Library. Guests at this five-star resort are jetsetter types. It's a great place for people-watching - beach bums ogle supermodels as they relax in the red-tiled swimming pool, giving new meaning to the term 'skinny dip'. If the blend of sand and wind isn't a strong enough exfoliant, then an afternoon at the spa is a must. All of the island's five-star resorts have excellent spas but my favourite pampering spots are Tamarind Springs, Anantara and the Hideaway spa at the Sila Evason. A good pummelling sets me back a couple thousand baht, but it is well worth the price - afterwards I feel like I'm walking on air. The island's east coast is a popular spot for evenings eats, but I like to have dinner along Samui's northern shore. There's Ko Seng, a local haunt hidden deep within Mae Nam serving the freshest crab with cracked pepper, and for special occasions, I like to hit up Dining On The Rocks, the Sila Evason's star restaurant. The menu is decidedly experimental; each dish in the ten-course sampler is the brainchild of an experimental chef, who dabbles with taste, texture and temperature. Late nights in Chaweng are tops. Ark Bar is a personal favourite - the bright lights and labyrinth of triangular pillows lure revellers of every ilk.
The best time to visit the Samui group of islands is during the hot, dry season from February to late June. From July to October, during the southwest monsoon, it can rain intermittently, and from October to January, during the northeast monsoon, there are sometimes strong winds. However, many travellers have reported sunny weather (and fewer crowds) in September and October. November tends to get some of the rain that also affects the east coast of Malaysia at this time.
Average weather
Main Currency
Currency: Baht (THB)
Symbol: Bht
Transport
Getting there and away
Bangkok Airways has at least a dozen flights daily between Ko Samui and Bangkok (1.25hours). There is a Bangkok Airways Office (tel: 0 7742 0512-9) in Chaweng and another at the airport (tel: 0 7742 5011).
Other daily destinations from Samui include Phuket (50min) and Pattaya (1hr). During the high season, flights may be completely booked out as much as six weeks in advance, so be sure to plan accordingly. If Samui flights are full, you might try flying to Surat Thani first, then taking a boat.
The ferry situation is complicated: there are four ferry piers on the Surat Thani coast (Ao Ban Don, Tha Thong, Don Sak and Khanom) and three on Ko Samui (Na Thon, Mae Nam and Big Buddha). When going to Ko Samui, the boat (and pier) you use will probably depend on what's available next when you arrive in Surat Thani.
Schedules and prices are always in flux. Expect more departures during the busy season and fewer during the rainy times. Tickets from a travel agency cost more but include a transfer to the pier.
There are frequent daily boat departures between Samui and Surat Thani (1½ to 3hr), depending on the boat and almost 10 daily departures between Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan. Boats to Ko Pha-Ngan (20min to 1hr) leave either from the Na Thong, Mae Nam or Big Buddha piers on Samui.
It can be cheaper and less stressful to get bus/ferry combination tickets that take you all the way to (and from) Ko Samui. Both government buses from Bangkok's Southern bus terminal and private buses include the cost of the ferry. Private buses charge a flat fare and are slightly cheaper, while government buses offer various classes up to VIP. It's possible to get cheaper bus/ferry combination tickets on Th Khao San in Bangkok, but service is substandard.
From Na Thon on Ko Samui, air-con buses fan out over Thailand and there are at least three daily departures for any given destination.
The railway network in Thailand is run by the government-subsidised State Railway of Thailand (SRT; www.railway.co.th). The standard of service is excellent and this is certainly one of the most pleasant ways to get around the kingdom.
The line that most island-bound travellers use is the southern route with stops at Hua Hin, Surat Thani (the transfer point to Ko Samui), Trang and the border with Malaysia. Currently, trains are slightly slower than buses.
You can buy train/ferry tickets straight through to Samui from Bangkok. Buying these combination tickets saves you some hassle.
If you plan on doing a lot of rail travel, the SRT offers a rail pass that allows unlimited 2nd- and 3rd-class travel on Thai trains. If you're just travelling in southern Thailand, the rail pass probably won't save you much money, but it can be a good deal if you are also planning to visit the north.
Getting around
From most expensive to cheapest - private taxis, minivans and sǎwngthǎew meet flights at the airport to run passengers to accommodation points across the island.
Sǎwngthǎew and motorcycle taxis also provide local transport around the island - the drivers love to try to overcharge you, so it's always best to ask a third party for current rates. These vehicles run regularly during daylight hours only.
You can rent motorcycles (and bicycles) from several places in Na Thon, Chaweng and Lamai, as well as from various bungalows around the island. For longer rentals try to negotiate a better rate.
Suzuki Caribbean jeeps can be hired from various travel agencies.
Health & Legal Requirements
Dangers and annoyances
The rate of road fatalities on Samui is quite high, due mainly to tourists who rent motorcycles only to find that winding roads, stray dogs and trucks can be lethal. If you rent a motorcycle, protect yourself by wearing a helmet, shoes and appropriate clothing when driving. Beware of snatch thieves; a bag or purse left in the basket of a motorcycle - even while you're driving - is a prime target.
Theft continues to be a problem, particularly along the popular beaches of Chaweng, Lamai and Mae Nam. If you're staying in a beach bungalow, consider depositing your valuables with the management while on excursions around the island or while you're swimming at the beach.
Take care when making train and bus bookings: bookings sometimes aren't made at all, the bus turns out to be far inferior to the one expected or other hassles develop. In another scam involving air tickets, agents say economy class is fully booked and that only business class is available. The agent then sells the customer an air ticket - at business-class prices of course - that turns out to be economy class.
fast facts
| Full name | Ko Samui |
|---|---|
| Currency | Baht, THB (Bht) |
| Population | 45800 |
| Languages |
Thai (official) |
| Time zone(s) | GMT/UTC: +7 |
| Measurements | Metric is widely used, but there are some local variations. |
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