Turkey

With palm-lined streets ringing its bays, and white sugar-cube houses and villas crowding the hillside, Bodrum is the South Aegean's prettiest resort. Boasting a yacht harbour and a port for ferries to the Greek island of Kos, it's no surprise that most of the fun to be had here is in the water.

Before the 20th century

Aeons ago Bodrum, or Halicarnassus of Cariain as it was known in ancient times, rose to fame on the back of the Mausoleum, the spectacular tomb of the Carian King Mausolus. Known for his expertise in the art of war, Mausolus sought to make Halicarnassus a city fit for a warrior prince. The harbour was deepened and breakwaters were built in front of the channel. Most notably, an enormous fortified palace was built on one side of the harbour, giving clear views out to sea and inland towards the hills from where enemies might attack. After his death, his tomb was so impressive that Roman historian Pliny the Elder designated it as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World; it is from here that the word 'mausoleum' derives. Sadly, not much remains to be seen today - despite surviving Alexander III in 334 BC and attacks by pirates in 58 BC, the mausoleum was shattered by a series of earthquakes and by 1404, only the very base remained.

Bodrum local Herodotus (c 485-425 BC), the 'Father of History', was the town's most famous son. He was renowned for his groundbreaking approach to history researching and recording it in the form of a rich and vivid narrative.

Modern history

Between the two World Wars, writer Cevat Şakir Kabaağaç lived in Bodrum in political exile here and wrote an account of idyllic voyages along the Carian and Lycian coasts, then completely untouched by tourism. The 'Fisherman of Halicarnassus' called his most famous book Mavi Yolculuk (Blue Voyage), a name since co-opted for all cruises along these shores. Since then, Bodrum has been a hotspot for creative and intellectual types, resulting in the occasional conflict with advocates of Bodrum's more traditional roots.

Recent history

More recently the late singer Zeki Muran settled in Bodrum, putting it on the map for gay travellers. These days, tourism is the local economy's lifeblood, although there's a plentiful tangerine crop in winter.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Spring (March-May) and autumn (September-November) are the best times to visit Bodrum, with perfect conditions for sightseeing on the Aegean coast.

Bodrum and the Aegean coast experience a moderate Mediterranean climate, with mild winter (December-February) temperatures and hot, humid summers (June-August) when temperatures often rise over 30°C (86°F). Rain is unlikely in the summer months, but winters are wet.

Average weather

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Transport

Getting there and away

The Bodrum international airport (tel: 523 0101) is 60km (37mi) from Bodrum, and is actually nearer to Milas. Check the charter-flight brochures for bargains, especially at the start and end of the season, but prepare to be disappointed as there are fewer flights than you might expect. The Turkish Airlines office is in the Oasis Shopping Centre, about 2km (1.2mi) out of town off the Gümbet road. To get here, take a dolmuş from the otogar and ask for 'Oasis'.

To get to the airport, you can take the Havaş (airport) bus run in conjunction with Turkish Airlines, which leaves from the Turkish Airlines office two hours before all Turkish Airlines departures. It also meets flights and drops passengers at the otogar. If you're not flying with Turkish Airlines, an expensive taxi is really your only option.

Ferries for Datça and the Greek islands of Kos and Rhodes leave from the western bay. For information and tickets contact the Bodrum Ferryboat Association, on the dock past the western entrance to the castle. Check times as they can change.

For Kos, hydrofoils and ferries leave Bodrum. Only ferries operate from November to April, on Monday, Wednesday and Friday (weather permitting).

For Rhodes and Datça, hydrofoils leave Bodrum daily depending on high and low seasons. Check with the Ferryboat Association for details. No same-day returns are available for Datça. The ferry docks at Körmen on the peninsula's northern coast, and the onward bus journey to Datça (15min) is included in your fare. You don't need to book in advance unless you have a car (on the ferries only).

Bodrum has bus services to more or less anywhere you could wish to go. For Gökova, change at Muğla. For Pamukkale, change at Denizli and go from there (14km/9mi).

Major car-rental agencies, including Avis and Thrifty, can be found on Neyzen Tevfik Caddesi.

Getting around

Short hops around town in a dolmuş cost around 0.55.