Hawaii

Hawaii - aka the Big Island - is nearly twice the size of all the other Hawaiian islands combined. Geographically it's the most diverse island of the archipelago, with deserts, rainforests, volcanoes and, surprisingly, snow-capped mountains.

Before the 20th century

The exact origins of the first settlers in Hawaiʻi are unknown. Whether they had their roots in Southeast Asia or whether they originated in Melanesia is a matter of ongoing debate. Either way, their eastward migratory path took them to the southern Polynesian islands of Tonga and Samoa in about 1000 BC. Over the next 1500 years, they migrated to more far-flung areas of Polynesia, with Hawaiʻi being the last region settled; the Hawaiian people and culture flourished in isolation from the rest of the world for more than 1500 years, until the coming of the first European explorers in the late 18th century.

Kamehameha I, 'The Lonely One,' was born in Kohala on the Big Island sometime around 1753. He grew into a strong warrior and respected leader. As a young man, Kamehameha was at Kealakekua Bay in 1779 during the battle with Captain Cook, in which Cook was killed and Kamehameha learned the strategic value of Western firearms. Kamehameha was soon designated as the next guardian of the sacred feather idol representing the war god Kukailimoku (Ku). Still, for the next eight years, Kamehameha fought for supremacy over the Big Island, finally winning out in 1790. He didn't stop there, however; by 1810 he was moʻi (ruling chief of all the Hawaiian islands. Kamehameha I established his royal court on Maui at Lahaina (where it remained until 1845, when King Kamehameha III moved the capital to Honolulu on Oʻahu). He died in 1819.

On January 18, 1778, Captain James Cook sighted the Hawaiian islands. Tragically, 13 months later, while at Kealakekua Bay on the Big Island, Cook, along with some of his crew and many Hawaiians, was killed in a battle spawned by growing tensions between the two groups. After Cook's ships returned to Great Britain without him, news of his discovery quickly spread throughout Europe and the Americas, opening the floodgates to a foreign invasion of other explorers, traders, adventurers, missionaries and fortune seekers. Hawaiʻi became a key factor in the development of the China trade route. Soon whalers found Hawaiʻi to be the perfect mid-ocean waystation, and by the 1840s, Hawaiʻi had become the whaling capital of the Pacific.

In 1820, the first Christian missionaries arrived on the island, and filled the void created by the rulers' decision to overthrow the traditional kapu religious system; they also increased the literacy rate among the local people. In the 1840s, sugar growing began to emerge as a major industry (peaking in 1936). For most of the 19th century, the ruling sovereigns of Hawaiʻi fought off continual efforts by European and American settlers to gain control of the kingdom. Sugar barons made concerted efforts to bring the independent kingdom of Hawai'i into the political and economic sphere of the USA. On January 17, 1893, a group of sugar planters backed a group of US marines to stage a coup, thereby annexing Hawaiʻi. In 1898, congress approved the annexation.

Modern history

Between 1900, when Hawaiʻi became a territory, and 1959, when it was finally declared a state, numerous statehood bills were introduced in Congress, only to be shot down, mainly due to racial prejudice against Hawaiʻi's multicultural population. Congress also thought that Hawaiʻi's remote location in the middle of the Pacific Ocean would make it almost impossible to efficiently conduct essential government business. Hawaiʻi's growing labor unions were a further cause for concern. Several historical events helped to turn the tide in favor of statehood in Congress. In 1936, Pan American Airlines launched the first commercial flights from the US mainland to Hawaiʻi. The installation of wireless telegraph and, later, telephone service between Hawaiʻi and the mainland also put the territory in a better position for statehood. But it was the strategic military role of Pearl Harbor in WWII and the Korean War, and the heroism shown by Americans of Japanese ancestry in those wars, that was probably the impetus for statehood.

In the early 1970s, Hawaiʻi began to experience a resurgence of Hawaiian cultural pride and ethnic identity. Simultaneously, a small group of people throughout the islands were concerned about development cutting off access to traditional gathering grounds, leading to the formation of the Protect Kaho'olawe 'Ohana (PKO), which protested the US Navy's target practice on the nonpopulated island of Kahoʻolawe. Revival of the Hawaiian language has also been a focal point of the Hawaiian renaissance. The University of Hawaiʻi offered Hawaiian-language classes for the first time in the 1970s. In 2003 the university graduated its first student with a master's degree in Hawaiian-language studies.

The topic of Hawaiian sovereignty (or self-determination) has become a highly debated and controversial issue, not only for Hawaiians but for the general community as well. It has been a hot topic of media coverage, local meetings and household discussions.

Recent history

Tourism is arguably the biggest industry on Hawaiʻi; Hawaiʻi has the southernmost point of the US at Ka Lae and it also has the world's largest volcano, Mauna Loa. The Big Island has become famous for its hosting of the Ironman Triathlon World Championship in October, watched by millions around the world each year.

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  Four Seasons Resort Hualalai

  Hawai'i - The Big Island

  Situated on the coast of Hawaii's Big Island

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  Four Seasons Resort Hualalai

  Hawai'i - The Big Island

  Situated on the coast of Hawaii's Big Island

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Big Island; big list of things to do, including surfing (obviously...), swimming, snorkeling, diving, kayaking, windsurfing, kiteboarding, fishing, snuba (cross between scuba diving and snorkeling) hiking, golf, tennis, horseback riding and mountain biking. Whew!

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Chain of Craters Road Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park 0 ratings 0 reviews	Hilo Coffee Mill Hilo 0 ratings 0 reviews
Kaumana Caves Hilo 0 ratings 0 reviews

The biggest climactic factor is location. On the leeward (kona in Hawaiian) side, it's hot and dry, while the windward side is exposed to northeasterly trade winds that bring abundant annual rainfall. Occasionally, during kona weather, winds blow from the south, turning snorkeling spots into surfing spots and vice versa. Kona storms, which usually occur in winter, are very unpredictable. Kona winds also affect the movement of vog (volcanic smog). The climate also varies by elevation; the higher you go, the cooler and rainier it gets. In Volcano, at 1067m (3500ft), the average daily temperature in January is 18°C (65°F), with 4064mm (160in) of rainfall annually. At sea level in Hilo, the average temperature is 26°C (79°F) with almost 3302mm (130in) of rain per year, while in Kona it's 27°C (81°F) with only 1626mm (64in). Hotter and drier still is South Kohala, where Waikoloa receives under 254mm (10in) of rain per year (and Kawaihae's annual total might be only 76mm/3in). Seasonally, November to March is the rainiest period but on the windward side, monthly rainfall averages 254mm (10in). Still, only during storms does it rain all day. Even in Hilo you are almost sure to see some sunshine daily. Average temperatures on Hawai'i vary only mildly from winter to summer. In Waimea and Volcano, however, the weather is chilly, foggy, and often drizzly, which often surprises visitors. And if you plan to ascend the summit of Mauna Kea, be prepared for freezing temperatures.

Transport

Getting around

Most visitors to Hawai'i end up hiring a car. The minimum age for driving a car is 18, but most rental agencies only hire out to people aged over 25. However, Thrifty Car Rental will hire out to those over 21. Other car rental agencies include Alamo (www.alamo.com), Avis (www.avis.com) and Budget (www.budget.com). Traffic congestion can be a problem, particularly at peak times. If you're not interested in driving, you can avail of an Island Air round-trip flight between Hilo and Kona. The 21-minute flight departs once daily from Hilo and Kona.

It's possible to cycle around the Big Island without backtracking, but you'll encounter the gamut of terrain and weather, depending on which side you're on. Remember, the 'Big Island' isn't called that for nothing! And the terrain is hellishly hilly. Bicycle-rental shops are mainly in Kailua-Kona and Hilo.

A Big Island bus journey just isn't practical, but with a little planning you can get yourself between major towns and attractions. Hele-On Bus (www.co.hawaii.hi.us/mass_transit/heleonbus.html), the county public bus, offers minimal islandwide service Monday to Friday, with an even more limited service on Saturday. A few caveats: drivers accept only the exact fare. Alternatively, you can buy a sheet of 10 bus tickets. You need permission from the driver to board with a surfboard, boogie board or bicycle and you will be charged a small fee. Luggage and backpacks also attract a small fee. Buses are rarely on time.

Motorcycle rental is not common in Hawaii. The minimum age to rent one at most places is 21 and you'll need to show a valid motorcycle license. The minimum age for renting a scooter or moped (the former can go highway speeds while the latter is only for around town) is 16 years.

Whether in a car or on a motorcycle, proceed with caution: Big Island drivers accounted for 30% of all car fatalities statewide between 1996 and 2003, though less than 13% of state residents live on the island.

Getting there and away

If you're coming to Hawai'i, then chances are you'll be coming by plane. All international and most domestic flights arrive at Honolulu International Airport, with connections to Hilo International Airport (tel: 935-5707; www.state.hi.us/dot/airports/hawaii/ito) or Kona International Airport at Keahole (tel: 329 3423; www.hawaii.gov/dot/airports/hawaii/koa). From the mainland, you can catch flights from many airports, including, Las Vegas McCarran International Airport; Los Angeles International Airport; New York JFK International Airport; Washington Dulles International Airport; and Chicago O'Hare International Airport. Four airlines service Kona Airport directly: American Airlines (www.aa.com), United Airlines (www.ual.com), Aloha Airlines (www.alohaairlines.com) and Japan Airlines (www.japanair.com). Many of the big name airlines, including Air Canada, Qantas and China Airlines, fly direct to Honolulu.

If you're island-hopping there are four carriers that service the state: Aloha Airlines (www.alohaairlines.com); go! (www.iflygo.com); Hawaiian Airlines (www.hawaiianair.com) and Island Air (www.islandair.com).

Cruise ships - which are becoming more popular around the islands - include Holland America Cruise Line (www.hollandamerica.com), Princess Cruises (www.princess.com) and Norwegian Cruise Line (www.ncl.com).

In response to the increasing costs of inter-island flights, a new ferry service launched in 2007. Hawaii Superferry (www.hawaiisuperferry.com) sails two state-of-the-art catamarans, each carrying up to 900 passengers and almost 300 cars, between Honolulu and Kaua'i, Maui and the Big Island. Travel time to the Big Island's Kawaihae harbor runs at four hours.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Since the 1990s the entire state has been coping with a rampant 'ice' (crystal methamphetamine) epidemic and its ensuing crime and social problems. Be on guard, especially in rural areas. The Big Island's famous pakalolo (marijuana) industry remains highly profitable, and top-quality crops are cultivated mainly in Puna, despite years of government crackdowns and 'green harvests.'

The main scams directed towards visitors involve the sale of 'Hawaiian' souvenirs actually made in China, Korea, the Philippines and so forth. Such items are commonly seen in tourist-trap shops and small souvenir booths at outdoor bazaars and farmers markets. Don't waste your money on cheap fakes. Timeshare sales booths are another scam, often disguised as tourist-information centers. Salespeople will offer enticing deals, from free luau shows to sunset cruises, if you'll just hear their 'no obligation' pitch.

The islands are notorious for break-ins to parked rental cars, whether at a secluded parking area at a trailhead or in a crowded parking lot. Best never to leave anything valuable in your car. Other than break-ins, most hassles are from addicts and alcoholics. Be tuned in to the vibes at beaches after dark and in places where folks hang out to drink, such as public campgrounds. As expected, watch your belongings in hostels.

Overall, violent crime is lower in Hawaii than in most mainland cities. However, there are some pockets of resentment against tourists and transplants. Remote beaches might be deemed 'locals-only' territory, where you'll see groups picnicking under tarps or a crowd of local surfers; don't horn in without a proper introduction. Also be wary about crossing private property, especially when 'Kapu' (No Trespassing) signs are posted. Although theft and violence have decreased, campers should be conscious of their surroundings. People traveling alone, especially women, should be particularly cautious. The less you look like a tourist, the less likely you'll be a target. Choose your park carefully; some are deserted roadside pit stops frequented mostly by troublemakers. Generally, the further you go from population centers, the less chance of being hassled. (Thieves and addicts aren't big on hiking.)

An enormous tsunami hit the Hawaiian shores in 1946, killing 159 people. Hawaii has since installed a warning system, aired through yellow speakers mounted on telephone poles around the islands. It's tested on the first working day each month. The state has had a tsunami every 10 years or so over the past century, killing more people statewide than all other natural disasters combined and causing millions of dollars in property damage. If you're in a low-lying coastal area when one occurs, immediately head for higher ground. The front section of the telephone books show maps of areas susceptible to tsunami and safety evacuation zones.