USA

The fourth-largest city in the US is a sprawling metropolis of highrises, malls and parking lots. Hot, humid and flat, Houston may not be Texas' prime destination, but it has a great museum district and NASA's Johnson Space Center, and Galveston beaches aren't far.

Before the 20th century

Houston got its start in 1836, when brothers Augustus and John Allen set up a trading post on the Buffalo Bayou, a river that now meanders through the heart of the city. The Allens named their new holding Houston in honor of General Sam Houston, who had just defeated the Mexican Army at San Jacinto. The coming of the railroad and the post-Civil War cattle industry boosted the economy in the late 1860s and 1870s, but the real prosperity was still around the corner.

Modern history

It was the 1901 discovery of oil at nearby Spindletop that put Houston on the road to riches. The city's only obstacle to growth was its sweltering summer heat, but beginning in the 1930s, the widespread availability of air conditioning made massive downtown development a reality.

Beginning in the 1950s, downtown underwent wave after wave of skyscraper construction. Hand in hand with the building boom was a craze to raze: dozens of older commercial and residential buildings were leveled and turned into parking lots for the growing army of office workers. NASA's Mission Control Center opened a few miles from Houston in 1963, and six years later the city's name became the first word ever spoken by a human being on the surface of the moon.

Throughout the 1970s, Houston's fortunes continued skyward. When oil reached 40.00 a barrel in 1981, Houston was awash in money as scores of happy Texans got rich quick; four years later, the price of oil plummeted to single digits and Houstonians got poor even faster. Glitzy but empty highrises stood next to giant construction holes that had to be filled back in when the financing ran out.

Recent history

In the 1990s, Houston's economy diversified into medical services and high-tech industries (including aerospace and computer-related fields). The city withstood the collapse of Enron, formerly one of its stellar corporate citizens, but the weather posed a bit more of a challenge. Tropical storm Allison submerged the downtown in 2001 and in September 2005 hurricane Rita sent millions of residents fleeing. A colossal traffic jam ensued (it took as much as five hours to go 100km [60mi]), but the storm missed the city. A month before, hurricane Katrina had devastated New Orleans and more than 250,000 victims of the storm took refuge in Houston. The outpouring of city, state and private aid was remarkable and many of the evacuees chose to relocate to Houston permanently. As fuel prices continue to rise, Houston's lifeblood oil and gas industry is wondering - could this be the next boom everyone prayed for?

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Subtropical and humid, with loads of sun and only about 1270mm (50in) of rain a year. The vicious summers are made more intolerable by the lack of a breeze. When the wind does come you'll know about it; Houston is no stranger to tropical storms and hurricanes. Winters are cool and temperate.

Average weather

• Temperature
• Humidity am/pm
• Rainfall
• Sunshine

Transport

Getting around

The Metro network includes a light-rail system running along Main St from downtown through the Museum District to Reliant Stadium. Much of the 100 bus network is geared to the weekday commute in and out of the downtown area, which means that weekend service to outlying areas like Clear Lake and the Johnson Space Center isn't the best.

By far the best way to get around Houston is with a car. Museum District sights are clustered together so you can ditch your wheels and walk around a bit . Other sights and attractions are far enough that driving is the only convenient way to reach them. Driving is on the right.

Getting there and away

Houston has two airports: George Bush Intercontinental Airport (IAH) is served by major domestic and international airlines; William P Hobby Airport (HOU) is a main hub for Southwest Airlines.

Limited bus service is available to Bush Intercontinental Airport, making taxis and private shuttle buses a better bet. Bus service to Hobby Airport is more reliable. Both airports have car rental agencies.

Greyhound is the major bus carrier, with a web of services in all directions.

Amtrak service is very limited. The chronically late Sunset Limited was derailed by hurricane Katrina in 2005. You can travel between Houston and Los Angeles or New Orleans, but for the time being can't go further east to Orlando.

As a city built around the car, Houston has highways radiating in all directions.

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Don't worry if everyone seems to stay indoors in this town - they're more than likely escaping the mosquitos and the heat rather than each other. Houstonites are a particularly friendly bunch and will be more than happy to steer you away from any trouble spots. As in any city, lock your car and take valuables with you.