Hawaii

If you're looking for super scenery, here it is. Kaua'i's central volcanic peak, Mt Wai'ale'ale, is allegedly the wettest place on earth, and the island is richly green and spectacular - so spectacular that parts of Raiders of the Lost Ark, South Pacific and Jurassic Park were filmed here.

Before the 20th century

Most archaeologists now believe that the first settlers of the Hawaiian Islands came from Marquesas Islands via Southeast Asia around 2000 years ago. Over time, all of the eight major islands were settled and a new 'Hawaiian' culture emerged that was similar to other Polynesian cultures, yet unique in many ways.

However, because the island of Kaua'i was located relatively far from the islands of O'ahu, Maui, Moloka'i and the Big Island of Hawai'i, which are clustered close together, Kaua'i evolved more slowly culturally, socially and politically. It's isolation also staved off invasions from chiefs on other islands. British naval captain James Cook 'discovered' what are now the Hawaiian islands in 1778. He made landfall at Waimea Bay on Kaua'i. Cook was killed on Hawai'i the following year. When news of Cook's landing on the Hawaiian islands got to Europe, explorers, traders, farmers, merchants and whalers all came to see things for themselves. A Hawaiian warrior named Paiea (who became Kamehameha the Great) became mo'i (king) of the islands of Hawai'i, Maui, Moloka'i and O'ahu; however, he could not conquer Kaua'i, due to the stout defence of the island's chief, Kaumuali'i.

The first group of foreign missionaries arrived on the islands in 1820 at a time when the rulers were trying to abolish the ancient kapu religious system. As a consequence of the influx of westerners, diseases began to take hold; it is believed these were responsible for a massive reduction in the indigenous population.

Ko (sugarcane) arrived in Hawaii with the early Polynesian settlers. In 1835 a young Bostonian named William Hooper founded Hawaii's first large-scale sugar farm, Koloa Plantation. By 1850 the number of plantations on the islands had grown to seven. Fewer than four decades later, there were 80 plantations and 'King Sugar' was the backbone of the Hawaiian economy.

Because the Hawaiian population was declining at an alarming rate, the planters had to import cheap labor from outside Hawaii. The Chinese were the first group of contract laborers to be imported in 1851, followed by the Japanese in 1868 and the Portuguese in 1878. This added greatly to the diverse ethnic population that has made Hawaii such a cosmopolitan state.

In 1893 a small group of visiting American marines overthrew the ruling monarch, Queen Lili'uokalani, in a bloodless coup. President Grover Cleveland ordered an investigation into the coup; the report condemned the overthrow and recommended the restoration of the crown, but the US Congress refused to restore the kingdom.

Modern history

A republic was declared 18 months after the overthrow of the kingdom. On July 7, 1898, Hawaii was annexed to the US; on April 30, 1900, it was declared a territory through the Organic Act, much to the disgust of most Hawaiians. In the early part of the 20th century, some members of Congress, did not like the fact that the majority of the population on the islands was made up of non-whites: primarily Hawaiians, Japanese, and Chinese. As the early years of the 20th century went by and Hawaii sugar and dock workers began to form powerful unions, 'Red Scare' and 'Yellow Peril' sentiments swept the country, resulting in a harsh and misinformed conclusion that these unions were in control of the islands and that most of their members were communists. It was not until WWII (1941-45), when so many Hawaii residents of Japanese descent served loyally and valiantly in the all-Japanese 442nd Infantry Battalion and the 100th Combat Regiments, did the tide turn in Hawaii's favor with regard to statehood.

In August 1959, both houses of Congress voted to approve statehood, President Dwight D Eisenhower signed the statehood bill, and Hawaii residents approved statehood in a plebiscite. After WWII tourism began to grow rapidly. Over the next 30 years tourism would continue to grow while the sugar industry waned.

The 'Hawaiian Renaissance' movement emerged in the early 1970s when Protect Kaho'olawe 'Ohana, a small group of native Hawaiians on the island of Moloka'i, began to protest at the use of the tiny island of Kaho'olawe as a practice bombing site by the US Navy. (In 2003 the Navy released the island from practice bombings.) In 1975 the Polynesian Voyaging Society was formed to build a long-distance voyaging canoe, in the manner of the ancients, to prove that the first settlers to the islands were capable of navigating the Pacific without the use of Western technology such as sextants and compasses. When the Hokule'a made its maiden voyage from Hawaii to Tahiti in 1975, it instantly became a symbol of rebirth for Hawaiians, prompting a cultural revival unparalleled in Hawaiian history.

Recent history

Kaua'i featured in the 2002 Disney animated feature Lilo & Stitch. The annual PGA Grand Slam of Golf is played at Po'ipu Bay Golf Course between the winners of the four major grand slam events. Each battles out out over 36 holes for prize money of 1250000. But here's a question: what would Tiger Woods do if he won all four grand slam events? Play against himself? Mind you, he did win the Grand Slam of Golf five years in a row, so...

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

Weatherwise Kaua'i does live up to its rainy reputation, but rainfall varies according to location and season. The South Shore and especially the Westside tend to be dry and sunny, while the North Shore and Eastside see regular showers. The biggest factor is elevation and you'll notice an increase in precipitation as you head mauka (inland).

Mt Wai'ale'ale (5148ft/1570m), almost smack in the middle of the island, is considered the wettest place on earth, averaging 460in (11684mm) of rain annually. Since the island is only 33mi (53km) wide and 25mi (40km) from north to south, it's easy to escape to your preferred climate. Average high temperatures in the capital Lih'ue vary between 29°C (84°F) in August and 25°C (77°F) from January to March.

Seasonally, winter means guaranteed rain, particularly on the North Shore, where flooding is a fact of life. But, except during storms, sunny spells and balmy temperatures ease the rainy-day blues. Remember, no rain, no rainbows!

Transport

Getting there and away

If you're coming to Kaua'i, then chances are you'll be coming by plane. All international and most domestic flights arrive at Honolulu International Airport, with connections to Lihu'e Airport (246 1448; www.hawaii.gov/dot/airports/kauai/lih; visitor hotline 06:30-21:00; connections take about 25min. From the mainland, you can catch flights from many airports, including, Las Vegas McCarran International Airport; Los Angeles International Airport; New York JFK International Airport; Washington Dulles International Airport; and Chicago O'Hare International Airport. Three airlines service Lihu'e Airport directly: American Airlines (www.aa.com), United Airlines (www.ual.com) and US Airways (www.usairways.com). Many of the big name airlines, including Air Canada, Qantas and China airlines, fly directly to Honolulu.

If you're island-hopping there are four carriers that service the state: Aloha Airlines (www.alohaairlines.com); go! (www.iflygo.com); Hawaiian Airlines (www.hawaiianair.com) and Island Air (www.islandair.com)

Cruise ships - which are becoming more popular around the islands - include Holland America Cruise Line (www.hollandamerica.com), Princess Cruises (www.princess.com) and Norwegian Cruise Line (www.ncl.com). An interisland ferry service (www.hawaiisuperferry) is due to start routes to most of the islands, including Kaua'i. At the time of research it had yet to commence service, but is expected to start in summer 2007.

Getting around

Kaua'i is not a big island; however, it would be impractical to just use your hiking boots! Most visitors end up hiring a car. The minimum age for driving a car is 18, but most rental agencies only hire out to people aged over 25. However, Thrifty Car Rental will hire out to those over 21. Other car rental agencies include Alamo (www.alamo.com), Avis (www.avis.com) and Budget (www.budget.com). Traffic congestion can be a problem, particularly at peak times.

You can hire motorcycles or mopeds, but these are not common and can actually be more expensive than hiring a car.

Cycling is an option but there are a number of things to think about before you make the cycling decision: the hilly terrain, the weather (cycling on Kaua'i in the rain may sound romantic, but...), and a lack of bicycle lanes on the roads. However, if you must cycle, you can bring your own or hire one at Hanalei or Po'ipu.

Public transport on Kaua'i is pretty much limited to buses, but with limited routes and times (not to mention exact-fare only drivers) you should use them only if you have to. The country bus service is Kaua'i Bus (www.kauai.gov).

Health & Legal Requirements

Dangers and annoyances

Since the 1990s the entire state has been coping with a rampant 'ice' (crystal methamphetamine) epidemic and its ensuing crime and social problems. Be on guard for addicts, especially in rural areas. Kaua'i's thriving pakalolo (marijuana) industry remains highly profitable, despite years of government crackdowns.

During heavy rains, rivers overflow and can threaten safety if you are hiking. Never try to ford a river that is high. Cars are also affected by flooding as North Shore bridges are closed if they are flooded during storms. If you are stuck on one side, you will have no choice but to wait it out.

Scams are also a concern; many directed towards visitors involve the sale of 'Hawaiian' souvenirs actually made in China, Korea, the Philippines and so forth. Such items are commonly seen in tourist-trap shops and small souvenir booths at outdoor bazaars and farmers markets. Don't waste your money on cheap fakes. Timeshare sales booths are another scam, often disguised as tourist-information centers. Salespeople will offer enticing deals, from free luau shows to sunset cruises, if you'll just hear their 'no obligation' pitch.

Like all the Hawaiian islands, Kaua'i is notorious for break-ins to parked rental cars, whether at a secluded parking area at a trailhead or in a crowded parking lot. Never leave anything valuable in your car. Other than break-ins, most hassles are from addicts and alcoholics. Be tuned in to the vibes at beaches after dark and in places where folks hang out to drink, such as public campgrounds.

The Hawaiian Islands have had a tsunami every 10 years or so over the past century, killing more people statewide than all other natural disasters combined and causing millions of dollars in property damage. If you're in a low-lying coastal area when one occurs, immediately head for higher ground. The front section of the telephone books show maps of areas susceptible to tsunami and safety evacuation zones.