overview

As the gateway city to southern Texas, modern San Antonio remains as much vaquero (cowboy) as it is buckaroo. Spanish saludos are just as likely to greet your ears as the ubiquitous 'Howdy' when you're wandering one of the State's most stroll-worthy downtown areas. Tex + Mex = kick back and enjoy.

history & culture

Before the 20th century

San Antonio was established as a Spanish military garrison in 1718, though Europeans had been pestering the local Indian tribes since 1691. The original settlement along San Pedro Creek was moved in 1724 to what's now downtown San Antonio. Known originally as the Misión San Antonio de Valero, it was later renamed the Alamo. During the 1810-1821 Mexican Revolution, common interests in securing freedom from Spain had Americans fighting alongside Mexicans in several key battles. At the war's end though, Texas became a Mexican state and 3500 American settlers quickly moved into the area.

After the seven month Texas War for Independence from Mexico (1835-1836), San Antonio boomed as a cattle town. European migrants, including vast numbers of Germans and Czechs, began settling in the area. In 1879, Fort Sam Houston was established by the US Army.

Modern history

The city's subsequent growth was largely due to military presence: Fort Sam was joined by Kelly Air Force base in 1917, followed by Lackland, Randolph and Brooks Air Force bases. In 1921, floods destroyed downtown San Antonio, drowning as many as 50 people. As a result, the Olmos Dam was constructed to handle overflow. A river beautification scheme was hatched about the same time and by 1941 the Riverwalk was taking shape. The first hotel went up along the walk in 1962 and development took off from there; new hotels are still being built.

Recent history

Today, the city's easygoing atmosphere can't hide the fact that it's a major player in the medical/biotechnology industry, which accounts for 15% of its economy. The military continues to have a strong presence, but it is tourism that is SA's bread and butter. Almost 23 million people visit annually and there are more than 33,000 hotel rooms in the metropolitan area. You won't be alone when you visit, but at least you should be able to find a room.

where to stay

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where to eat

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what to do

Top Attractions

Witte Museum
Brackenridge Park
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Alamo
Downtown
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A Perfect Day

By Lisa Dunford

A sunny 62°F (17°C) December day is just the time for a crisp walk from the Inn on the River. It's hard not to feel grateful for the peace of the commercial kitsch-free southern stretch of the San Antonio River. From there I head to Madhatters Café for a late brunch, where a hint of smoky chipotle pepper gives the eggs benedict a kick. And who can resist the homemade cinnamon scones?

On the King William District holiday home tour I get to experience the elaborate façades of the beautiful old houses of the area festooned with green and red, and even peak inside the lives of these fabulous grand dames.

Back on the restauranted side of the Riverwalk that afternoon, a prickly pear margarita and guacamole made tableside call from Boudrou's Texas Bistro. We just beat the rush. Dinner reservation slots are all booked up but that's ok, friends and I have made our own arrangements - dinner and a jazz show at Delores del Rio. The wall-to-wall murals are as creative as the riffs coming from the trio.

Walking back to the inn, I'm again mesmerized by the thousands of Christmas lights strung up, around, and over the Riverwalk. Cool weather, colorful lights - this just might be the best time of year.

when to go

San Antonio has a semi-tropical climate that rarely strays from the agreeable. Mid-summer through September is the most humid period, but even the August heat spells aren't half as bad as you'd think. Humidity levels follow a year-round pattern of high in the mornings and low in the afternoons. The hottest summer's day seldom tops 95°F (35°C), and winter temperatures usually drop no lower than 40°F (5°C). Autumn and spring are the optimum times to visit.

Average weather

Average temperature in San Antonio
Average rainfall in San Antonio

money & costs

Main Currency


Currency: US Dollar (USD)
Symbol: US$

getting around

Transport

Getting there and away

San Antonio International Airport (SAT) has flights from within Texas and from many destinations across the rest of the US and Mexico. The airport is about 16km (10mi) north of downtown, just north of the intersection of Loop 410 and Hwy 281. A city bus (very slow), shuttle companies and taxis run between the airport and the city. Many of the larger downtown hotels have free shuttles for their guests.

Amtrak trains link San Antonio to Los Angeles, Tucson, Palm Springs, El Paso and New Orleans on the Sunset Limited and to Chicago via Austin, Dallas, Little Rock, St Louis and more on the Texas Eagle.

Buses arrive just north of downtown, with regular daily services to and from Austin, Dallas, Galveston, Houston and New Orleans.

Getting around

VIA (www.viainfo.net) is San Antonio's public bus and tourist-oriented streetcar network. VIA's Downtown Information Center is at 560 E Houston There are also several coach tour operators, with itineraries ranging from basic city orientation to full day outings both in and out of town.

Downtown is a complex maze of one-way streets that change direction at will. In the same spirit of perversity, relentless traffic cops will ticket and tow in the time it takes to ask for directions. If you rent a car and are staying downtown, park it at your hotel and walk. Taxis wait at most major downtown hotels, the Greyhound and Amtrak stations and the airport.

Mountain bikes are available for rent downtown, complete with maps, helmets and locks - some companies will even include free delivery to any address in San Antonio.

fast facts

Full name San Antonio
Currency US Dollar, USD (US$)
Population 1296682
Languages Spanish (other)
English (essential)
Native American languages (other)
Time zone(s) GMT/UTC: -6

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