USA

Thirty years ago, most roads in this high-altitude town were unpaved and the only visitors were hippies and artists who came to paint the desert landscape in cruisy contemplation. These days, Santa Fe ranks among the top tourist destinations in the USA.

Before the 20th century

The Indian, Hispanic and Anglo cultures that are largely responsible for Santa Fe's uniqueness haven't always existed as harmoniously as they do today. In 1610 the Spanish established Santa Fe as the capital of Nuevo Mexico and began the process of converting the area's Pueblo Indians to Catholicism. The governor of the colony, Pedro de Peralta, built the Palace of the Governors to house newcomers, mostly Franciscan friars and military personnel. From there, settlers fanned out, farming and erecting churches by using the labour of subjugated Indians.

Indian religious ceremonies were prohibited and the missionaries dealt severely with resistors. Indian leaders were flogged, enslaved or hanged and revolts were common. The San Juan leader, Popé, organised widespread resistance from a hide-out in the Taos Pueblo. In August 1680, Indians began killing Spanish priests and settlers and burning churches. Terrified settlers took refuge inside the palace and were eventually driven 482km (300mi) away to what is now Juárez, Mexico. The Indians took over Santa Fe, holding on until 1692 when Spanish troops led by Diego de Vargas recaptured the city. Traditional Indian practices were tolerated and the region flowered in relative peace throughout the 18th century.

Spain granted independence to Mexico in 1821. Led by the entrepreneurial trapper and trader William Becknell, American merchants and settlers started arriving in wagonloads. In 1846, the USA declared war on Mexico and, after the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo was signed in 1848, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California became property of the US. Settlers from the east flocked to New Mexico, especially after it was declared a US territory in 1851, and again when the railroad arrived in 1879.

Modern history

In 1912, New Mexico became the 47th state in the union, and Santa Fe changed from being a territorial to a state capital. Santa Fe's reputation as an art mecca has early roots. Painters intent on capturing the ethereal essence of the area arrived in the 1920s and took up residence along Canyon Road, which is still the heart of the local art scene. A scientific community descended on the area in 1943, establishing a lab at Los Alamos for developing the first atomic bomb. At first the community, 56km (35mi) northwest of Santa Fe, was wholly secret, but restrictions were relaxed at the end of WWII and in 1957 the city was opened to the public. The renowned art scene and the opening of Taos Ski Valley brought tourists to the area, and throughout the 1960s and '70s alternative lifestylers arrived in droves.

Recent history

These days, Santa Fe faces the sorts of dilemmas that characterise life in New Mexico: overdevelopment, the ramifications of the nuclear age, the allocation and preservation of water and problems arising from the state's economic and cultural diversity.

Santa Fe and Taos rank among the top tourist destinations in the country. Consequently Hispanic and Native American who have called the area home for generations - sometimes hundreds of generations - find themselves confronting wave after wave of newcomers and tourists. The ensuing sociopolitical problems are complex and will require a thoughtful approach.

Top Accommodation

Top Restaurants

At an altitude of 2133m (7000ft), Santa Fe is known for its clear light and clean air and indeed it has very few overcast days. July and August tend to be the wettest months, while December to March sees the heaviest snow of the year.

Average weather

• Temperature
• Humidity am/pm
• Rainfall
• Sunshine

Transport

Getting around

Santa Fe is fairly compact and getting around poses few problems. The city's buses are run on natural gas. The depot is on Sheridan Ave between Palace and Marcy Aves. Cabs provide an efficient town-wide service.

Getting there and away

There are daily flights to Santa Fe from Denver, and a daily shuttle service from Albuquerque International Sunport. Greyhound buses connect through Albuquerque and Taos. Amtrak's Southwest Chief service stops at Lamy; shuttles continue the 29km (18mi) to Santa Fe. If you're driving, it's 50min between Albuquerque and Santa Fe on I-25, or you can take one of two scenic routes. The Turquoise Trail hugs the east side of the Sandia Mountains and takes about 90min. Once littered with silver, gold, turquoise and coal mines, today it is a barren high desert landscape with pockets of craftshops, galleries and artisans' studios. The other, longer route is through the Jemez Mountains to Los Alamos, then south on Hwy 84/285. The latter makes a great day trip.