If civic politics is the American religion, then Washington DC is the nation's holy city. White houses, capital and pentagonal buildings, supreme courts - these monumental Lego shrines are rarefied with real power. A patriotic combination of history and histrionics: BYO wiretap.
Before the 20th century
The US Congress met in a variety of cities - Philadelphia, New York and Princeton among them - before the fledgling republic was ready to commit to a permanent seat of government. Congress chose the Potomac as a natural midpoint that would satisfy both northern and southern states (whose cultural and political differences were apparent well before the Civil War of 1861-1865). This spot had the added benefit of being across the river from George Washington's home in Mount Vernon.
Folks started referring to it as 'the city of Washington' around 1791 and the name stuck. Maryland and Virginia agreed to cede land to create the District of Columbia (named for Christopher Columbus), and an area 'ten miles square' (26 sq km) was laid out by African-American mathematician Benjamin Banneker and surveyor Andrew Ellicott. French engineer Pierre Charles L'Enfant was hired to design the city and though his elegant plan was widely admired, he quickly ran afoul of local politics. After L'Enfant was fired, Banneker continued to carry out L'Enfant's plans.
Work started on the ornate Capitol in 1793, but it was barely complete when British troops torched it in the War of 1812. Though the Capitol was eventually rebuilt, the city entered a slump from which it wouldn't recover for decades. A dispirited vote to abandon the capital lost by only nine votes. Charles Dickens visited and dismissed DC as 'the City of Magnificent Distances', complaining about 'spacious avenues that begin in nothing and lead nowhere; streets, milelong, that only want houses, roads, and inhabitants; public buildings that need but a public'.
The Civil War focused attention on Washington, bringing bivouacs, temporary hospitals and armies to its outskirts. The war's chaos and expense led Washingtonians to wonder whether construction of the elaborate Capitol dome might not be suspended. President Lincoln responded, 'If people see the Capitol going on, it is a sign we intend the Union shall go on.' In the war's aftermath, the Great Emancipator was assassinated in Ford's Theater (a memorial flag remains draped over the theatre box shrine today) and the role of the US capital changed from state-led administration to centralised leadership.
The town's ailing infrastructure was overhauled in the 1870s by territorial governor Alexander 'Boss' Shepherd, whose extravagant use of federal funds and penchant for steamrolling anything in his way led to a crackdown by Congress that robbed DC of self-government for another 100 years. For the citizenry, it was a high price to pay for a city beginning to look like it might fulfil L'Enfant's original vision of a world-class capital.
Modern history
A beautification plan at the start of the 20th century added most of the landscaping, parks, and monuments for which Washington is now well known. Nevertheless, until recently Washington suffered from its image as a Southern backwater. The Kennedy Center, established as a 'living memorial' to JFK, did much to bring cosmopolitan culture to the place.
The '90s saw Washington fall into a disarray from which recovery was slow. Mayor Marion Barry was videotaped smoking crack and the city was nicknamed the 'Murder Capital' as gang warfare became common on the streets. However, under the more low-key Mayor Williams, elected in 1999, Washington began to pull out of its decline and return to stability, assisted by nationwide boom times.
Recent history
On September 11, 2001, terrorists attacked Washington, flying a hijacked United Airlines aircraft into the Pentagon, causing significant damage and killing all aboard the plane. A further plane crash-landed near Shanksville, Pennsylvania; it too was intended to hit a Washington target. On the same day two hijacked planes destroyed New York's twin towers, killing thousands of people. The terrorist attacks were the worst ever on US soil.
With the election of Barack Obama in 2008, Washington has gained a bit of cool cachet - New Yorkers are coming here now, instead of the other way around! President Obama's habit of playing pick-up basketball and patronizing local restaurants has folks wondering if he's become that rarest of breeds: a president who doesn't just live in Washington, but is also a Washingtonian.
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Korean War Veterans Memorial
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A Perfect Day
By Ryan Ver Berkmoes
For me a visit to DC almost always starts and ends on the Mall. It's all here really and first-time visitors are regularly blown away when all its iconic places, that are almost clichés, are seen up close. The Capitol is a magnificent building; take a moment to study the play of light on the columns. Heading west past the parade of Smithsonians, I'd be sure to stop in at the East Building of the National Gallery (IM Pei's masterpiece is still fresh three decades later; there's a great cafe on the skylit lower level). Then I'd visit the National Air and Space Museum (Apollo 11, need I say more) followed by the National Museum of American History (sort of like the nation's attic of treasures). Next it's a visit to the Washington Monument, which looks bigger in person, and a glance at the fortified White House to the north. The huge new World War II memorial stands at the entrance to the reflecting pools; sadly it's a miscue and doesn't even begin to capture the event. Circling north, I'd pause at what is possibly the most eloquent war commemoration anywhere, the Vietnam Veterans Memorial. After this sombre pause, I'd head to the Lincoln Memorial to uplift my spirits by reading the words of this most humane and visionary of leaders. By now I'm ready for a cocktail. If the weather allows, one of the many outdoor cafes in Dupont Circle (17th St NW rarely disappoints) will fit the bill nicely. Suitably refreshed, I'd stroll about looking for a restaurant from the neighbourhood's countless choices. A nightcap amid the woody and eclectic charms of the Tabard Inn is the perfect way to end the day.
DC's springs (April to May) and falls (September to October) are mild and inviting. Summer can be extremely hot and humid, especially in July and August. Winters can be harsh, with temperatures hovering around freezing and snow storms sometimes shutting down the city, especially in January.
Average weather
Main Currency
Currency: US Dollar (USD)
Symbol: US$
Transport
Getting around
DC has some of the nation's worst traffic congestion so driving can be a teeth-gritting experience; cycling and walking are better ways to get around.
DC's Metrobus system efficiently services the city and surrounding suburbs, as does the sleek Metrorail. In addition to Metro, two commuter train systems serve downtown DC from the Maryland and Virginia suburbs, but these are mainly commuter lines designed around the working week.
There is no shortage of cabs in DC; Diamond, Yellow Cab and Capitol Cab are the major companies.
Getting there and away
DC is serviced by three major airports: Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport (DCA), Baltimore-Washington International Airport (BWI) and Washington Dulles International Airport (IAD). Amtrak trains will get you to DC - Union Station is Amtrak's 'flagship' station, and has some great travel resources to offer visitors. Bus-wise, Greyhound and Peter Pan will also get you there without fuss.
Health & Legal Requirements
Dangers and annoyances
DC has a reputation for violent crimes, but it is worth noting the homicide rate has dropped considerably from the bad old days of the '80s and late '90s. Even then, violent crime was mainly localized, and tourists were not in much danger of deadly assault. With that said, you need to be cautious if you're walking on your own late at night, especially in nightlife hotspots like U Street and Adams-Morgan, where lonely side streets are popular hunting grounds for muggers. People are held up at night in areas as posh as Woodley Park. If you are with other people, you probably won't be a target. If you're on your own after the bars shut down, please consider taking a cab. If you are held up, just hand everything over.
fast facts
| Full name | Washington DC |
|---|---|
| Currency | US Dollar, USD (US$) |
| Population | 600000 |
| Languages |
English (essential) Native American languages (other) Spanish (other) |
| Time zone(s) | GMT/UTC: -5 |
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