In search of the hidden Caribbean

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  Friendship Bay, Bequia

The tiny landing strip on Bequia is an experience to sharpen the senses. The only way of getting to the island is with SVG Airways, which runs two little charter flights a day. But it’s the lack of an international airport that has shaped the character of Bequia and ensured the preservation of this island’s old-fashioned charms.

There are certainly no all-inclusive hotels or resorts. 

This means there are never too many foreigners on the island at one time so locals are always pleased to see you and the people here are genuine and undemanding. There is no visible crime or hustling as associated with some other Caribbean destinations. Bequia is safe and you are free to walk day and night anywhere on the island.

The second largest of the eight islands that compose the small nation of St Vincent and The Grenadines, Bequia is regarded by locals as the even-quieter sister island to the more famous Mustique. Bequia has a local community numbering approximately 6,000 souls and a thriving little town at Port Elizabeth; this colourful atmosphere contrasts sharply with the manicured and private scene on Mustique.



“What would you like to do first?” Patrick Hepburn, our driver and manager of Dragonfly Villa at Lower Bay, is keen to ask, to ensure he gives us a good first impression of the island. The usual procedure of checking into accommodation and meeting staff is bypassed for a trip straight to the beach. Patrick has brought towels and a hamper of iced drinks to the delight of my chirping team in the back seat. 



Actually he’s brought everything you’d need to survive on the beach all week. Fold up beach beds, umbrella for Virgin flight-white skin and a hamper of fresh fruit. Do we need to check in at all? Apparently not. Patrick is taking our luggage to the house for the maid to unpack. 

Lower Bay is a half-mile crescent of clean white sand. This afternoon it’s all ours to share with an old Rastafarian fisherman and his children. On a small promontary overlooking Lower Bay to one side and Princess Margaret Beach to the other is The Retreat.

The house sleeps six and will provide a chef if required. From the house, you can walk to either of the Grenadines' finest beaches in less than a minute.

 Alternatively, on the pretty white sand of Friendship Beach you’ll find a comfortable bedroom waiting at the Friendship Bay Hotel. There you can enjoy delicious cocktails in swinging bar seats suspended on ropes from the ceiling. Two newly refurbished cottages offer cooling stone-inlaid plunge pools with views of the wild coastal islands.

Bequia's best beaches

Further down the beach The Bequia Beach Hotel has immaculate new rooms right on the sand and a good dinner of roast lamb chops, lobster or grilled Snapper can be had at its Blue Tropic restaurant. Also buzzing right now, the famous Firefly Hotel on Mustique has recently opened their new venture Firefly Bequia - they have their own beach and an excellent pool with service and food at the high standard you'd expect.



If you find yourself on Princess Margaret Beach for the day don’t miss the tasty bar lunch at Jack's. Healthy options include feta salad and chicken in a basket. In the afternoon you might want to go for a massage at Jack’s spa before joining the cocktail drinkers congregating to watch the sun setting into the sea. From their private jetty you can catch a water taxi into the harbour for dinner.



Port Elizabeth has the largest deep-water natural harbour anywhere in the Eastern Caribbean making it a favourite destination for yachties. Bequia has geared up to receive its visitors with every possible restaurant option imaginable. At night, the waters of the harbour reflect the fairy lights of French, Italian, and Mexican restaurants alongside those of the delicious West Indian fusion kitchen of the harbour’s favourite - Devils Table. Each night of the week one of these restaurants takes it in turn to showcase the music of a local band. These vary from the cover tunes you might expect to find in other tourist spots to the locally composed Country Western tunes of the Country Relatives. 



Certainly the island has plenty of local life to entertain but total seclusion is only a short bounce away to the island’s north coast. Bequia is just seven miles long and a car journey tip to toe will take no longer than 20 minutes. From the harbour, a 10-minute drive in rented jeep or taxi will take you to the cool breezes of the quiet north coast where Spring Bay, Ravine Bay or Hope Bay provide almost guaranteed privacy.

By Jolyon Connell, founder of The Week and proud owner of a home on Bequia 


Location: Saint Vincent & the Grenadines