A slice of Sicily in style

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  Verdura, Sicily

  © Rocco Forte Collection

Sat on the south-west coast of Sicily, between the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento and the fishing town of Sciacca, Rocco Forte’s latest hotel seems one of his most ambitious to date, set on 570 acres and breaking out of the company’s city hotel mould to open its first resort. And where better to do so than Sicily, with orange and olive trees, mountains and the glistening Med as a backdrop.

The backdrop is more for the pleasure of golfers though, as while the hotel may well boast a 1.8km coastline setting, that is mostly reserved for the brilliant links course – an 18-hole one designed by Kyle Phillips, as well as another 18-hole and a nine-hole course across the property. Other pluses for the golfers include impressive pro shop, great Torre bar (where everyone, not just golfers, can gather for evening entertainment and local musicians), typical Sicilian trattoria, Liola and La Gelateria, all at La Piazzetta.

This is a resort aimed squarely at golfers and anyone else who comes along seems to be a bonus - the spa is impressive on paper but I don’t think it will be ranking as one of Europe’s best just yet. There is however a 25-metre indoor pool, hammam, 11 treatment rooms, hair salon, gym with impressive array of Technogym equipment and healthy café – as well as specialist therapies like the Grapevine body treatment, drawing on Sicily’s wine heritage. The four outdoor thalassotherapy pools are fantastic, with fantastic views of the hills beyond.

The resort’s main pool is also brilliantly huge and stylishly designed at the central heart of the resort, with loungers scattered on the lawns down to the sea and a light café. The resort is so large that bikes have been laid on free for guests to use, but staff will also ferry you around in golf buggies and there are six tennis courts hidden away on the resort too.

The atmosphere is very chilled and in keeping with the apparent remoteness of the resort. It’s a place that once you came to, you might feel reluctant to leave; but a trip to the nearby temples of Agrigento is stunning and lunch and meandering around the shops of Sciacca is a lovely afternoon diversion. The skies may have been overcast on my March visit, but on a cloudy Sicily day, the temples of Agrigento only seemed more striking and dramatic, especially the 2,500-year old Temple of Concordia.

The surroundings are always influential on designer Olga Polizzi and of her vision for the resort, Polizzi says, “I found Sicily hard, raw and rugged and this was reflected in the square, strong forms we used and the hot colours” and the resort is indeed pared down. And square. There were however beautiful flourishes such as mosaic accent walls in some of the public areas and bold colour flashes in the rooms, but for me, it felt a little impersonal and some elements seemed uncomfortable and the low bed didn’t feel luxurious at all. There was a huge terrace with my suite though, complete with hammock and dining area and the staff were very warm, even if the resort wasn’t on my March visit.

The huge plot – villas for sale will eventually also be built - was formerly agricultural land of the revered jewellery house Verdura which has its origins in Sicily but is known the world over for its striking pieces beloved by the likes of Coco Chanel and Princess Diana. Such aristocratic connections suit Sir Rocco Forte, the grandest of hoteliers, who accompanied me and a bunch of journalists for a media weekend to show off his newest, seemingly proudest and largest hotel project.

He believes there is nothing quite like it on the island or in the Med. And who am I to question? Expect to see a roster of famed faces photographed drifting in and out of the resort in the pages of the nationals and glossies this summer. The resort may have opened finally last year but this looks set to be its real moment in the sun.

Location: Sicily