Opera and opulence in Milan

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  La Scala, Milan

The opera season is in full swing in Milan at La Scala and there are few finer experiences in the city, other than its famed fashion weeks of course.

As part of the season and to celebrate the 40th anniversary of his debut at La Scala, Placido Domingo will also appear at La Scala, performing the role of Siegmund in the complete first act of Die Walküre.

Teatro alla Scala, as it is fully known, was designed by neoclassical architect Giuseppe Piermarini and opened in 1778. Its opulent red and gold interior is a contrast to its mundane halls and public areas but that’s half the treat when you first walk in.

The recent performance of Verdi’s Requiem I witnessed was an incredible and mesmerising feast of sound and sight. To be able to see the intricacies of the orchestra and the 100-strong choir all packed onto the stage was magical – they may have looked like ants from my box but were as loud as elephants, and of course infinitely more tuneful.

For a hotel with sheer proximity to the opera house, it would have to be the Townhouse Galleria, located in the city’s landmark Galleria Vittorio Emanuelle, a boutique hotel which has one of the world’s only official seven-star ratings and rooms looking over the Galleria (just a minute’s stroll across the square to La Scala).

More than a mere shopping arcade, Galleria Vittorio Emanuelle is a real social heart for the Milanese, a grand affair dripping in history with soaring ceilings and antique-looking stores such as a flagship Prada.

For an old-style classic hotel that would come anywhere near Vittorio Emanuelle’s levels of grandeur, the place to check into is Hotel Principe di Savoia, a little away from the fray of Milan’s central tourist and shopping heart. The hotel has been in the throes of modernisation - but nothing so modern as to scare the horses. It now has one of the best hotel bars in town, after receiving a makeover by Thierry Despont. The bar is now a place more fitting for the well-dressed younger guests who sit under its incredible new ceiling and listen to DJs as they enjoy cocktails and aperitivos.

Despont has also updated the lobby to give it a fresh new lounge – an area which was sadly lacking before and now creates a wonderful atmosphere, with ‘see-and-be-seen’ tea or coffee drinking the order of the day. The other areas of reception, hallways and concierge seem to have escaped modernisation and are as traditional as they come. Acanto completes the social area, offering fine Italian fare in a relaxed and pretty restaurant with impeccable service.

Many of the suites have also been made over – including the stunning Principe Suites. Mine was divine, with deep red fabrics, including acres of taffeta drapes, set against soothing creams. The hotel has even won awards for its bathrooms; the glass-topped fuschia sink and beautiful mosaic wall in my shower were complemented by a huge Agape tub and Aqua di Parma goodies.

With all this work and having seen the spa at the sister property The Dorchester in London, it may be time to spruce up the Savoia’s spa, as whilst offering great treatments and having a big space on the top floor, it’s all looking a little dated up there, but you cannot deny the brilliance of having a great rooftop pool and comprehensive gym (much appreciated by David Beckham when he lived at the hotel).

www.hotelprincipedisavoia.com

By April Hutchinson

Location: Milan