Boutique bliss in the heart of Provence

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  Hotel Crillon Le Brave, Provence

A charming member of Relais & Chateaux, Hotel Crillon Le Brave was founded by Canadian Peter Chittick who stumbled across the village and decided to start the hotel with just 11 rooms. Since then, it has crept its way through seven buildings in the village of the same name in the past 21 years.

Hidden away amongst the village's nooks and crannies, cobbled streets, shady gardens, secret corners and creaky corridors are a labyrinth of 32 very individual rooms and suites at the hotel and terraces which tumble their way down the hillside.

The village of Crillon Le Brave has Roman origins, but its modern history really got going in the 14th-century. Chittick was involved with Hotel du Vin and the company's founder Robin Hutson joined the merry Crillon Le BRave band as an investor and his touch is increasingly evident in the hotel.

The Provence hotel is run by another hotel partner Patrick Gaillard and his wife Andrea and with the help of Robin's interior designer wife, Patrick and Andrea are in the process of modernizing the decor in the rooms to a more 'country-chic', rather than 'country-hick' style, but the old-style decor - as it was in our room, number 26 - is perfectly pretty and very traditional.

Andrea showed me some of the rooms with the newer-style bedding, paintwork and soft furnishings and the difference is clear, but it was a bit like a Farrow & Ball advert - if they did a ‚'Provence look', the newly decorated rooms would be it. In the rush to 'chuck out the chintz', I hope they don't throw away too much of the local charm.

Room 26 was fantastically large, with lounge, TV, DVD player, Bose sound system, WiFi (with laptops available from reception) and a little antique desk, as well as spacious bedroom and bathroom with L'Occitane amenities (of course) and small outdoor seating area all with breathtaking views of the Provence countryside and Mont Ventoux, which at 1,912m, is known as the Giant of Provence‚ slumbering away in the distance.

One of the feature suites - highly recommended for those die-hard romantics among you - is room 33, or the La Tour suite, where an achingly lovely open-plan lounge leads you into a stunning view which can also be enjoyed side-by-side from the two rolltop baths with an antique champagne cooler table between them. Quite unique, the baths and the whole suite - which also includes a bedroom upstairs - are indicative of the love, thoughtfulness and creativity which Patrick, Andrea and the whole team invest in this lovely hotel, which is more like a friend's home tucked away in the countryside than a hotel.

Each time the winter rolls around, it seems there is a new project to keep Patrick and Andrea busy (the hotel closes at the end of November and Andrea says it is "very" quiet in town in winter) and this year will be no different, with plans already afoot to create what promise to be two incredible suites in some of the former lounges, which are no longer needed given the brand new bar and restaurant area which opened in time for the 2010 season.

Andrea says they are also considering expanding the spa a little - at the moment, the 'spa' is a very sweet, stone-floored treatment nook near the pool using Cowshed products and the massage I had was deeply relaxing; facials are available too. There is certainly a bit of space nearby and it makes sense to expand the spa, as what could be better after a day out in the heat of Provence walking or cycling than a full treatment list of goodies.

Andrea says it has been her goal to bring the average age down a little and spread the guest profile, as the hotel was always loved by slightly older French and British visitors in the past, now families and younger couples from all over the place seem to descend here. But I wouldn't have wanted any more kids around the pool than there were during my weekend, as the setting is deeply relaxing otherwise and the pool terrace too small for kids to be causing too much pool-type havoc. A few more sun parasols would also have helped shield the sun-shy like me from the baking heat.

Luckily, there are a few shady alcoves when it comes to having lunch around the pool, which for me consisted of amazing pomme frites, salads and sandwiches, along with my regular dose of rose. I'm no wine expect, but if you are, then this is absolutely the place for you. Sommelier Cedric Demeneix can suggest the best wines for dinner at the hotel - or advise on the best vineyards to visit, whether a local winemaker, or 'garagiste', or the big guns in Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner can all now be enjoyed at the Grange Bar, the hotel's brand new terrace bar and restaurant, a fantastic environment with friendly and thoughtful service and dishes by the hotel's new chef, Laurent Wellecam who joined in May.

I had no idea the Grange Bar was a new addition, given its seamless meshing into the rest of the buildings and as it made from traditional Crillon stone and decorated in a simple style with flashes of floral soft furnishings, it all works perfectly. Breakfast is served up buffet-style along the bar, consisting of eggs from a cute cupboard ready to be self-boiled (individual old egg timers provided for guests), fantastic fresh fruits and yoghurts and delicious pastry basket, as well as the central tables, where Le Figaro sits next to The Daily Telegraph, fresh juice, ham and cheese.

Should we have wanted to play, there was a cute little boules court in the hotel to while away the hours, a tennis court nearby, or bikes are available for guests to explore the local area. The nearest 'big' town is Bedoin, an hour's walk if you fancy it but some of the best places to visit (exploring with a car is what most people other than me will find themselves doing) include Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, known as the antiques capital of Provence.

We managed a bit of an antiques hunt ourselves, as on the Sunday morning we left the hotel for a stroll after breakfast and discovered the village flea market in full flow in the little town square, with everything from vintage Louis Vuitton bags, to wonderful gilt mirrors, china and silverware, antique furniture, old posters, Seventies paraphernalia and funny little toys on display - plenty of unique bargains could have been gathered if we had the French skills and the luggage space to do so. As we were travelling on Eurostar's direct summer service to and from Avignon, we want to keep luggage on the minimal side.

The town square consists of little more than the Mairie and a statue of Le Brave Crillon, a bold French general of the 16th century whose family gave their name to the famed Hotel de Crillon in Paris (no relative to this little bolthole though). There isn't much else in the village, save for some lovely little houses, a cafe-bar next to the hotel, a restaurant on the other side and the wonderful old church, with stunning views from its elevation atop the village. But with all the hotel's nooks to explore, a good book, great food and wine, spa treatments and the pool terrace with amazing views, what more could you ask for?

Stays at Hotel Crillon le Brave start from around £200 per room per night (room-only). Check for details of special wine harvest and cooking weekend.

Hotel Crillon Le Brave, Place de l'eglise 84410, Crillon Le Brave, France. Tel: +33 490 65 61 61, www.crillonlebrave.com

Eurostar's weekly St Pancras London to Avignon direct service runs on Saturdays throughout the summer (calling at Ashford International) and takes about six hours, with returns from £109. Non-Saturday returns are on TGV from Avignon to Paris Gare du Lyon and changing to Eurostar from Gare du Nord for the London journey, www.eurostar.com

By April Hutchinson

Location: Provence